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hey 451mopar - thanks and yes to pictures
Hey 451, Some pictures would be awesome. I'm especially interested in the frame you built for the cell. What was your reason for doing that? It sounds like a great idea for me because were the rear tabs for the cell are located there are factory holes with plugs in the trunk floor. If I did the frame thing it would take care of that. This is a permanent installation. My long term plan is to race the car with a little street duty so the cell taking up the trunk space isn't an issue. This car will never be my daily driver.
What is the reason for the loops in the vent line? Is that neccessary if you don't use the ball check valve, just so any fuel isn't as likely to "slosh out"? Because I've already got a 90' fitting I was just going to plumb the vent with braided line, but it sounds like you did something very different. I actually saw a car in Car Craft that did the loop thing with hard line like you described and I was wondering what the reason for that was. Also, I'm glad you mentioned about the stock fuel gauge not working well with the sender. I spoke with Triangle about senders and they said the Chrysler type senders they had been selling had major problems so they completely stopped selling them. I bought the tank off a friend and it has the GM sender in it. I was thinking I might just go with an Auto Meter gauge for fuel. I've already got them for oil,volt,water, and tach so what the heck. Again, thanks for your reply and I would love to see some photos. |
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I took some digital photos, but I need to down load a photoediting software so I can re-size them to post them.
Here is a description of what I did. I got some 2" square tubeing and cut it 27" long so that it goes under the fuel cell from the front to back mounting tabs. This lifts the sump above the trunk floor, but I wanted the fuel cell to be further forward in the trunk for more room to the sump connections, and also to level the cell SO- I welded a 20" length (the width of the cell) of the 2" tubing under the 2" tubing frame located 18" from the front (or 19" to the center of the cross tube.) This lifted the rear of the frame/fuel cell so I could slide it back to where the trunk floor raises for the axle. This also made the fuel cell more level. To square up the frame and add aditional mounting I also welded a 1-1/2" square tube about 12" from the front (12-1/2 O.C.) The 1-1/2" and the 2" square cross tubes were drilled for 3/8" bolts that bolt through the trunk floor (original tank removed.) Then the fuel cell is just bolted to the 2" tubing in the back (towards the axle), but in the front (towards the rear bumper) the 3/8" bolts goes through the fuel cell tabs, and through the 2" frame and the trunk floor. I also made a small fixture out of 1" square tubing and some steel plate that holds my fuel filter and fuel pump. The mounting fixture is also welded to the side of the fuelcell frame with more 1" tubing to provide some offset between the fuel cell and the fuel pump holding fixture. This way all the fuelcell and pump and filter are all easely removed as a unit. For my fuel lines, I used a #8AN bulkhead connector with some large washers so I could run the lines through the existing trunk drain holes (just removed the plastic caps.) I will post some pictures as soon as I re-size them. |
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side
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front
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pump
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vent
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bulkhead
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