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  #1  
Old 05-25-2004, 09:50 PM
pentastarguy pentastarguy is offline
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Unhappy 340 rear main seal

rear main seal bad, is it possible to lower the oil pan on a 69 340 dart and sneak up and around a new rear main seal without pulling the motor?.....
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Old 05-26-2004, 08:09 AM
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bbeckwith bbeckwith is offline
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If I can do it on a duster, then you oughta be able to do it on a dart, I would think the pan oughta be the same. As long as you have room enough to get the pan out. Then just drop the oil pump, pull the rear cap and replace the seal.
You may want to consider using anaerobic sealer on the flange surfaces, and rtv on the area where the two pieces join, as well as the backside of the seal. Good luck, it 's been my experience that 340's dont seem to want to seal very well for some reason.



ps, there is a tool called a sneaky pete you can use to pull the upper halve of the seal out with, but I was able to tap it part way out using an awl, and then pulled it the rest of the way out by hand. Be super careful not to nick the crank when pulling the seal. One more thing, if you have headers, you may as well oughta pull the motor, as they make the job of getting the pan in and out VERY aggravating. your choice tho
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Old 05-26-2004, 09:27 PM
pentastarguy pentastarguy is offline
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thanks for the reply,...........headers are involved indeed. i know about sneaky pete but i have access to make just about anything that might help me out. and the best sealant/silicone on the market is made by permatex, is called the right stuff. is expensive but seals real well. just do not expect to get any parts easily removed once used. i know from experience that this works where cheaper silicones cannot even touch two mating surfaces. is a super product. i will definitely use it upon installation of my rear main...........
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Old 05-26-2004, 10:20 PM
dodger1 dodger1 is offline
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This isn't exactly on the subject but since I have to pull the crank (360) for re-balancing I will replace the mains and one-piece rear seal (which was weeping a touch). Any recommendations here? Anyone dropped a crank without changing rod bearings? This is a 25000 mile engine with no wear issues; only the balance thing.
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