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Old 09-29-2004, 09:42 PM
Canuck Dart Canuck Dart is offline
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Default 360 info.

I'm sure this has been asked & answered a thousand times....

Any 360 blocks that should be avoided due to thin walls, etc?

Goin' yardin - don't want to waste time/money.
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Old 09-29-2004, 09:52 PM
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dwc43 dwc43 is offline
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No such thing as thin wall. Just do a sonic check for core shift just like you would with any other engine.
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Old 09-29-2004, 09:55 PM
Canuck Dart Canuck Dart is offline
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excellent! - was not sure....
thank you
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Old 09-29-2004, 09:56 PM
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Welcome, anytime.
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Old 09-29-2004, 10:20 PM
B.Tallent B.Tallent is offline
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the 71-72 blocks were the same casting as the 340 blocks and therefore can be bored out to 4.080 same as .040, 340 overbore.only diff. was the 360 is a tall deck block. the later 360 blocks shouldnt be bored over more than .040, effectively to 4.040.
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Old 09-29-2004, 10:30 PM
Canuck Dart Canuck Dart is offline
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That's good info. I would guess that neither of the cars I am l;ooking at would have had the engine out for a rebuild... but you never know.
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:21 PM
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perfmachst perfmachst is offline
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hello, tall deck 360 blocks??? how much taller??? 3/4 " like the 440 blocks??
I'm just curious. I can't find any mention in the "mopar" books about this.
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Old 09-30-2004, 12:07 AM
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There are no tall decks and all of them can go .060 over with a sonic check for core shift. Like to see some .060 over race engines we have?
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Old 09-30-2004, 01:36 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Chrysler really has confused these things, there is a lot of different information about the wall thicknesses. I think according to MP engine book, the '74 or '75 and earlier blocks should be thick wallers and share the 340 water jackets. And the later ones should be thinwallers. However, like with big blocks, this propable isn't true. I was wondering this a long time ago, since according to the factory, early blocks could be bored .020-.030" (again according to the factory source) bigger than the later ones. What it means in reality is, that the earlier castings should have .010-.015" thicker castings to end up with same thickness cylinder walls. Now, if you take a look at some blocks, there usually are way bigger coreshifts than this, so there just isn't a way they could have adjusted the casting thickness such a small amount. The difference should also be seen in weight etc, and there isn't such unarguable difference. Finally AndyF sonic checked many big block blocks, and it was pretty evident that none of this thick wall - thin wall block tied in to certain year castings was true. The later blocks were softer material though, but as an average actually had thicker walls.I have not seen similar test done with small blocks, but feel that it's the same thing there. Could be a place for a magazine article about the subject?
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Old 09-30-2004, 10:38 AM
Canuck Dart Canuck Dart is offline
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OK - so we have pretty much determined among all of us that other than core shift the whole wall thickness thing from year to year is bunk....what about other issues? Any differences in blocks from year to year otherwise??? We all know about the changes in heads over the years...

I don't really care about the magnum stuff - just basic junkyard LA 360's.
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Old 09-30-2004, 11:12 AM
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There is no such thing as a tall deck/short deck difference is Chrysler small blocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All small blocks are basicly the same except 2 notables.
1, early 273 engines use smaller attaching hardware and a different angle in the realationship of intake to head.
2, 1970, 340 blocks are a heavy duty design.
Thats IT!
B.Tallent mixed up big block and small block.
ANY 360 block is good for hi-performance to light racing. The big difference in early to late blocks is the material used in casting. Early models have a higher nickel content. Cyl. wall thickness can vary. Some of the thin wall year blocks are thin wall, but not all are. Because of the nickel content, core shifting can be more servere than in older blocks. Less nickel content means the cyl. walls and block can move more. In THIS reason alone is where the "Don't bore more than..." came to be.
Bottom line
Sonic check the block!
Once you have determined where you stand with the block, only from there can you make a choice in what needs to be done and what can be done.
The less you overbore the engine, the better!!!!!!!!!
Less overbore equals a strong cyl, and a stiffer cyl wall. This means less blow by and better sealing of the pistonrings for the comp. ratio you intended it to have. Less oil consumption and longer life.
Last note, since you are J-yard hunting, less miles the better, if you can see the cyl. walls, great! Check for ridges on the wall, metal in the pan problems with the pistons. They should be dent free. As in dents from the valves smacking the top of the piston.
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