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  #1  
Old 10-19-2004, 08:29 PM
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Default Boiling gas in float bowl

Just ordered a phenolic 1/2 spacer to help this but my headers are a ugly surface rust color any way so I was looking at header wrap and under the part # it also sells heat resistant spray and special clamps. Do I need all that other stuff or can I just wrap it and use my own clamps ?????
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  #2  
Old 10-19-2004, 08:33 PM
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You can wrap it yourself and leave it. The wrap paint is there to help water proof and contain heat.
The problem with wrap is it holds water.
You could send your headers to jet hot or HPC in Conn. (State) to be done.
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  #3  
Old 10-19-2004, 08:57 PM
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Biggrin

The coatings do not reduce under hood temps much at all. We've had several coated, but now we coat our own and use the header wrap. I have actually touched headers after a race for a split second and did not notice any heat or burns. Normally you do that and you get an instant blister. The plug wire boots work well too. On our small blocks, we coat and wrap our headers and the 5,7 wires have the boots on them and touch the header wrap. I have yet to burn a plug wire this way. We use the big 8.8 wires with the big boots, so that's why they touch that header tube.
The paints o.k., but worthless without the wrap. The clamps are not needed. We use red high temp RTV on the first loop of header wrap on each tube. Then you over lap each round by a 1/4" until you get to the end and RTV it again. I have some old headers that I like to use at one track and they have never unraveled or rusted out, yet. Stuff works great.
Might I also suggest pulling the intake and blocking off the heat cross ove under your intake since it runs right under the carb.
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2004, 09:42 PM
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Biggrin

Sure you can suggest it but I wont pull that intake off anymore. I think I set a world record for pullong it on and off for various reasons. Im in Arizona and dont give a crap about rust on my old headers, hell it will match my lower rear quater panels Going to U.T.I full time and working 8 hours a day, Ill stick with the 10 minute wrap.
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  #5  
Old 10-19-2004, 10:26 PM
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Biggrin

It's a nice car, but I'll let you draw a crowd if you can wrap those things in 10 mins. I've never done it that fast. It looks easy too, until you have to figure out how to manuver around some tubes ans finish where you need too.
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  #6  
Old 10-19-2004, 10:30 PM
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Allright now dont try to scare me off this project now
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  #7  
Old 10-19-2004, 10:31 PM
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Just went out side and had a looksie ans I better pick up a 12 pack and bribe the neighbors.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2004, 11:23 PM
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That's a 12 pack of JD, right...
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2004, 11:27 PM
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O.K how about a handle if were going to do it Drinks on the house Boy'z
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  #10  
Old 10-20-2004, 07:47 AM
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Sounds like there will be a lot more of a party than a car repairing a going on. LOL!!
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  #11  
Old 10-20-2004, 08:51 AM
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Wink Hot???

Quote:
Originally Posted by darren509
Just ordered a phenolic 1/2 spacer to help this but my headers are a ugly surface rust color any way so I was looking at header wrap and under the part # it also sells heat resistant spray and special clamps. Do I need all that other stuff or can I just wrap it and use my own clamps ?????
Header coating will drop the underhood temps a considerable amt, and the wrap will shorten the life of the headers by a considerable amount. [Most header mfgrs won't even warranty them if they've been wrapped.]
Next, the wrap is a wick that absorbs oil, and will make a NASTY fire if lit.

1.You don't say what the application is, but if the engine has a return fuel system, it could be that the fuel is already hot when pumped to the engine.
2. If the tank has an insufficient vent, and an electric pump, the fuel can be caused to boil at the inlet of the pump, due to cavitation.[Liquids boil at a lower temp in a vacuum]. This can happen w/ mechanical pumps too.
3. Poor fuel supply can/will also cause the engine to run lean, raising EGT's.
Before you go to the header wrap, I suggest you try the spacer, and take a look at the above items.
Insulating the fuel line to the carb where it is exposed to the engine heat will also help.

BTW, the item #2, was found to be a MAJOR problem on a car I was involved in, in Phoenix!!

This link shows the temps at various intervals on uncoated, and coated headers..http://www.jet-hot.com/pages/techinfo.html
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2004, 11:03 AM
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Default Try and use a heat shield

Gasoline boiling in the bowls was a common problem in hot climates so the factories used a heat shield under the carb It was just a wide metal plate but you could probably make one out of wood for better insulation. This would be a good supplement the insulated fuel line and would act as a spacer as well.
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  #13  
Old 10-21-2004, 11:51 PM
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The big metal plate was a heatsink that absorbed the heat from the intake and disipated it over a large area, it didnt really shield the carb by design. Now a piece of phenolic spacer above the heat "shield" would be the best of both worlds. I actually saw a power steering cooler used as a fuel "radiator" on a car in Vegas. I dont know how well it worked, but I though it was a novel idea.
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  #14  
Old 10-23-2004, 01:24 PM
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This project just got exterminated !! Got the phenolic spacer kit and went to put in the first longer stud and just when it was starting to get spug,, pop !! One stud sheared clean off in the manifold. So go to hardware store for easy outs and bits and guess what broke off inside the stud ? F***in easy out is also flush with the mounting area now. Hardened steel, more like molded butter if you ask me. So now im sporting around with 3 studs holding the lungs of my motor. Maybe I'll just drive with the hood off and let her disipate the heat that way until I scrape for a new manifold. Good thing I diddnt buy alot of JD, I might have done somthing I would regret later like a brick through the windsheild
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  #15  
Old 10-24-2004, 12:07 AM
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Biggrin

You could always drill it out and heli coil it. Or better yet, hand it off to a machine shop and let them fight with it. While it's off, block the heat cross over in the manifold. Plus you can add a fuel cooler to it too. Works just a like a power steering cooler and it's about the same size. We use them on race cars some times. I could get you one if you want it. Hope you have better luck.
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  #16  
Old 10-24-2004, 12:12 PM
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allready tried to drill it out but the easy out bit iis to hard and cant drill through it , drill bit keeps walking to the side. Think Ill order a new manifold and do it on a weekend. Dont have a spare ride and Im in school full time and work after that.
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  #17  
Old 10-24-2004, 06:51 PM
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Buddy had an easy out break flush with the iron cylinder head exhaust stud, had to burn it out with a freak'n LASER..(Dr. Evil...) Drill and tap a hole next to it and redrill your carb ala small carter pattern.
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  #18  
Old 10-30-2004, 05:52 PM
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Default Got that little S.O.B.

The boss at the machine shop gave me a funky looking bit that looks like it it just split down each side. Well it worked like a charm. Got the helicoil in but it was a tad bit off after my mining expedition on the manifold, so just hogged out one ear on the carb and the spacer and pow. Will keep you posted if this made any improvments on the boiling thing. Thanks to all , and where can we get a LASER
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  #19  
Old 10-30-2004, 07:50 PM
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Industrial HeNe laser, high temp, high power. Used for burning out studs...among other things. Found in a stud removal shop, neighbor owned so it was free. Usually cost a Franklin or more.
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