|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
torsion bar to coilover conversion
hei
i am thinking about taking the torsion bar out and replays them with coilover, this is a 71 charger. how much work is this and whats the easy way to do it. thanks svein |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Why, torsion bars work great. I have a 73 Charger and would never think of switching. Besides it's a lot of work.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Coil over
Magnum performance makes a kit from basic to very indepth. It's like 500 just for the coil overs with adapters, but i believe you'd have to relieve the upper control arms for clearance, or buy the tubular ones for an additional price. Or you could buy the complete front end kit with tubular k-member lower control arms and uppers, spindles, with rack and pinion stuff, for about 3700. If I could only find that money laying around i'd go with it myself.
But i'm po so i'll just have to fab it up myself, and buy a set of coil overs and go from there. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
It is a lot of work. There is no easy way to do it.
If you end up doing it, be sure to reinforce the shock towers. They weren't designed for that kind of abuse and will rip apart. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
reinforcements
I had planned on putting some kind of tubular hoops instead of the stamped piece that way i could go with a taller shock and spring set-up
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Why would anyone remove the most simple, trouble free, effective suspension ever designed and put in cobbled-together, home-built coil-overs?
Why not just chop the entire front half off and graft on parts from a '71 Chevy, fenders and all? |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
He asked for help/advice. Let's not attack him for wanting to do this. All that will do is make him leave this board and go to another one that might help, instead of attacking him.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Simple minded me
Because I really love how i have to fight my headers to wrap around my passenger side. And I really love and I mean really love the driver's side. And why run a factory set-up when it makes me happy to change things, and to try them on my own. I see systems like these and how they are in use and I try and figure out ways of doing it cheaper and better, and I have a tendency "I've had A.D.D all my life" and figuring this stuff out makes me non-fit in with the average crowd with my car. And if I wanted to bolt on a cheb front end to improve my car i'd do it, just to make myself happy. Unless someone want's to pay me to keep my car the way it left the factory. Till then it's mine and all mine.
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
A Mustang II / Pinto front end is most likely the easiest and cheapest route, plus, there is great aftermarket support for this suspension system. It also upgrades to rack and pinion steering.
Whatever we may feel about Fords and GM's, they are still American iron!! torch |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
You might want to look into the AlterKtion. It is a better design and will bolt in with very little problem. Bill has done alot of R&D work on this setup.
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
One look at the header dillema for the 64/66 A cars and you would think about the coil overs too. Imagine a 89 buck set of headers fitting without removing the motor. A rack and pinion would be the icing on the cake for these cars.
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Yep, the torsion bar setup was great, when it was new. Now there is much better, when it comes to steering and suspension.
I am really begining to think that coil overs and rack & pinion may be the way to go, when I begin the real work on my convertible. I'll keep the original setup in my Charger, as she is going to be as close to factory as possible. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
go for the coil overs they are a lot easier on the header thing i helped a freind of mine put a kit in his 69 dart it was easy we did reinforce the shock towers the car rode better and transferd weight better also when i get the money im going to do it to my 67 b body
__________________
MR Belvedere Will they ever be fast enough |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
The AlterKtion setup doesn't depend on any of the original suspension. So, there is no need to reinforce the shock towers.
The AlterKtion kit is designed for mostly street use, with some strip time. The Mgnum Force setup is designed for the strip with no street use. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
word mr pimp you are correct as usual
__________________
MR Belvedere Will they ever be fast enough |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
lol... Honestly, I hadn't done much research into this, until this post came up. I just posted info based on about 30 minutes of web research.
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I overheard some gear heads talking about coil overs and tubular K frame and upper control arms last week. One of the benefits that they were discussing on a ride in the 9's was either greater caster or camber. I'm not sure which does what - but when I asked they said something about allowing the front wheels to be pulled back futher - so that they have less drag while running at the higher speeds - can anyone explain what it was that I heard the pro's talking about? |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
well one advantge is that it helos the wheel assembly stay vertical through the travel and i dont know which one either but it allows the wheel to be straight horizontaly so that there is less rolling resistance and all of that equals more et hope it helps
__________________
MR Belvedere Will they ever be fast enough |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
torsion bars
hello and thanks
can someone tell what i have to do to remove the torsionbar? thanks svein |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
torsion bar removal
svein,
removal of the torsion bars: first know that each bar has a internal "C" clip at the rear that need to be removed. No special tool needed, pair of needle nose pliers will do. Second, be sure to remove all stress off of the T bar by backing out the T bar adjustment screw in the lower control arm until it can be easily wiggled by hand. Now comes the hard part. The T bar should be able to move towards the rear of the car, but only if it wants. Years of junk and corrosion can be in the two "hex holes" that the T bar ends live in. I have been able to put a pipe wrench onto the T bar and apply axial load (not rotational load) and maybe also hammer pound on the wrench. For really difficult ones, you can buy a heavy tool that clamps onto the T bar, and then you hammer pound onto the tool. Tim 72 Cuda 360/904 |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Another method is to follow the previous instructions, of course the car will be on jack stands with the UCA bump stops removed so the suspension will hang at its lowest level. A proper torsion bar tool should be purchased or borrowed to remove the bars, remember you are working with a straight spring with pressure, any stress crack can cause failure, thus possibly injury or vehicle damage. Removing the nut that attaches the lower control arm to the K-member also removes tension and will aid in removing the bar. I want the AlterKtion kit for my 74 Duster bad, will it fit small blocks?
|
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
much more info is available on their website. |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
I was on another board a while back and there was a huge thread on aftermarket tubular K members and similar setups. the general consensus was that the alterktion was the best one. the name of the other board begins with mo and ends with parts, you could find the thread using the search there. It's a good read because there were actual guys on that thread who installed this stuff- some horror stories and a few good experiences....
|
#24
|
||||
|
||||
There's was one of the boards that I found, when doing my search. They guys that make the AlterKtion setup had a lot of input. They provided some great information, as well as some great questions to ask.
|
#25
|
||||
|
||||
If you scratch or gouge the bars, make sure you polish out any traces of the damage before you put the bars back into service. The surface flaws are stress risers, which may cause the bars to fail.
torch |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
As he is converting to a coil over setup, the torsion bars aren't going to be reused. So, it doesn't really matter if he scratches the heck out of them.
|
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Understood, but what if he sells them to a buddy?
torch |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Oops,forgot - Norway! Probably not much market for used American car parts. What the hell, they make great prybars with a little grinding!
torch |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
There is a good following in some of the european countries. We have several members from Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Germany. So, he just might give them to a buddy or maybe use them on another project...
It is good advise though, for anyone that is going to be reusing the torsion bars. Heck, even for brand new bars. You just might nick them on the way in. Then you just have to stroke your bar with some emmory cloth... (youch). |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
HELP HELP 2 Questions A Body Disc Conversion and 4 Speed Conversion | 416 Stroker 340 | Performance Talk | 0 | 07-26-2004 02:20 AM |
Coilover suspension question (long) | Fig | Performance Talk | 7 | 05-09-2004 11:08 PM |
anyone out there ever install coilover shocks on thier mopar | rallye72 | Performance Talk | 10 | 10-05-2002 02:28 PM |
Going To Coilover/Ladder bar and... | Magnum440 | Performance Talk | 6 | 03-28-2002 06:54 AM |
Torsion bar ? | Challenger | Performance Talk | 2 | 08-15-2000 08:57 PM |