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#1
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oil pump/dist drive gear
Installing a new cam in a 360. Oil pump drive should pull out straight up, correct? Can pull gear up far enough to slide cam in, but need to be able to reinstall it in correct position. Don't want to force it. Please don't tell me I need to pull oil pan. I will suggest to myself... Buy a service manual.
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#2
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No, it should twist out due to the cut of the gears. No need to drop the pan. No need to pull it out any further than needed to install the cam. Then push the drive in till the gears meet. The gears will mesh into eash other. Line up the dots and install the chain. Degree it.
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#3
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How you doin Stryke ,when you put the driveshaft back in,the slot in the top of the gear should be in line with the front intake bolt on the left cyl. head this is so your rotor will point to the #1 plug wire on the cap when you put your distributor back in.what cam are you installing?
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#4
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Installing Mopar purpleshaft 4452992- 280/474 lift. Cylinder pressures 140-145psi. Used motor. Kinda taken a chance, but have another 360 to rebuild this winter.
Pulling the drive straight up it jams. Won't come out. Would like it to move freely to line up dist drive slot. Don't want to use sledgehammer to reinstall it. Big hammers are always tempting. |
#5
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you might have to pry up on the drive gear as you turn counterclockwise( I think thats the way to turn it its been awhile)there is bound to be carbon built up on the shaft making it stick on the bushing.may need to use a little brakecleaner on it.
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#6
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Your on the right track!
As others have mentioned, install your cam, but after installation with the dots lined up, you can pick the intermediate shaft back up while twisting it and slide it into whichever slot you want it in the gears.
I've noticed over the years that with the dots lined up on the timing gears, the cam is on the exhaust stroke on #1 so make sure you rotate the engine over enough to where #1 intake and exhaust lifters are on the base circle and your on compression stroke tdc when you set your distributor to fire on #1. Hope that's not too confusing |
#7
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actually, when the cam is installed dot-to-dot, #1 cylinder will be at TDC on the exhaust stroke. once the timing gears are installed, turn the crankshaft exactly one turn to install the distributor. this places #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke... where it needs to be for the ignition timing.
not sure why mopar did this, i am sure they had their reasons. all i do know is that NONE of my books make this step clear. or i suppose you could install the distributor 180* out of time, and wire it accordingly. that is too confusing for me, so i just give the crank one turn.
__________________
Where are we going?... And why am I in this hand-basket? 84 D250/440/3.54:1 dana 60/16" wheels, 31" tires/A-727trans/3" header mufflers/weighs 5000 lbs/13.22 sec @ 103+ mph. |
#8
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They did what?
Quote:
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#9
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Creative 1, thanks for clarifying what I was struggling to convey!
As far as the exhaust stroke thing, it's the same on chevrolets too, it must have something to do with the cam manufacturing process since you would think eliminating that extra turn would save alot of headaches for alot of people. |
#10
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Quote:
Good tip! But it reminded me of an interesting issue. I have a1980 FJM-body 318 with standard Vacuum-elec ignition. I was told by a member on another board that these particular cars had the dist gear slot off-set a few degrees. (example: not straight like this | but more like this \ or this /) This reasoning being, because the dist sits close to the firewall, the Chrysler engineers feared, the vacuum can would not allow enough room for timing adjustments. So they offset the gear, and also offset the guts of the dist too. Therefore if you installed another distributor, OR, swap a different engine, using the orig dist (like I intend to do), youd never get the timing correct. The guy who told me says this documented in the 1980 factory svc manual. I dont doubt the guy, but since I never heard this before, and asked around, but no one else has heard of it either. It is not mentioned in my Haynes or Chilton books, nor in the 1983 manual (courtesy of imperialclub.com). Has anyone here ever heard of th |
#11
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So it wasn't just me having the dist. timing issue. Why wouldn't you have the motor at tdc compression when the timing dots are lined up?
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#12
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#13
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I agree DWC, you can set #1 to fire in any place you want on the distributor.
I'ts all a matter of preference of distributor position. The manufacturer tried to standardize the procedure to make it easier, but by no means is it a must. |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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The Challenger was rear wheel drive, witha 2.6 though. We have 2 of them for dirt track cars that my brother drives. Ones still in street trim, but the other one is built and well raced and has the badges of courage to prove it.
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#16
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I didn't know that they were RWD. I assumed they were FWD, but I assume that was before the Japs all went to it for economic reasons.
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#17
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Must have changed over after those were run out. That car only carried the Challenger name for a couple years. IT was known as teh Sapporo and some other names too. It also used the '70 Challenger script emblems on it. That's why I could still buy them from the dealer for so many years. I'll see if I can post a litle info on it latter.
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