Suggestions for B-body rearend setups

[66c'net]

I am in the process of building what is going to be ( i hope) a bad ass big block b-body(66 coronet 500 sedan) I am starting in the back and working to the front to save the most expensive area for last(the motor) i am looking for any info on part#'s for SS springs, set-up and so on. It will be an 8 3/4, springs moved inboard for tire clearance, welded frame connectors, sway bar, and something around 3.73 gears to be somewhat streetable, its a 727 and any suggestions or info would be greatly aprecaited.
Ohh the car will be bottle fed some day too

[Mills]

Not sure on p#'s, but you will want the 3800# springs for a B-body, and the extended front hangers to go with them. If street duty is planned, skip the drag shocks....get a set of anything from a C body (Imperial Etc.). These are longer then your B- body units and will not bottom out and unload the suspension. May want to consider un-clamping the springs at the rear - this helps plant the tires, but hurts cornering on street.

A pinion snubber is something most people use, although I find it actually helps unload the suspension...so I don't use one.

Also, a pinoin angle of about 2-4 deg. down is best comprise I find between street tires and slicks.

Lots of guys run a set-up very similar to this and run in the 10's easily...I'm not quite there yet.

Oh, and your idea about starting at the back, and moving forward it a GREAT idea to be sure things are done right, and right the first time. Not to mention safe!

[70Barracuda]

Don't mess around with that weak stuff.. Get a Dana and be done with it!
Everyone has those 8 and 3/4's. Be the Man! Dana 60 for the bottle fed big block.
Plus they look so good

[doungta1@aol]

I bought my SS springs and matching shocks from Dave Klutz out of N.C.

Even if you don't purchase any thing from him, he spent a lot of time educating me on what I should and should not buy. Mostly purchased INDY heads and kit from him His number is 704 485 3380.

However it was a long time ago and I have since switch over to a ladder bar set up. If you're going to move your springs in - you might think about a ladder bar set up - you certainly don't require ladder bars if you running 10"s and higher - but you will not need to move your springs in either - Those "shoot our cars" run incredible times on a 10" tire.

[doungta1@aol]

Ya - he is right - go with the dana - it's a little heavier but the extra weight holds the rear end down

If you're running with a bottle - you'll want a something solid in the back

[J-440]

A little help with those subframe connectors would also benefit the use of torque boxes at all 4 corners of the car. A company called safe-t-cap sells them for around $250 for all 4. I can't remember the exact website but they are heavy duty, pre-cut for your car and are 1/4" thick steel.

[rumblefish360]

I think he means these guys out of Ct. state.
http://www.autorust.com/
Dana is way over kill for this and a waste of money when you have something that'll work great.

[doungta1@aol]

Originally Posted by J-440

A little help with those subframe connectors would also benefit the use of torque boxes at all 4 corners of the car. A company called safe-t-cap sells them for around $250 for all 4. I can't remember the exact website but they are heavy duty, pre-cut for your car and are 1/4" thick steel.

What is a torque box? What is the benefit and how are they installed (weld or bolt on?

[rumblefish360]

There weld in boxs design by the factory to help stiffen where the front eye of the rear springs bolts in. It's the whole area around the front eye.
Also the front, but wait, I forgot, click here and scrool down and look yourself;
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86829