Radiator replacement

[66FuryII]

The radiator in my 66 Fury II is not looking so good. I want to replace it before I'm done with my 318 to 360 motor swap. I bought and install on the 360 a new water pump, and well the water line on the pump to the bottom of the radiator is on the right of the motor instead of on the left. On the Fury's stock radiator, the bottom water line is on the left of the motor.

Anyone know of a place I can get a good radiator from that would work with my car and that has the bottom water line on the right, and not drain me of cash? Thanks.

Josh

[Dick]

Any radiator shop could refurbish your existing unit and change the bottom tank to your desired location.

[dwc43]

Originally Posted by 66FuryII

The radiator in my 66 Fury II is not looking so good. I want to replace it before I'm done with my 318 to 360 motor swap. I bought and install on the 360 a new water pump, and well the water line on the pump to the bottom of the radiator is on the right of the motor instead of on the left. On the Fury's stock radiator, the bottom water line is on the left of the motor.

Anyone know of a place I can get a good radiator from that would work with my car and that has the bottom water line on the right, and not drain me of cash? Thanks.

Josh

You need the correct pump is all. IF you change from the older left discharge pump to a right side discharge pump you will also need a new balancer and front cover or you wont be able to set your timming since the marks are all different.

[cutting torch]

Another option is to keep the new water pump since it's lighter, make a timing pointer to bolt on, and get mopar's timing tape to put on your damper after you find true TDC. Since you seem to need a new radiator anyway, measure yours and go to a boneyard, find one that matches yours mount-wise but has the lower hose connection on the right. I think the water pumps changed sides for the outlet in '68 or '69.

torch

[cutting torch]

DWC, I can't believe you would recommend keeping a heavier cast iron water pump when that could burn a few laps off the life of your right front tire. I thought you were a go-fast-turn-left guy!!!

torch

[dwc43]

I am, but he aint turnning left only. I also strongly like to keep original cars original as possible. Cause once the yare all gone, that's it.

[cutting torch]

It aint staying original.. he's replacing a 318 with a 360. But... I can see the point of LOOKING original! Also, I guess a few pound weight savings on a C-body is like an elephant swatting a bird off of it's butt!

torch

[dwc43]

Yeah, I don't think he will save enough to shave off maybe .00000001 of his et ... LOL!!

[cutting torch]

66.... we're not dogging on your car, but you know as well as we do, it's HEAVY!! I could be driving a Kenworth, and I would still be scared of it!

Who needs airbags when cars splat on your grille like bugs on a windshield!!

torch

[dwc43]

Yeah, don't you long for the good old days when cars were made of steel and that's the only safety equipment you needed to survive a 60 plus mph crash?

[lenweiler]

I would go aluminum. Not much more cost. Cooler and lighter. But not stock.

[64dartwagon]

I had this same problem when I did my swap, after going over the costs etc.... it was cheaper and easier going with a universal aluminum radiator, with a external trans cooler. The rad cost about 185 shipped, and I had my choice of sizes and hose locations from eslave. The brackets had to be made but that is no big deal, just an excuse to work on the car a little longer.