TD....60 amp alternator question

[Gromski]

I should have mentioned that its a single field alternator.Not knowing any better I say single field because it only has one field connection.When I bought it from Advance Auto the counter guy said it was 60 amp and asked if that would be ok.Not being able to find an alternator anywhere else around here,and not knowing any difference I bought it.When you mentioned that the orginal amp meter should be disconnected I just wasn't sure where to disconnect it and what to do with the wiring.Just to be positive,how can you tell the difference between a single
field and a dual field alternator,by looking at it.Just trying to be overly cautious with the electrical till I understand it more.That could take a while.Do you have any electical tips that I might try or test before I put the BATTERY in this car.Would like to avoid any problems if possible ,just don't want to see any smoke when I connect this BATTTERY.
THANX

[TD]

Look at the back of the alternator. Single field alternator has 2 connections (alt. output and field). The dual field alternator has 3 connections, alt. output and 2 field connections.

Regardless of which alternator it is, you have the potential to burn up your voltage regulator, ammeter, and do damage to your bulkhead connector and wiring.

If you have the single field alternator, you need to upgrade your voltage regulator to a unit that will handle the current.

If you have a dual field alternator, an electronic regulator should be used.

I have a 64 Plymouth that I put a 65 amp, dual field alternator on. I replaced the old voltage regulator with an electronic unit and connected a heavier wire (10 gage) directly to the battery. There are some other wiring considerations that need to looked at, if the electronic regulator is used.

I'm not trying to tell you how to do things, but I am telling you the shortcomings of just trying put a high current alternator on a car that was not designed to handle double the original current requirements.

Let me know if I can help further.

[chrger1970]

I put an 80 amp alt in my 70 Charger(E.G.R prodocts 1800-325-8695 Spoke with Kieth Horn), I did not have to upgrade anything. Its been close to a year and I have not had any problems at all. This alt gives me 60 amps at idle and a max of 80(no more dimming headlights at idle). I highly recomend it, but call them and see if its good for your car. good luck!

[TD]

My ammeter used to indicate slightly positive current flow before I started adding electrical accessories. I decided to go racing with the car and added MSD ignition, an electric water pump, fuel pump, and fan.

After I added these items the ammeter would swing close to full scale with the engine running. Over a period of time I found that I had to use the battery charger from time to time, just before I took it to the track.

Have you actually measured your current to be 60 amps at idle? What kind of electrical add-ons do you have? If you are drawing that much current continuosly, I'm amazed you haven't had any problems.

With my old 35 amp alternator trying to keep up with the load, the alternator output wire use to get very warm to the touch. No way could the stock harness handle a 60 amp load without burning something up.

Alternators are devices designed to work at "on-demand" type conditions. In other words, If the battery does not require 60 amps to maintain the battery, the current is adjusted to keep up with load demands (self adjusting).

Right after you start your car, the ammeter usually swings positive 15 or 20 amps for a few seconds then returns to near 0. If you are drawing 60 amps at idle you must have a huge electrical demand or a defective electrical system.

I have taken apart voltage regulators and found the contacts welded together from excessive current demand from a higher than stock current output alternator. So while you say you haven't had any problems, maybe your system is continously demanding 60 to 80 amps through your regualtor and wiring.