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#1
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Holley Carb Icing
How can you tell when its icing. Damn thing runs alright when its above 2krpm but when its below freezing it wont idle worth a crap until it runs for about 1/2 hour between 2k and 4k rpm. ( driving up and down the road. I have a 40 min. commute to work. ) The idle is set right or at least it idle great when its warmer or not having this problem. Its a model 4160 carb.
This truck is realy gettin under my skin!!! Seems like at least once a month something breaks or goes wrong with it. |
#2
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Open the hood and there will be ice on it. I've only had one do this in all my years and it was on a stock carter 318 '68 Ply. Satt. It's most likely in that junky holley your running. I'd get a stock 800 cfm thermoquad and put on it and you wont have any more porblems.
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#3
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hollys are notorious for having to be recalibrated every couple of days. that is, unfortunate. on the other hand, hollys are known for making more power according to the butt-o-meter than other carbs. for the fact that your truck is a daily driver, dwc is right. run a carter. it sucks, because of the expense involved, but then again, the hassle will be eliminated.
also, depending on how cold it is where you live, like alaska, you may need to do some much further tuning to your choke setup. good luck. if you give us more info, we might be able to help more. michael |
#4
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you can check the manifold heat crossover,if it has been plugged off for performance reasons. alot of people did that because of fuel perc. but it means pulling the intake to see if it has the block off plates,also you can remove the carb insulator for winter,but then when it gets warm you will have fuel perc.in the carb.
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#5
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The EGR has been blocked off. I live in West Virginia. It usually does it if it is under freezing temp or below thats why I was wondering about ice. As far as the manifold heat croosover i havent a clue. I know it still has the flapper valve( not sure if that is what it is called ) on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. I think its on the passenger side but it isnt connected to anything if it is supposed to be. As for as the choke I had an electric choke but had all kinds of problems with it so I converted it to a manual and it didnt make a difference as to how it started in the warm or in the freezing cold so I took it off completley. Across the street from my house is a plymouth van with a 360 in it but im not sure on the carb. I know its there I just dont know what it is. If it is a thermoquad or carter will it bolt on to my eddie or will I need an adapter.
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#6
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Well you live in WV, it cant get that cold. I dont understand teh whole issue. It did this with and without a choke on it? That doesnt sound right...
Personally I would take a holley any day over the other carbs listed, but that is just me and thats what I know. I know zero about the rest of them out there. Heck up here Im pretty sure it gets colder than WV, was a balmy 9 degrees when I came to work this morning. I never heard of this trouble with any types of carbs. |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Kevin Garceau, It gets a little colder in West Va. than you think.
runedawg, go back to the electric choke. It is an excellent device for even street strip rides. Follow the directions and measure carefully. B.Tallent has good ideas. Also, are you running an open air cleaner? Do you have a heat stove that runs to the cleaner? You may be a tad lean. Once the carb warms up a little, and it is running right @ or under 2,000 rpm's, the cold air from outside increases speed and cools of the carb just enuff to make it run crummy. There may also be some small amount of water in the fuel line. The T-Q, if under the hood of the van, is a direct bolt on for the performer intake. A T-Q is a Carter. If your thinking of the Edel. AFB, it should bolt right on. Edel. sells a plate to install under the carb to take up any areas not covered by the carb. The "Flapper valve" is there to direct the exhaust gas back into the intake manifold to decrease warm up times. It heats the bottom of the intake. |
#9
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Quote:
i ran a 318 with a offey dualport for 5 years with a 600 edelbrock and a 14"air cleaner and never had it ice up. the secret? let it warm up on low idle (700-900) the reason why this woks is because you keep the air speed thrue the venturi's low enough that it warms up bfore it ices up. unfortunatly, i dont think a holley will run at a low idle when cold so try the heat soak method |
#10
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Several different carbs by different manufacturers have given me icing problems even with a functioning heat crossover. In each case, I fab'd a 5/8" thick aluminum carb spacer that mounts between the carb and the manifold that circulates engine coolant through passages drilled in the body. Works great! Eliminated icing and greatly increased driveability.
Mitch |
#11
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some -3 413's and 361's did that, works good.
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#12
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I think I have already caught on to the heat soak method you were talkink about. Ive done it like twice but I just thought it was a fluke so I didnt pay much mind to it. The bad part about it doing this is that this is my 4wd and it seems like when it snows or gets icy the truck acts like HA HA idiot look what I can do.
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#13
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believe me, i know the feeling. me and my best friend had a snow truck, 84 ram 3/4 tonner 4X4. we called it the millenium falcon. it only ran when we needed it to. any other time, it laughed at us. like "less than 3"? drive the 2wd trucks, gimpy." yeah, i showed it......
sold it to him michael |
#14
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Cheap way out is the stock air cleaner + working carb heat. If you could find a dual-snorkel unit you should have enough airflow as long as the carb heat valve closes and the second snorkel opens when they should. I've had my share of iced carbs after 30 years of living on the Wet Coast. Never gets below freezing but the high humidity gets ya every time. I like Mitch's elegant solution, (used on some carbed imports). And of course the heat-soak method also works, as long as you don't have to leave RIGHT NOW!!
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