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  #1  
Old 03-22-2005, 02:38 AM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Default Water Wetter

Ok, after I spoke up about water wetter damaging an aluminum part, I went to look up some hard data. Turns out the damage was done after a >10% concentration of Water Wetter was used in the block for an extended time. Turns out the "Water Wetter has a high Ph, but also has silicates, so it can be used in aluminium radiators. However, if left for a long time, the silicates are depleted, and damage will occur. The liquid versions of Water Wetter
do not have phosphates."

The last part is not that important, but the PH is what probably corroded the ALuminum part. High PH's are acidic and aluminum is highly reactive. Ever hear that you dont cook tomatoes in an aluminum pan? Anyway, thought I would clarify.
It sounds like a very good product if used according to instructions.
100% water is the ultimate cooling medium, you can run a motor to 220. Put in 8% water wetter and no other changes and itll run 202. Reason that are given is that WW is a lubricant (makes water more slippery to water pump vanes, less friction {weak answer in my mind} and it makes bubbles(?) smaller so the water can get closer to the metal and transfer heat more efficiently.
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  #2  
Old 03-22-2005, 12:20 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Good to know stuff. I have used water wetter before with good results. But not for long time periods.
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2005, 03:48 PM
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a 16 lb pressure cap will raise the boiling point of plain old water from 212* to 244*(at sea level), with nothing else added. this alone would make an engine very operable in the 220* range. adding a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (antifrooze) will raise the boiling point even more, and provide lubrication for the water pump in the process, not to mention the 'conditioners' in it.

to make water "slipperier", all that is needed is a little dishwashing detergent... very little! just a few drops will go a long way (if you get foam, you have gone WAY overboard!). it is the surface tension that makes bubbles. surfactants (detergents) reduce surface tension, minimizing bubble formation. most detergents also are phosphate based, which would also (to me... via the original post) indicate a link between water wetter and detergent.
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Old 03-22-2005, 03:55 PM
BillyBob BillyBob is offline
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I have been using Water Wetter for about 2 years now in a 1987 Jeep(daily driver) and have found no significant change in operating temperatures.
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Old 03-22-2005, 05:38 PM
jelsr jelsr is offline
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Just an FYI post. Low pH is acidic, the lower the pH the more so. Pure water is 7.0, rainwater, which has carbon dioxide dissolved into it, is slightly acidic at approx 5.5.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:23 PM
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Robertson_Tech Robertson_Tech is offline
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Default It worked for me

In the challenger I sold last year, it dropped temp in traffic from 230 to 210. I did a full flush and repore every 3 months while using but I saw no corrosion.
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Old 03-22-2005, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyBob
I have been using Water Wetter for about 2 years now in a 1987 Jeep(daily driver) and have found no significant change in operating temperatures.
unless it rund hot to begin with, you wont notice, my F350, 400M had a overheat prob in traffic pulling a load, a bottle of royal purple purple ice competly solved the problem dishwashing soap works too, just is hard on the bearings in the pump (i hear)
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:55 PM
jelsr jelsr is offline
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Not throwing rocks but if you think about it, the bearing is of a sealed variety, packed with conventional lube, and has an exclusion seal to prevent coolant entering and causing a bearing failure. How these additives get past these obstacles to lube etc. is a mystery when there is a weep hole to alert you to coolant getting past the seal.
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:34 AM
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Oh man, My PH was backwards? Oh well, I do know that Drano is highly basic and the other side is acidic and you mix the two and you get salt water..OK, I agree.
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jelsr
Not throwing rocks but if you think about it, the bearing is of a sealed variety, packed with conventional lube, and has an exclusion seal to prevent coolant entering and causing a bearing failure. How these additives get past these obstacles to lube etc. is a mystery when there is a weep hole to alert you to coolant getting past the seal.
hey, that rock hurt
thats why i said "i hear" ive never had a problem

maybe the little air bubbles can get past the seal, air is thinner than water, i dont know, just heard it. i do know that antifreeze has lube, whats it for?
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pishta
Oh man, My PH was backwards? Oh well, I do know that Drano is highly basic and the other side is acidic and you mix the two and you get salt water..OK, I agree.

??????????????????????????????????????
im confused or stupid
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  #12  
Old 03-23-2005, 01:43 AM
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Fugetabatit.....
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  #13  
Old 03-23-2005, 01:50 AM
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took awhile, but i got er
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Old 03-23-2005, 03:46 PM
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Ram318RT Ram318RT is offline
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Idea

Rejoice, I can use some science here!

When you mix a proper ratio of anything basic and anything acidic, you can produce a salt water.

For instance, if you mix HCl (Hydrocholric acid) and NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) together in the right proportions, the H+ and the OH- will combine to make H2O (water). The Na+ and Cl- will combine to make NaCl (common table salt).

So, if you mix a proper ratio of vinegar (acetic acid) and Drano, you can get a salt water. Just don't try it at home unless you know what you are doing!

It's good to be a scientist!
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Old 03-23-2005, 04:31 PM
TK TK is offline
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well, im confused, but, your the scientist, be kinda like me talkin bout GBW or GAW, hey! can you answer questions about concrete????? i have a few, if you know about it! (calcium chloride ratio's, ect)
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Old 03-23-2005, 05:03 PM
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I know a bit about concrete. I'm an Illinois Department of Transportation (IDOT) certified tester of concrete and aggregates.
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