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#1
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340 Stroker
Just picked up a 68 340 bare block, all except #6 are standard bore. The caps are also missing. I want to stroke the 340 but cost is a consideration, initially the caps, sleeveing the block, honing, align boring and clearincing the block for the rods will be a hefty price, then comes the rotating assembly. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions?
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#2
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I did not find that the cost of my stroker engine was much more than a regular rebuild. Pistons are no more. Clearancing is a breeze. A stroker crank is $300. Balancing is on how mush work is involved, my crank needed 3 slugs of mallory.
All machining costs are the same. I think you would really enjoy the benefits of a stoker engine. It is great investment |
#3
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Never run a SB but I've never had much luck sleeving a high RPM engine
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#4
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23t, What was you problems with sleeving a high rpm block?
had a sleeve in a 340 block that went to 8500. no problems, well till it spun a rod bearing, but that isn't a sleeve problem you might as well up grade to a better caps. 4bolt. and get a stroker kit. Speed-o-motive has a pretty good price on them. steve |
#5
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I recently purchased a 3.58 340-318 MP crank for $435.00 shipped. Still waiting for pistons, at 60 over it required a custom. The builder says it looks like the crank will need to loose the weight instead of adding metal. That is an advantage of quality pistone. They are light.
I dont know where you can get a $300 crank. I know a warehouse that has/had a 3.61 Norton forged crank 8 bolt flange for a good price. $700 or so. When I checked Callies they had none. |
#6
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George, what do you plan to do with the engine--street, occasional strip blast, full competition? That has a lot to do with the suitability of the block.
You mentioned all the cylinders were std. except one. Can a .030" overbore clean everything up? If it will clean up, .030" is not much of an overbore---I wouldn't want to go as far as .060" but .030" is fine. For moderate HP(no W2, 7,8 or 9 heads), the 2 bolt mains will work fine. And, billet steel caps(2 bolt) would be a good move. As far as cranks go, you can spend a few $$$ or a bunch of $$$ depending on what you want. I think the iron 4" cranks are in the $350 range; or, billet 4" cranks are up to $2800 with all sorts of cranks in between. It's your choice--but you do "get what you pay for". For any stroker, I would recommend you have the crank ground for 2.100" rod journals. Your selection of aftermarket rods/bearings is so much better. And I would recommend aftermarket rods. Again, you can spend $300-400 for rods or $2000 a set---or all sorts of rods in between. Pistons are the same thing. For pure street use, cast pistons are best(less clearance required). If you want forged pistons, select a piston that can use "tight" clearance(in the .004" range). It's best to use a .927" pin(less weight, less cost, better availability, etc.) but it could require a custom piston(because of pin size). Hope this is the type of info you wanted! |
#7
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Sanborn thats exactly the type of info needed, hate to waste a good 340 block want to get it running mostly for street use occasional strip. Around 400 Hp hooked to a 727 with 355-1 gears is curently the thoughts.
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#8
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For a 400 hp combo you wont need a to stroke. I know a combo that made 415. 340, diamond 9.5, Racer Brown ssh-44, 188 J heads, stock rods, w/ ARP, Air Gap.
Finding a good 340 crank was tough for me. I bought one "guaranteed" to be perfect. It was cracked. If you go with a 318 steel and use heavier pistons your looking at adding metal. That stuff aint cheap! |
#9
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You can get the stroker cranks for small mopar for around $300-350 from scat,MP or ohio cranks.Oh yeah Ohio cranks even have steel stroker cranks for $595 if they are in stock.I would use one of there cranks but i am using a callies with chevy 2.100 rod jounals.Building a W7 engine.
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