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  #1  
Old 05-11-2005, 11:45 PM
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Drews'70 Drews'70 is offline
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Default Pressure plate seems odd

Hey guys. After working all winter on my RR, got it all back together, engine and trans rebuilt and a new heavy duty clutch and pressure plate. Heavy duty is an understatement. My left leg is getting bigger than the right. Theres something binding when I press in the cluctch pedal. I've eliminated every thing and am at the pressure plate. There is one release lever that comes in contact with the bearing before the others. I'm pretty sure this is it. I can hold the bearing tight against that lever and press where another lever is and it cocks over a bit. The shaft that the bearing rides on is new so thats not it. Anyone seen this before? I can't remember the make of the clutch assembly but the part# is BU1767 if that helps. I really wanted to get a Centerforce but had already sunk mega bucks into the car.
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Old 05-12-2005, 12:14 AM
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Biggrin

Sounds like one of the fingers is higher that the other two. Do they have adjustment screws on them?
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Old 05-12-2005, 07:53 AM
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Biggrin

Time for a new pressure plate. Don't use a centerforce either. Those are diaphram plates. Mopars need the Borg and Beck units with 3 fingers. The centerforce is a weaker pressure plate that wont hold up to the abuse that a good Mopar engine will put out. That's why they use Borg and Beck for stock cars. Even behind 318 3spd and 4spd cars.
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Old 05-12-2005, 03:42 PM
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hello, try using a mcleod B&B/long pressure plate. this is a borg & beck hat with long style fingers. these work very well, you can have lower static pressure and they have c/w on fingers for lock up. just food for thought.
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:03 PM
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Biggrin

There's also Borg and Beck plates that have roller assist that makes it easier on your knees without loosing holding power.

perfmachst, that's the same one your talking about, right?
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:43 PM
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Dick was asking if it had adjustment to it so I had a look and there is an 11/16 nut there but is notched so you arent supposed to. But I did and it did adjust and did bring the finger away from the bearing so they all seem to touch evenly. This did not fix the binding. DWC the clutch, pressure plate and bearing are all new and is a Borg and Beck. Now that I see the name I remember. The binding is not there if I push the pedal fast only slowly. Just seems there is something that needs lube. Any other ideas? Oh, the fork and pivot L shaped thiing that bolts to the inside seem fine with no bends, or dings.
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:48 PM
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Biggrin

Those bolts should not be turning at all. I'd pull it and make them trade it for another new one. There may be other problems with it and it's not worth a clutch explosion. How's the plastic bushings in the Z bar?? It should be straight and level and move freely if all the rods are unhooked from it.
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:55 PM
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Biggrin

You mentioned that the shaft the bearing rode on was new. Are you referring to the input shaft? If so, is it burred up in any way? Are you sure the bellhousing and/or the transmission case aren't cocked in some way? Is the pressure plate evenly torqued? How is the throwout fork? Are both ears even?
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  #9  
Old 05-12-2005, 10:40 PM
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Dick, he's talking about the bearing retainer that the throw out bearing slides on which should have a very slight amount of grease on it. That bolt on the PP should not move. It should be staked by the factory. That's what has me worried about it.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:19 PM
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Makes you wonder if he got new parts or remans. I would also look at the fork to see if it is bent or worn. Something sounds out of square.
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  #11  
Old 05-13-2005, 07:22 AM
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Biggrin

That's possible since the fork just hooks in there on that thin piece of metal behind it. IT could have been bent during removal. Also check the tranny mount. Ther tranny could be skewed to one side jamming the Z bar, or transfere link as it's called, at the bellhousing.
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2005, 02:42 PM
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i had a hays borg & beck style that had one of the finger adjustment lock
nuts back out on me. it did the same thing as you described.
listen to dwc: take that thing out and get an exchange - even if the binding
problem is occuring elsewhere. good luck
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  #13  
Old 05-13-2005, 04:11 PM
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DWC, the zbar does have some slop in it. And yes it was the bearing retainer I was refering to that was new. The only things that were not new were the fork and nylon bushings in the zbar. Really great replies fellas. I'll check on the alignment issues also. Gotta get to the bottom of this, something aint right here. If needed, are new fork and zbar bushings available from M.P.? If not where? Many thanks for the help guys.
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Old 05-13-2005, 05:18 PM
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hello, NO!!!!, look in the mcleod catalog. the B&B hat has ford long style fingers in it. you can add C/W to the fingers. the lever ratio is better with the long fingers installed. the regular B&B has way too much pressure to make it work. I use the B&B/long clutch in a drag car, works very well. and will work very good on the street.
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2005, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drews'70
DWC, the zbar does have some slop in it. And yes it was the bearing retainer I was refering to that was new. The only things that were not new were the fork and nylon bushings in the zbar. Really great replies fellas. I'll check on the alignment issues also. Gotta get to the bottom of this, something aint right here. If needed, are new fork and zbar bushings available from M.P.? If not where? Many thanks for the help guys.
Z bar is not available but the bushings are. You can get them in a kit with the mounting studs or get them seperatley. Same thing used on my RamCharger 4x4. Just have your dealer look them up under a mid to late '80's Ramcharger. I think I paid $20 last year for a set of 4. The fork should be fine. I'd be more worried about replacing that Pressure plate that has the bolts backing off. It may have broken a spring or have some mismatched parts in it. I'd get it swapped out first.
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  #16  
Old 05-13-2005, 07:42 PM
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That was the plan; to replace the pressure plate on account of the one finger being out closer to the bearing. I think I will look into the long fingered plate while I'm at it. Thanks for setting me straight on the centerforce. It was my understanding these were good units. B&B are better priced anyhow.
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  #17  
Old 05-13-2005, 10:57 PM
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Biggrin

Welcome, anytime.
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2005, 05:34 PM
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just go buy a centreforceII pressure plate, or if you can afford it, a centreforce dual friction unit. either way you will have a clutch that won't slip at high power levels, and they have light pressure on the pedal. these clutches work great. someone mentioned not to use them-he may have had a problem with a specific one but I've never seen one of these that wasn't outstanding. just my 2 cents................djs
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2005, 11:25 PM
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Biggrin

Mopar even tells you not to use the centerforce clutch. I'll take there advice and pass and use a better Borg and Beck unit.
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  #20  
Old 05-17-2005, 03:07 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
Mopar even tells you not to use the centerforce clutch. I'll take there advice and pass and use a better Borg and Beck unit.
Where did you get that info? Did "Mopar" mention Centerforce specifically or diaphram clutches in general? Exact source.
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  #21  
Old 05-17-2005, 08:50 PM
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in the past i've used both b&b and diaphragm designs behind my 440.
the b&b was a hays 2,750#, and the diaphragm was a mcleod 3,000#.
the diaphragm was a big improvement. i've read they're great for hard
street use and some street/strip action. beyond that, the book i read
recommended the hybrid borg and beck with the long-style fingers for
hardcore racing. just two cents i've learned.
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  #22  
Old 05-18-2005, 05:12 PM
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The folks I know that have tried diaphram style have all thought they were great, with no issues. As in everything else, I think brand is a major issue. Those who buy Mcleod or Hayes (any style) seem to have almost no problems, but the ones that get Centerforce or Ram have all kinds of issues.

My Mcleod street twin is B&B long style and works great,but it takes every millimeter of linkage and pedal travel to get the right adjustments.
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  #23  
Old 05-18-2005, 11:22 PM
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Biggrin

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Kunkel
Where did you get that info? Did "Mopar" mention Centerforce specifically or diaphram clutches in general? Exact source.
diaphram clutches
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  #24  
Old 05-19-2005, 04:07 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
diaphram clutches

What's the exact source?

Were you aware that many Mopar products use diaphram clutches off the showroom floor?
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