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Old 05-16-2005, 10:24 PM
71dart666 71dart666 is offline
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Default Ticking sound at idle

My 318 makes and has been making since I got it running a slight ticking sound at idle. At first it turns out I had the wrong gaskets on the headers so I changed them, torqued the headers down ect after the engine had warmed up a few times and it didnt seem to make a difference.. I am starting to think its something other then an exaust leak. Its very noticable when the car just idles but the sound seems to stay for the most part as I rev it up. You know the clicking sound you hear when the turn signal clicker goes ? it sounds almost exactly like that. It certianly doesnt get worse when the engine gets revved up ALOT so I am pretty sure its not a rod or some major valvetrain problem. Does this sound like a lifter perhaps? I have crane cam fast bleed lifters a comp cams extreme energy camshaft roughly 470 lift 218 duration@.50.
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:02 PM
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LA360Dart LA360Dart is offline
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Default Could be comp lifters

Hi 71dart666

A friend has a 340 Duster, that he did a top end on, used compcams cam and lifters. the lifters have always had and to this day still have an annoying ticking noise. The fast bleed type of lifter will tick some worse than others. I ran the rhoads lifters in a small block once and they were noticable at idle but quiet otherwise...

Denny
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:05 PM
71dart666 71dart666 is offline
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Yeah, the thing is though the rate of the tick doesnt seem to match up with the RPM. Its alot slower like maybe 4 or 5 times a second.. that might be indicative of just one lifter or something no ?
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Old 05-17-2005, 06:11 PM
michaelmopar michaelmopar is offline
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sounds like our 318's are related lol. i changed cam and did a top end and it did not make ticking at first but after cam and heads broke in it stated ticking at cold then when warm it would stop and then every once in awhile it would tick at idle. i called a buddy of mine and he told me on the 318 they ran as much as 9.8:1 compression from the factory depending upon heads and when you go get a valve job they shave the heads and then with the cam and lifters the factory rocker arms are not consistent to the factory setup due to modifications head mill cleanup and new gasket and new lobe ramp so he told me to get adjustable rocker arms and get used to adjusting them every six months or so and would you believe it he was right no anoying tick anymore.
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:50 PM
71dart666 71dart666 is offline
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Thats interesting.. my heads had been resurfaced and I have new gaskets obviously on them. They were never milled, by the way they are the swirlport heads casting # 302. Would that make any difference? is the ticking something I should be concerned with then or it ifs just a slight inconsistency in the valvetrain would I then not need to really worry about at least not anytime soon?
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Old 05-18-2005, 02:18 AM
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TrashedCharger TrashedCharger is offline
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Default Knock knock...

You should check your lifter preload and rod length. Are you sure that the noise is not RPM sensitive? Even if it has a slower rate, does it move slower or faster with any RPM change?

You should also check your rockers and shafts for any irregularities. If you have a distorted shaft or rocker, it would make your preload off on one or more of your lifters.

You might check for bent pushrods as well. It sounds stupid, but with any incorrect preload it can eat a rod fast.
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:03 AM
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hmm....I had lifter ticking on my 318 from cold starts for about the first couple of years of driving it. It doesnt tick anymore, just kinda stopped on its own.
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Old 05-18-2005, 04:06 PM
michaelmopar michaelmopar is offline
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Default tick,tick

mine are the 302 heads also. anytime you get a valve job they mill the heads a little to clean them up. and the factory installed gasket is a .030 with 302 heads. this is straight from the spec cards from the factory. the cc chambers are approx 58cc. so when they mill/clean up the heads they take about .010 off and when you use a autopart store oem gasket you are using approx. a .040 to .050 gasket so with the .010 plus the increase of .010 to .020 on the gasket you are close to a .010 to .020 increase in preload. if you already have them preloaded to approx .040 then add .010 to .020 you increase the preload and now you are running the lifters even tighter than factory specs and that can wear down a lobe even cause the oil to drain out of the lifters at shutdown like overnight. once the engine warms up the lifters pump back up. and as for the guy who stated his tapped for a couple of years then stopped that is because the lobe wore down and then the lifter preload dropped. so then the oil did not drain out as much. anytime you go outside of factory settings the cam, lifters, and rockers are all sensitive due to the fact they cannot be adjusted you could shim them but that is to much of a risk adjustable rocker arms will fix the problem.
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Old 05-18-2005, 07:52 PM
71dart666 71dart666 is offline
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The noise is definatly related to engine RPM, but it doesnt get worse at all at high rpm...What Michaelmopar said seems to make sense, maybe ill go with some adjustable rocker arms and that way I can throw on some 1.6:1 rocker arms in the process. Before this I was thinking it was either a screwed up lifter or an exaust leak.. exaust leak seems very unlikely at this point. One other thing.. my rocker arms ride on the shaft and when I assembled the engine I noticed that some of the rocker arms could slide sideways alittle bit here and there, now they are already very very close to eachother stock. Could it be that the rocker arms are rubbing eachother a bit ?
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmopar
mine are the 302 heads also. anytime you get a valve job they mill the heads a little to clean them up. and the factory installed gasket is a .030 with 302 heads. this is straight from the spec cards from the factory. the cc chambers are approx 58cc. so when they mill/clean up the heads they take about .010 off and when you use a autopart store oem gasket you are using approx. a .040 to .050 gasket so with the .010 plus the increase of .010 to .020 on the gasket you are close to a .010 to .020 increase in preload. if you already have them preloaded to approx .040 then add .010 to .020 you increase the preload and now you are running the lifters even tighter than factory specs and that can wear down a lobe even cause the oil to drain out of the lifters at shutdown like overnight. once the engine warms up the lifters pump back up. and as for the guy who stated his tapped for a couple of years then stopped that is because the lobe wore down and then the lifter preload dropped. so then the oil did not drain out as much. anytime you go outside of factory settings the cam, lifters, and rockers are all sensitive due to the fact they cannot be adjusted you could shim them but that is to much of a risk adjustable rocker arms will fix the problem.
I hate to disagree but I do with the 1st part. When you mill/resurface the heads your taking off material not adding. This does add to lifter preload but when you install thicker aftermarket gaskets your back to square one (or close). The part about aftermarket gaskets being thicker is correct. If you mill off .010 and use a .010 thicker aftermarket gasket (felpro is .042 compressed for example) your right back where you started. There is one other thing not mentioned that affects valve train geometry and that's when the valves are ground they set deeper in the seat so that causes more lifter preload. Some machine shops set the valve stem height, some don't.

It could be just the fast bleed lifters or another problem I saw was I had a set of headers once that hairline cracks around where the tubes welded to the flange which causesd a tick like this. I thought first it was gaskets and took them off and cleaned them up and replaced the gaskets and had the same thing. 2nd time I took them off I inspected them closer and when I held them up to light I could see the hairline cracks around the tube welds. Welded them up and no more tick.
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:23 AM
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It's a shot in the dark, but have you checked your torque converter bolts? You'd be surprised how slow of a tick it is at idle when one starts making contact, and it actually got a little quieter on mine as it revved up - until it tore out, of course. I guess the crank was moving back in the block. Just a thought.
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Old 05-20-2005, 07:50 PM
71dart666 71dart666 is offline
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Hmmm.. could be the issue, the sound does kinda seem like its inside the dash or close to the interior of the car. Converter bolts are in the right place to make that happen. Ill have to check that, thanks.
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