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#1
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65 cuda w/ 440?
Hey guys, Does anybody know if my set-up will go in a 65 cuda (see set-up below). I wonder if the cppa headers will fit. How about tilt front ends for a 65 cuda? I wrecked the duster ( second gear got away from me, and I killed a brick mailbox with the ass-end) but I found a decent 65 cuda. Needs a decklid and a left front fender. Let me know what you guys think,... Thanks for any, and all replys
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#2
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I think the 65 Cuda's have the narrow engine bays (i could be wrong, but my memory usually serves pretty well), a 440ci in there would be very tight, fenderwell headers would likely be a must.
Anyone have the dimensions between the strut towers on these ol' Abody's? |
#3
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The frame rails and inner fenders in early A-bodies ('66 & older) have about 1.5" lesss space between them. Underchassis headers like TTI's or Schumachers are no can do. I have had a couple of those cars with RB engines, both utilized self made fenderwell headers. The other even had the inner fenders intact, but had had the engine moved slightly forward. Some ready fenderwells made for '67 and later might be pretty easy to fit in to the early cars, but I built my own. The trans tunnel is a bit too small for a 727 if the engine is reatained in the stock position, some clearancing may be required and is not a bad idea for maintenance anyway. Of course you need brakes in the car that can handle the power, heavy duty suspension is a plus, you need bigger rear axle for longevity and better cooling system. Despite of all this hassle, it's very well worth doing. Here is a pic of my old '66's engine bay, the inner fenders were removed and new ones built from aluminum and the right side shock tower modified slightly to make more room.
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#4
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Yeah, what DartGT said. Ill add that ProParts (Mazzolini) semi fenderwell headers are about as close to a bolt in as I have found, just section the #8 tube about 2 inches and figure out the driver side pitman arm/torsion bar setup. If you go all out and add a tilt-up, go with coils up front and ditch the torsion bars, plenty of room to be had without those pesky bars! Might as well get some custom shock braces fabbed and remove the inner fenders as well. With all that new room, I bet a cheapy set of B-Body blackjacks would fit with little mods. The 383/400 is a bit narrower and those ProParts fit them a little worse as the 4/6 tubes hit the oil pan rail, a little dinging would fix that. Clearance under the car is going to be tight unless you mod the trans crossmember to have a cutout on the passenger side as well as the driver side. My 3 inch collectors are about 3 inches off the ground where they go under the stock cross member. The tunnel has to be clearanced where the seam is with a big hammer, or a custom tunnel would work, just be sure you weld the whole thing in as it is an integral part of the frameless chassis. A 4 speed tunnel is a little bigger. Get a better radiator too. 3/4 core wall to wall out f a Cherokee is what I run with a big fan (watch the trans lines!) and a pusher up front. No power brakes or power steeing unless you run headers like Dart's. Hi-Po manifolds are about a 9 out of 10 fit, just grind down the steering column where you think it might hit and change the ball and socket coupler to a slimmer U-joint or a straight coupler. I ended up spacing the K with 3/4 nuts and it helped alot with tunnel clearance. Tie the subframes together and get a better rear. You cant tub the rears unless you remove the backseat or section that as well. Not the easiest chassis to do this with, but probably one of the lightest! Ill post a recent pic of my 451 '65 A tonight for examples.
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#5
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Cool answers. Just what I was needing to hear. The more I think about that little 65, the more I like the idea. I figure you gotta be nuts to put a 440 in duster, a 65 cuda is just that much worse. I'd like to put the coil overs on front, and loose the t-bars, put a new tunnel in it. It would be cool to move the engine back. Roll cage, tubs, 4-link, well, I could go on and on...
Can't wait for the pics! Got any times so I can get an idea? Thanks for the replys guys! |
#6
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Call Headers By Ed. They aren't cheap; however, they can build you a perfect pair of fender well headers.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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My '66 had a weight distribution of 53% in front, 47% rear with the iron block. With the aluminum block it was 51/49. The engine was first a pump gas 493 and later a 528 with the 4.5" bore, the car weighed 3310 lbs with the driver, had a 8" converter, 4.10 sure grip rear and 13.5/30/15 DOT tires. I had problems with converters slipping, having thought about it later I propably should have used a bigger diameter one because of the low rpm nature of the enigne. It peaked at 6600 rpm and made over 700 ft-lb of torque, which are not figures good for a 8". It usually run low 10's in street trim, but with a certain ATI converter it run the best ET's of 9.69/142.5 mph, naturally aspirated & pump gas.
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#9
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Under the "better late than never" category...I didnt even realize my cap was off, Probably why it didnt start last night! Photo 2 is the money shot, notice the 1/4 inch clearance between the header and the jigsaw puzzle inner fender. Im going to add some tubular shock supports and make a wider inner fender, like our Finnish friend..but it still wont help where the A-arm bushings are , they cant be moved.
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#10
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Try Big Block Dart .Com I saw an early Valiant there with a 440 in it. Same as the early "Cuda.
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