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  #1  
Old 07-28-2005, 05:55 PM
73scamp318 73scamp318 is offline
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Default Which headers?

im about to buy some new headers, which ones? hedmans or hookers? TTI's are to expensive, i just can't justify $600 for a set of headers unless they are way way better.

thanks
steve
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  #2  
Old 07-28-2005, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73scamp318
im about to buy some new headers, which ones? hedmans or hookers? TTI's are to expensive, i just can't justify $600 for a set of headers unless they are way way better.

thanks
steve
there has been alot of debate over which brand to use...as far as looks go I hear the TTI's are the best but for power you can get a set of coated hookers or hedmans that will last. I read an article about a shootout for mopar header an there wasnt a huge gap in performance for any of them except the shorties. Trust me it is worth getting the coated ones. Most of us want a nice looking underhood....I got the "painted" hooker supercomps, they sound great, perform great (really good on toward the top end)... and look like shit (all rusty). Mine were $300 I think and the coating would have been another $200 (roughly)...I would have been so much better off with the coated headers...My underhood looks pretty good down to my rusty old headers....that just ruins it, but you get what you pay for.
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  #3  
Old 07-28-2005, 07:20 PM
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in my opinion, the TTI headers are worth it. they actually fit, first of all. no need to dimple, cut, bang, pry, or any other such maladies. secondly, the small block a-body headers (im assuming that that is the application) are stepped, which in theory will provide a broader torque curve. third, they are much easier to live with. they dont trap the starter like the hookers or heddmans, they dont require suspension removal for installation, and they dont hang down at speedbump scraping height. when i pulled my headmans off my duster (which was at stock ride height with stiff t-bars) the driverd side primary tubrs were smashed flat by speedbumps, driveways, beercansm ants, etc. theyre that low.
so yeah, i know the TTI are expensive. and expensive hurts. but expensive now is happier later.
also, look into doug thorley headers. ive heard they fit almost as well as th TTI stuff.
Michael
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2005, 03:41 PM
skankweirdall skankweirdall is offline
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Called doug thorley he said that he hasn't made in in 6 years, poor fit and such, im thinking maybe just the TTI's

steve
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2005, 04:38 PM
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I used to think the TTi's were too expensive! Then I bought a set of Hooker Super comps. After they wouldn't fit (with my combo) I had to buy the TTi's. $$$hooker + $$$TTi = my dumb a$$!

Later,

Greg
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  #6  
Old 07-29-2005, 05:03 PM
rellik eeb rellik eeb is offline
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I also agree that the TTI's are well worth the money. I have ran bout every header out there, the fit is great, I running the 2-2 1/8th stepped header for Indy heads in a 69 B body, the fit is awsome, first time I ever installed a set of headers without scratching them. There of high quality also. Antoher headers worth mentioning is the schumacher Tri-Y headers, although there not very performance oriented, the quality and fit is great too. I had to dent the Hooker Comps to fit the same engine in my car now, when i was running Edelbrock heads on my 500.
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2005, 08:16 AM
73scamp318 73scamp318 is offline
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well shipped is $650 for ceramic coated, not to bad, i guess. Ill know once i put them on.
these headers, magnum heads and a m1 intake im hoping to make 300+ (stock '86 roller cam)


Thanks
steve
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2005, 09:00 PM
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It would be worth considering the ones with the "thermal barrier" inside coating. It helps keep rust from forming inside while maintaining a smoother surface for optimum flow, and will reduce radiant heat even more!

I put a set on my Dart Sport for this season and love 'em! No more need for a right angle oil filter adapter, less mess during oil changes, starter can be removed without loosening the headers and they allow the use of the deep Milodon pans on small blocks. Some of the other headers don't because they hit the right-rear of the sump where it's flared out. Installation was easier than expected!
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2005, 01:31 AM
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fastmopars .inc fastmopars .inc is offline
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i believe the price of the headers should be appropriate with the rest of the combo. if your car is a junkyard dog with a budget why would you need headers worth more than 150 bucks? up until a certain threshold all headers will be worth a substantial gain over stock manifolds.
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2005, 07:05 PM
riquiscott riquiscott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastmopars .inc
i believe the price of the headers should be appropriate with the rest of the combo. if your car is a junkyard dog with a budget why would you need headers worth more than 150 bucks? up until a certain threshold all headers will be worth a substantial gain over stock manifolds.
Good point about almost ANY headers being an improvement over stock manifolds.

I don't think that the benefits of the the high-dollar headers come solely from increased performance, though. In some cases, I think the extra cost gets you improvements in things like easier fitment, more leak-resistance, better fit and finish, and increased longevity.
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  #11  
Old 07-31-2005, 09:56 PM
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AMEN!!! this has been universally true in my experience. you hit it right on, man.
michael
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2005, 02:33 PM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastmopars .inc
i believe the price of the headers should be appropriate with the rest of the combo. if your car is a junkyard dog with a budget why would you need headers worth more than 150 bucks? up until a certain threshold all headers will be worth a substantial gain over stock manifolds.
The substantial gain is not proven in practice with emission engines. A test in Mopar Muscle showed gains in HP ranged from 3-17 HP over high performance factory manifolds. Headers back in the day was a big improvement because most engines were rich and the headers leaned them out, with todays engines running as lean as possible, $600.00 is a big chunk of change for the TTIs which showed the 17 HP gain.
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  #13  
Old 08-02-2005, 02:57 PM
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NZ 440R/T NZ 440R/T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmopar
I used to think the TTi's were too expensive! Then I bought a set of Hooker Super comps. After they wouldn't fit (with my combo) I had to buy the TTi's. $$$hooker + $$$TTi = my dumb a$$!

Greg

ROFLMAO!!!


I have tti's in the Challenger (440cid).
They fit perfectly and look great, I'm sure they perform as well as they look.


Also depends, what car is it for, daily driver, show race?
Why you ask...becuase if you not wanting to spend $600 on a good set you may as well just stick to manifolds.
You pay for what you get. Nothing is to expensive for my car.
See gregs comment above for one of the many reasons.....


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  #14  
Old 08-02-2005, 04:34 PM
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I have a set of coated hedmans sitting in the garage. I am going to install them on a 75 dart swinger with a 318. Should I expect problems? If so, what kind?
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:36 PM
73scamp318 73scamp318 is offline
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i already have headers on the car they are just smashed and twisted at the flange so i wanted to upgrade to a non-smashed set. i decided with the hedmans as im planning on adding a single turbo this winter. Why spend $650 when ill have to replace them? im going to use a set of stainless steel truck shorty headers turned around. ill make sure to take lots of pictures for others that might be intrested.

steve
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  #16  
Old 08-03-2005, 10:02 AM
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fastback340 fastback340 is offline
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Ive said it before and I'll say it again. People will spend tons of cash on a great motor then stick cheap headers and a crappy converter on it. Spend the cash once and do it right. TTIs cost more for a reason.
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  #17  
Old 08-03-2005, 09:58 PM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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Can anyone post some flow numbers in CFM for the TTIs or any other header?
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2005, 10:54 PM
riquiscott riquiscott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George G. Leverette
Can anyone post some flow numbers in CFM for the TTIs or any other header?
Is there even an industry-standard pressure to use if you wanted to flow-test headers? The only method I've heard of for evaulating exhaust performance is to measure the backpressure directly using a gauge. For a high-performance exhaust, I think 5 psi is supposed to be the limit at full-throttle, with lower numbers being better. If your mufflers are installed when you do the test, they'll obviously have an effect on backpressure as well.
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  #19  
Old 08-04-2005, 09:14 PM
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Related to flow, it's not just what a header will flow when new, but also during the following year, and year after that, etc. A good, quality internal coating will help maintain a smooth surface for better flow for a longer time! The bonus is an extra heat barrier to keep the heat in the tubes. Once the tubes start to rust inside, flow goes down.

Other factors associated with header quality is the tube thickness. Needless to say, the thicker they are, the longer they will last. Also, the better they fit, the less "modifications" you have to make. Start "dinging" headers for clearance, and flow goes down!
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2005, 07:29 AM
73scamp318 73scamp318 is offline
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Well i got them on after about 5 hours. The old ones wouldn't come out (summit brand). but the hedmans went right in, no problems, no dinging to make them fit!

steve
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  #21  
Old 08-05-2005, 07:55 AM
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I have succesfully welded a pair of "wedges" below the K-member to both corners of the oil pan area to be the lowest part of the vehicle; they prevent from smashing the heders or oil pan to the gorund.
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  #22  
Old 08-08-2005, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim13
I have a set of coated hedmans sitting in the garage. I am going to install them on a 75 dart swinger with a 318. Should I expect problems? If so, what kind?
I just swapped a 360 into my 68 Barracuda (4spd car) less than a month ago and used Hedman headers. I had absoultly no fitmet issues. None of the tubes came close to hitting anything. The only trouble some area was getting at the bolts behind a couple of the tubes but Hedman provided reduced size bolts so it was really only a matter of socking them down a 1/4 of a turn at a time.

Before I installed then I stripped the black paint off and coated them with VHT's ceramic header coating. Granted they do hang low but if it becomes an issue I will do what I did to my \6 headers, weld on a strip of metal to act as a skid plate.
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  #23  
Old 08-08-2005, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastback340
Ive said it before and I'll say it again. People will spend tons of cash on a great motor then stick cheap headers and a crappy converter on it. Spend the cash once and do it right. TTIs cost more for a reason.
As he is planning on going with turbos, the TTI headers would be a waste of money. Would you want to cut up $650 headers for turbos?

For his use, the Hedmans are a decent temp, until he goes with the shorties and turbos.
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  #24  
Old 07-06-2006, 07:50 PM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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OK finished installing the TTI exhaust system from the back to the headers. The system was easy to install if pulling the passenger side torsion bar is considered easy. The headers are a tight fit and the engine must be level and at factory specs to prevent interference with the steering linkage. The sound is throaty but not loud, just the way it should be. Performance is still a question mark, removed a set of 2" duals and added the TTIs with ceramic coated headers with thermal barrier and X-pipe in the exhaust system. No seat of the pants increase felt although TTIs states a 20% gain over stock manifolds. I am satisfied with the TTIs because they complete the exhaust "system" and now to the next mod on the 74 Duster.
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  #25  
Old 07-06-2006, 11:59 PM
Satty71 Satty71 is offline
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If I was doing a good build up I would recomend some TTI's or equal brand. I recently installed some headmans in my rod and it was quite a long process. Problems were, I had to convert to a floor shift, had to get a shorter oil filter, and also had to remove the drag link. Also I had to remove the passenger t bar to get the thing in the car. Once it was installed we heated them up and bent them down. Last mod was I had to grind the heads down on two of the header bolts so they would go in straight because the recess in the pipes where they meet the flange wasn't big enough. No complaints now that they are in but like I said what a process.
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