Anyone know if these rods are any good?

[Tarrbabe]

Part No. eagSIR6123CB Manufacturer EAGLE
Car Make MOPAR Component Engine Sm Block V8, Connecting Rods
Eagle SIR series 5140 steel I beam connecting rod set for small block Mopar engines. These rods are stronger than a stock rod, while at the same time being lighter. These rods are bushed for use with floating pin pistons and include ARP Wave Lok bolts. They are the stock sbm V8 length of 6.123" and use the stock pin size of .984". These fit the 273, 318, 340, 360 and stroker engines based on these designs.
Price: $269.95 $251.05

[DAHEMIKOTA]

Make sure to check the side clearance. Also you have to have retainers in the pistons to keep the piston pins in place.Other than that they are supposed to be good. Eagle rods were used in the 528 HEMI and they had about .125" side clearance. I think Mopar saved some money and used off the shelf Chevy rods in that engine. Dan

[LA360Dart]

Hi Tarrbabe;

One of the magazine guy's used these in a 340 with W2 heads and a ported tunnel ram and one of the rods failed at 640Hp at over 7500 RPM. So long as the engine is not to wild you should be fine...

denny

[George G. Leverette]

I intend to use those rods in my 340 stroker motor.

[perfmachst]

hello, used them in a 318, runs 7200 to 7500 rpm lots, 340, at 7000 rpm,
two other 340's, 7000 rpm plus. no problems at all. had one 340 with crank failure, two rods together 5&6 were still attached to journal and were bent almost a 90 degree angle. didn't break. I think piston weight is very critical for long rod life. just food for thought, a very good rod.

[ShelbyZ-TII]

I'm using a set in my 318 build. I got mine from Mancini, $240 for the set. Seemed good for a lower-cost build and they were just a little more than getting a set of stock rods redone with ARP bolts.

[Tarrbabe]

I'm tempted to go with them over having my stock 340 rods rebuilt. I know the 340's are heavy compaired to them but the 340 rods are very strong. They would have to be to pull and push that big 800 and something gram stock piston around.
As I aready said, I'm going to run the Ross 514 gram piston so the rods should be fine with what I'm doing.

[sanborn]

Tarrbabe, you have the right idea----the lighter the piston---the less stress is placed on the connecting rod. Don't forget about the piston pin---lighter is better also.

Actually connecting rods seldom fail "instantly", they usually fail over many revolutions under high stress loads---beyond their designed capapbility. They begin to stretch, then recover, then stretch, etc., until a crack appears then POW!

The secret of good, race rods is the material---but it's the heat treatment that really determines how good a rod is under race conditions. You can lay an H beam Eagle rod($40) beside a Carillo($220). They look identical, supposedly made out of the same material. But, Carillos will last hundreds of laps on a Nascar engine(then be sold as used parts) whereas the Eagles probably wouldn't make it off the dyno. What's the difference? The only difference I know of is "heat treatment". Carillos go through six difference heat treatments, Eagles go through how many? Probably one or two at the most---who knows, maybe none.

Just keep the piston as light as possible. Keep the RPM moderate(no 9000 blasts) and you will probably be just fine.

[Ray Bell]

Not that Carillos are flawless, of course...

A friend of mine bought a set of twelve for his Jaguar V12 engine, which was what you might call a 'very long term' project. Some five years later he got them out of the cupboard and found that they all had a twist to them.

Carillo denied it was possible... but I know Kevin and his flair for being deadly accurate. If he said they were twisted, they were twisted.

[sanborn]

Ray, anything is possible. No matter how many "attaboys" a brand of anything gets----there is an occasional "Aw S---t".

I've owned 7-8 sets in the past 5 years---all were flawless. But, in fairness they were standard journal, pin size and length.

[dgc333]

I used them in my 360 build. It was actually about $20 cheaper than having the stock rods reworked with ARP bolts. I got mine from Mancini for $227.

NOTE: these rods and the KB107 pistons I used are quite a bit lighter than stock parts and it required about 200 grams be removed from each end of the crank to balance the roataing assembly. If you go with light parts you need to balance the roataing assembly

[73scamp318]

I would go with scat h-beam rods. Or even stock rods. $300 for the scat h-beams, and ive only heard good things about them.

steve

[Tarrbabe]

But just because it is new doesn't make it better. Everyone knows that a block needs to be seasoned to make a good block for racing/hp. But I also beleive any metal being twisted or shaped in any way can gain from heat cycles. I feel the heating and cooling can relax any unwanted tenisions and prevent problems. Think about it, if a part fails, it's usually right after it is installed.
I have already bought my new ARP Rod Bolts before I found the rods.

Just thinking out loud.

[Tarrbabe]

that to a 1200 lb race horse, a 115 lb jocky is an after thought.

[toad490]

Originally Posted by Tarrbabe

that to a 1200 lb race horse, a 115 lb jocky is an after thought.

FYI: In handicap races weight is assigned too even the feild, one pound of extra weight on a 1200 lb race horse is generally equal to one lenght over a one mile race. Thats why you don't see too many 125 lb jockies.