Cuda traction question?

[JoeGrapes]

I take my '70 440 Cuda to our local 1/8 mile track now and then. I've been running 8.7 at 85 mph. 4 speed, 3.91 gears with street tires. Ok, I have these old traction bars that bolt to the springs with clamps on the front and back of the springs. They look like Summit trackion bars. I've bolted them on but I don't know if they will do anything, or do any harm. What do you think? Also, I should use a adjustable pinion snubber, so how far from the floor should I set the snubber? Thanks all.

[pishta]

set the snubber 1/4 inch from the floorboard, those traction bars will do the same as the snubber, they prevent the axle from winding up the springs (bowing the front part of the spring up upon heavy acceleration) an adjustable pinion snubber with the cotter pin is great because you can lower it for the ride home, as every bump will make the snubber hit the floorboard.

[dwc43]

Originally Posted by JoeGrapes

I take my '70 440 Cuda to our local 1/8 mile track now and then. I've been running 8.7 at 85 mph. 4 speed, 3.91 gears with street tires. Ok, I have these old traction bars that bolt to the springs with clamps on the front and back of the springs. They look like Summit trackion bars. I've bolted them on but I don't know if they will do anything, or do any harm. What do you think? Also, I should use a adjustable pinion snubber, so how far from the floor should I set the snubber? Thanks all.

Get rid of them. Mopar tells you not to use them. I've seen them bend the springs and some have seen them break after several laps. Get an adjustable pinion snubber for starters. Remove all the rear spring segment clamps. Go to adjustable drag shocks. Still not enough, get SS springs. After that, only thing left is ladder or 4 link.

[perfmachst]

hello, between S/S springs and ladder bars or four link, is a calvert system. no welding or fabrication needed, bolts in, and works very well. especially in a stick car. they are adjustable, will not bend or twist housings. just food for thought.

[koodah]

an old school racer told me to add 2 leaves to the front half of the leaf springs, and if you have a snubber use it. I did this on my 72 cuda and got much better traction. (did not have a snubber). leaves were cut to about an inch past the axle.

[B1owner]

I removed the rear segment clamps on my duster once. ..dang near killed myself. Just throw out all the stock springs and get a set of super stocks from Mancini.They are only a couple hundred bucks. Unless of course you have money to throw around....get a four link or ladder bars and your car STILL wont go much faster than it did with super stocks.(unless its got a big, BIG hammer under the hood) Ive heard that Cal-tracs are a good addition, but I cant say I know for sure about them.

[mrbill426]

Are the Mopar SS springs a direct bolt-on (E-body), or is there more to it? Do they raise the rear of the car much or at all? Are different shocks and/or shock plates required? What about the U-bolts, are the stock ones long enough for these springs?

I got's me questions

[B1owner]

You will need the longer front hanger for the springs to fit the E body. You should prbably use longer shocks (i didnt). There are different weight capacity springs (ie: #3000, #3600 ect) My brother has #3600 springs on his E and its pretty stiff. He used the lower hole in the front spring hanger so it sits level. One more thing, Ive heard from differtnt people that I know and respect that the springs Mancini sells are of higher quality than some, has anyone else heard this?

[B1owner]

Also your stock u bolts should work .

[ttraut@unlockit]

A couple of years ago, I put new SS springs (from Mancini, I believe) on my 69 RR. They raised the back end about 2 inches. After two years, they've settled in and the height is about 1 in higher than with my old 30-year-old springs.

My springs have Mexico stamped on them.

Before you order, you may wish to try to take your u-bolt clamps off first. My nuts were so rusted on to the bolts (okay, I really didn't want to say that!), that I twisted the bolt right off. You'll probably want to order the u-bolts at the same time.

Terry

[rumblefish360]

The Mopar spring made in Mexico are garbage. My set went from sky high to in the weeds in less than 6 weeks..
If there stamped "made in Mexico" you may wish to reconsider.
The Cal-tracs or Comp enginnering Slide a link work in the same mannor.
The Cal-Tracs also can be purchased with a mono-spring for your car.
Dump the slapper bars under the spring.
The pinion snubber is all you need. 4spd cars get the snubber set between 1/2 inch and zero. Auto cars get more. Not over 2 inchs.

IF you unlease the springs via rear clamp, leave the last one on due to lack of clearance of the rear valance on the Cuda!
Other advice here is sound.

[mrbill426]

So you're saying that the M.P. and Mancini (maybe the same?) springs are all made in Mexico, and will fail?
Who else then makes and sells SS springs?

[B1owner]

[QUOTE=rumblefish360]The Mopar spring made in Mexico are garbage. My set went from sky high to in the weeds in less than 6 weeks..
If there stamped "made in Mexico" you may wish to reconsider."


Im not sure if the last set of supers I bought were made in mexico or not but I had a set of Mexican springs on my Dustpan and they worked great. It did drop about an inch over the years and it looks and works like they should. Depends on who you ask I guess. I wouldnt hesitate to buy another set.

[JoeGrapes]

Thanks for all the help guys. I made up a ajustable pinion snubber at work and bolter it in and took the bars off. I didn't like the way they look anyway. I'll try one change at a time so it's easier to see how they effect the traction. I'm going back to the strip this Tuesday to see how the snubber works. My Cuda is a street, strip and show car so I'm not going all out here. I'm just having fun at the track trying to tweek the car to get it to perform it's best without any major mods. I'll let you know how it does.

[plyguy]

I put a set of 3400# Mopar Super Stock springs (stamped "Made in Mexico")under my '63 Sport Fury. They actually dropped the ride height from where my worn out, broken leaf, 43 year old springs were. As far as removing the "U" clamps I sprayed mine down good with Liquid Wrench and let them soak for a couple weeks and they came right off without any trouble.

I too have been taking my car to our local 1/8mi. strip. The first time I was running in the mid 10's and low 70's. Before the next time I went I installed a pinion snubber and my times improved by @.5 sec. I know this car will run faster. My biggest problem is too much wheel spin off the line. My tires are Lee 2.55 60 15 street tires. I spin them all the way through low gear never really hooking up until I hit 2nd. My 60' times are usually in the 2.4 - 2.6 range. I'm thinking about getting some street legal slicks to see if that helps things. Any other thoughts?

'63 Sport Fury 2dr HT
440 stock heads, Edel. Street Dominator w/ Carter AFB race model carb.
mild 280* Isky cam
727 w/ man. shift kit & 2800 stall conv.
.430 Sure Grip in a 742 case

[JoeGrapes]

plyguy, you have to almost idle it off the line. Heat the tires up a little in the burnout area but not in the water and bring the preasure down to about 18 on the right side and about 22 on the left. If you just mash your foot to the floor as the last yellow goes out you'll just spin. Ease your foot down until the car starts rolling then you go to the floor. You need to take your time at the line, but do it in a hurry.

[plyguy]

I wondered about tire pressure. But didn't know just how low to go. I thought about going out to find a place where I could do some burnouts to see what kind of patterns it was leaving with different pressures but just hadn't gotten around to doing it yet. My 2nd time out I tried starting with the throttle held at @ 1,000 rpm and easing into it a little bit more. I don't do a burnout in the water because I've been told that too much heat will make the radial tires lose traction. I just spin them enough to get rid of the water and put a little heat in them.
Thanks again for the tips. I'll post results from my next outing.

[70Barracuda]

The snubber did not help me. My car wrapped up the springs and blew off the tires. BFG 325 50 Drag radials at 16 lbs. I guess Cal tracs are coming next.

[djswwg]

our 68 charger suffers from poor traction, this is a heavy car (about 4000 lbs with driver) here's the lowdown. 3 weeks ago we tried 2 different sizes of slicks and varied the pressures from 9 to 15 lbs, tried no snubber and then put one in and tried various preloads, the results were as follows; heavy wheelspin regardless of combination.at worst it would spin hard to the 60' light and at best about 40' past the starting line. the best 60' time was 1.70 which gave us a best of 11.53@118. i figure this car should cut 1.55 60' times with zero tire spin. so here's what we did, added a set of CE slide-a-links. the difference on the street is nothing short of amazing. wheelspin with cheesy street tires is cut in half! it's hard to describe how much better it is, you gotta see it to believe it. anyway we're going back to the track next weekend, to try it with slicks. if anyone wants i'll post how they worked.
looking for 11.40's!!!!!!!
..............djs

[plyguy]

Absolutely, keep us posted. I tried the tire pressure recommended by Joe Grapes fri. nite and was able to shave a few 10ths. Ran a best ever 9.49 (1/8 mi.) but the 60' time was still 2.244. So I'm still in the hunt for a few more 10ths.

[mrbill426]

Yes, please keep us informed.

[fastback340]

I wish my made in mexico super stock springs would sag already. They sit 2" higher then the ones I took off. After 4 years they dropeed maybe a half inch.

[rumblefish360]

Great looking car. Don't wish for work. You can add the Cal-Tracs or Comp Slide-a-links with the S/S springs or opt for the mono springs (Cal-Tracs for sure, don't know if Comp has them.) to replace the S/S springs.
Your rake looks great!

[fastback340]

I dont mind the rake, Its the empty space above the tire I dont care for.

[JoeGrapes]

I tried the pinion snubber and while not a big difference I do think it helps. I had a best run of 8.57ET@85.69MPH. My reaction time was good for that run at .528 but my 60ft. time sucked at 2.065. I can get the car off the line without to much wheel spin but when I hit 2nd gear I break the tires loose way to much. I'm just running street BF Goodrich TA radials. I'm going to look into the Cal-Tracks and the Comp Slide-A-Links.

[dwc43]

Originally Posted by JoeGrapes

I tried the pinion snubber and while not a big difference I do think it helps. I had a best run of 8.57ET@85.69MPH. My reaction time was good for that run at .528 but my 60ft. time sucked at 2.065. I can get the car off the line without to much wheel spin but when I hit 2nd gear I break the tires loose way to much. I'm just running street BF Goodrich TA radials. I'm going to look into the Cal-Tracks and the Comp Slide-A-Links.

Don't waste your money. Get some decent rubber under the car first.

[JoeGrapes]

your right about the tires dwc43, I've been wanting to do that all along. That will definetly be the first thing I'm going to do before any tracction bars.

[rumblefish360]

No traction bars. Pinion snubber and S/S springs or Cal-Tracs/Comps slide-a-link and mono springs.