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#1
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Any recipes for a low comp 440?
I have an 8.5 to 1 compression 440 with about 40,000 miles on it. How much power can I pull from this engine with some add ons? Thanks
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#2
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Get with a reputable cam co. tech and tell them your specs, dont lie about anything, they dont care how big your stick is. They can advise you of cams that make cylinder pressure with lo-po slugs and highway gearing. That is a good start. Build the motor around the cam, or the convertor, or whatever, just have 1 constant throughout the whole build and youll be good to go.
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#3
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a couple...
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#4
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Strongly suggest Comp Cam for this one. They can custom grind one if needed. You can call them direct, give them what you have and they will tell you waht to do. You have to buy it through someone like Summit Racing though. Can't buy direct
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#5
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Is the 8.5:1 real, verified? I mean, the factory tratings is one thing, reality is an other. A stock low compression 440 is most likely deep in the 7's. We have built a couple of 440's in mid to high 8 CR's that have performed pretty decently. Like said above, don't go overboard with the cam, a low CR egnine will not respond to a big cam. We did pretty well with a MP 280/.474" cam, but lost some when switched to a 292/.509".
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#6
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Howse about this?, just theorizing, Put on a pair of the closed chamber heads and install them with the thin steel shim head gaskets. That should get you close to a full point of compression, and the engine doesn't have to leave the car. If your engine is in good shape, it'll take the extra squeeze no problem.
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#7
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#8
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Quote:
The factory bore is perfect, no taper and 4.320 on all the cylinders. Think I could get away by picking up some stock bore trw pistons to bump up the compression and avoid the machine shop? I want low buck due to the fact this engine is going into a budget race car. I don't want to dump alot of money into this thing cuz I'm sure in a couple years my wife will get tired of racing. Then I'm stuck with a $5000 engine I have no use for. I just want to move a 3000 pound A body into high 12's or low 13's and not divert money from my challenger fund. |
#9
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the 400 in my 3050# (or more) barracuda is pretty on-the-cheap.
it has 452 heads, shaved about .020. .509 purple shaft torker intake mallory ignition headers 727 with shift kit (TF-2) 3.91 gears 275/50-15 drag radials. with an out-of-the-box 770 cfm Holley Street Avenger (that badly needs tuned), my car ran in the 8.30s (1/8 mile) last month. that's low 13s/high 12s. |
#10
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another really low buck trick I've done a couple times is to advance the cam by 2 or 3 degrees. at 40,000 miles I'll guarantee the stock flat link timing chain has about 41/2 miles or more of slack! so buy a good quality double roller chain kit, and when you install it, advance it a couple of degrees. you have to buy the offset degree shims to do it, but you'll be surprised at the extra performance because you will have increased the cylinder pressure. it's sure not like putting in higher compression pistons and a bigger cam, but you said cheap add-ons............djs
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#11
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My race car weighed 2900lbs...not much lighter than most streetable A bodies.
My 440 had cast crank, stock rods, original 1974 cast pistons. It worked out to 7.8:1 compression. Had almost a 600 lift cam in it, shifted at 6250 with 452 heads with very mild clean up. 4.56 gears and a GOOD convertor. Ran a best of 10.59 but usually ran in the 10.7s with no power adders through a BG carb. Its the total package you need to work on not just the engine. The convertor is the biggest bang for the buck. Think hard where you spend the money cuz it could be wasted if it doesnt get transferred correctly to the rear ..... good luck. |
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