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#1
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low power 360
I just recently swapped out a 318 2-barrel for a 360 four barrel in my 1973 Satellite. It has the basics edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock 600cfm carb, mopar performance harmonic balancer and a full exhaust system. I also have a TCI 904 trany with a TCi torque converter. My problem is it has no get up and go i raced my friends SVT focus and barley beat him. My 318 did that whats wrong with it. I think it might be that i need a cam and some gears. Its has 273 without posi. And it has the orginal cam. Some Please Help :blast:
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#2
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That 2:73 isn't doing you any favors. How is it on the highway in a kickdown situation?
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#3
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low power 360
Its not very good it makes a sort of power serging noise like it get some power then lays off but the petal never moves. any ideas
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#4
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Well, I'll tell ya this, (A month late) Add a 280 duration cam, RPM intake, 750 carb, headers w/2 1-2 exhaust, shift kit and 3.91 gears with 26 inch tires.
Mill heads for a 9.0-1 ratio and bowl port. That will teach him whos boss! And a can of whoop A$$ he'll get. |
#5
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Add a minimum stock 800 CFM Thermoquad to it some headers with 2 1/2 pipes some flowmasters and an X pipe. And put at least a 3.55 gear in it for street use or a 3.23 if you get it on the interstate some. Wanna make some real power, mill the heads .035 and add a 272,276 dual pattern cam.
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#6
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Yeah! Over carburate it by 150cfm's or so............................
I would say leave it alone, and tune it, a stock 4bbl 360 is a good performer. |
#7
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yeah i think my carb is ok. I just got a holley 770 for free that they want me to put on but my dad ran that carb on the 360 in his cuda and he said it didnt help any thing. And it has not been tuned yet. i went to buy the tune up kit with the metering rod and all that fun stuff but I have a electric choke carb and they didn't have a kit for it. they had one for the manual choke 600 does anyone know if that will work to im pretty sure it will. I have to get it i about pass out at a stop light from the fumes and i kill any onethats behind me.
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#8
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Wont turn over
I ve got anew problem now. Now it wont even start. it turns iover but theres no spark. I think i may have messed up the electric ignition. i drove it for month without a hood on it and aal the electri connections i have looked at are corroded. so i cleaned them up. I had to but a new cap and rotor because it was that bad. This all seemed to start when my starter went. My starter was completly distroyed. one of the screws that holds the solinoid on was melted and dissformed at the thread adn was hangng our an inch. could i have fried my my ignition trying to start it with this screwed up starter?
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#9
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Check your fusable link wires first and if there o.k. I"d check to see if the ballast resistor has gone bad. That's a common thing and if it got wet while it was hot then that most likely is your cause.
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#10
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I ve replaced both. I took a voltage meter and im only getting 4 1/2 volts to my coil and have no idea why. Ive cleaned all the connections im out of ideas
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#11
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[QUOTE=dodgetruckboy]Yeah! Over carburate it by 150cfm's or so............................
Actually he would be on the right track in cfm's with an 800 cfm T.Q. All 318 engines equipped with a T.Q. used an 800 cfm version and the std 4 bbl 360 & the 360 hp in '74 all used an 850 cfm T.Q. These carbs are not at all comparable to 'other' 4 bbl carbs for obvious reasons. Satellite73, if you need help 'tuniung' your engine, I would be glad to help. I live off Hwy 78 between Stone Mtn and Snellville so I am not far from you. Call me sometime @770-500-5413 and we can get the '73 to surprise your friend with the Focus , David. |
#12
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Step back, take a breath, and think about what you did. You took stuff apart, and now it won't start. It's something that you did, I'd bet. Think it through before you start thrashing and replacing parts.
I'm not suspecting the ballast, because if it was bad the engine would fire when you crank it, but die when you release the key to "run". 4.5V on the coil doesn't say much. The ballast resistor will reduce the voltage to the coil at all times except during cranking. Not sure what the exact voltage should be, but at this point I wouldn't worry too much about it. Check for 12V on the ballast resistor, the end with the blue wire. I'm betting it's OK, since you do have power at the coil. Check to make sure your electronic ignition module has a good ground to the firewall. If things are getting corroded, maybe you have some between the module and the firewall. Make sure all the connectors you had apart are tightly reconnected. You say you put a new distributor cap on. Are you sure you got the wires on right? |
#13
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I think my dad and my i have it we checked the pick up coil and it was at 2.7 miliohms resistance should be greater than 1 k ohm. I bought a new one and it is correct im putting it in tomarrow.
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#14
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Quote:
He does have Thermoquad tatoo'd on his.................................... |
#15
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#16
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It lives Agian
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#17
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Coil pick up? I just did one on my big block last week.
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#18
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Congrats on the revival.
As far as the lack of acceleration goes, have you checked your throttle linkage for full opening at WOT? Also check your transmission kick-down linkage for proper actuation. If you don't already have one, get a service manual for your car. They are worth their weight in platinum. Good luck smoking the ricers. |
#19
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Quote:
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