60amp system to 100amp system!

[Blown340cuda]

Hi Guy's couple of questions

Where gona be needing more juice in my friends Challenger, it's a 1973 challenger 340 it's pretty well all stock at the monent, but many mods are coming !

is there anybody out there that as already converted a 73 ebody 60 amp setup to a 100 amp setup? what mods would be needed, we are going to use a 18 circuit painless kit number 10202 i beleive was the number and order a 100 amp alternator. Should we go with a 1 wire setup? could use all the info i can get before we start. I'm sure somebody as already done this on here

Again Thanks for your time Guy's!

Charlie B

[coronet67]

hey blown340,

last week I bought a 80 amp Bosch alternator for my 67 coronet(383). Most guys I know say that you better replace the original alternator with the external voltage regulator. The new Bosch alternator is internal controlled. In my case a just have to junk the voltage regulator and connect the B+ cable from the alternator to the black power cable wich goes into the main circuit. By the new alternator is "D+" the same like "field" by the original ones. At least you have to connect D+ to the ignition.

Hope I could help you a bit.

greetings Jan

[dave571]

The main thing to worry about, with an upgrade like this, is that the increased current will melt the ammeter in the dash, and possibly the bulkhead connector also.

Easy way to do it, is to simply run the alternator main output lead to the battery directly. Bypass all the ammeter stuff. Then use a voltmeter to keep an eye on the charging system. Wayyyyyyy simpler.

100 A is too much for those aodl ammeters which had a high failue rate anyway.

My .02

[62 Chrysler]

Save yourself some time.
Find a rebuilder that can re-wind yours. I got two stock two wire alternators and one single field rewound to 105 Amps. They work great and nobody even knows. They use the original alternator body. No brackets, no conversions, bolts right in.

They are a bit pricey though. . . If you can't find someone, PM me and I'll get you someone to contact

[Blown340cuda]

The ammeter will be bypass and the complete guage system is also getting replaced with autometer phantom guages, the bulk head connectors are all removed using a complete 18 circuit painless wiring harness. Just looking for info about what mods have to be made in order to go from 60 amps to 100amps, like should i go to a 1 wire alternator or stay with the old style seperated regulator.


thanks for your time guy's

[Blown340cuda]

[QUOTE=62 Chrysler]Save yourself some time.
Find a rebuilder that can re-wind yours. I got two stock two wire alternators and one single field rewound to 105 Amps. They work great and nobody even knows. They use the original alternator body. No brackets, no conversions, bolts right in.

Hey 62 Chrysler, now your telling me they can rewound the alternator to a 100amp one , that would be nice , but do they sell a regulator that can do the job also?

[ehostler]

A proper electronic regulator (not relay style) doesn't care how much amperage you are throwing into the system. It is regulating voltage. If the regulator sees a drop in voltage, it regulates the field lead to have the alternator provide more power.

[dave571]

Ed's hit it on the head.

The amount of power the alternator makes, won't cause the regulator the fail or put extra stress on it.

The regulator controlls field voltage , to control alternator output. It just turns it on and off.

In the 70's and 80's, 100 amp chrysler systems still used the same regulators as the other cars did.

[rumblefish360]

Now what about the amp gauge? Since finding a amp gauge rated at that output is not going to happen, what would be the best way to go about this problem of stopping the fire before it happens.

Also, what would be the proper way to wire in a voltage gauge?

I know this has been covered before, but since I'll be there soon doing the same thing, I figured it would be the next to logical questions to this thread.

Links?

[George G. Leverette]

1200+watts of power with a 100 amp alternator will really satisfy most power requirements. www.madelectric.com has some interesting reading on the question you asked and will clarify the differences between the alternators.

[ehostler]

Bypass the amp gauge, before the bulkhead connector. You will need to run a heavy gauge wire from the output of the alternator to the battery post on the starter relay.

You don't want the extra current to meltdown the alt gauge or the bulkhead connector.

[71SATELITE]

Answer on how to wire gauges, wire amp gauges in series and volt gauges in parallel. I would go directly to the battery to get most accurate read on what was going on with it. But then again you might want to wire off the positive side of the alternator. I guess it all depends on what you are wanting to know the condition of. I think I would opt for the alternator, because if that ain't working you ain't got ee: .

[turbododge]

One thing to remember is that, especially with Mopar alternators, your low rpm output will be REDUCED by going to a higher total output unit. This can be a real problem if you have electric fans, super hot ignition, big stereo etc as you will be very short of amps at idle. A single wire, 140 amp max, GM or Powermaster atlernator will do 85 amps at idle, and may be a better choice if you need the power at low rpm.

[ehostler]

The late 100 Amp alt's don't have that problem. The newer ND alts don't have that problem either.

[turbododge]

The Denso alts do pretty well, don't know the specs though. What year did Mopar change to the better style. All the old separate reg units I have seen were very bad at idle. Got specs on the newer version?

[62 Chrysler]

The Denzo's still use an external regulator. It's in the engine pooter.

From around 69 on up, cars with ameters were wired parallel with the charging circuit. This way the gauge could be made lighter. It also prevented loosing the car if the ameter burned out. Common on the early 70's cars

[ehostler]

I know that the ND in my truck is a 120 AMP unit. It is externally regulated by the PCM. When I have my trailer connected, I can have all of the lights on, AC cranked to full, in gear with my foot on the break (stop light) and I get no voltage drop, no headlight dim, etc.