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#1
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Pictures of my 408 shortblock fresh from machine shop +questions.
Pictures of my 408 shortblock fresh from machine shop +questions.
Got my shortblock back from the machine shop and thought Id post some pictures. Tell me what you think of the quality of the work from these images. Now I need a timing chain, complete cam/lifters/rockers/shafts/pushrods and a few other small things(head bolts). Any recommendations on chain brands? I was thinking of these rockers:Comp Cams With these I can use ball-ball pushrods and not need custom ones, just ones from most likely another brand like Ford. I was thinking of using this cam: COMP. CAMS HYD. F. T. 525" LIFT 231°/237° @ .050, 275°/287° ADV. DUR. 110 L/C Opinions? -dust [IMG]http://hemineko.net/IMAGES/rodscloseup.jpg[ |
#2
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I'm surprised that there are no replies to this.. not even a 'looks good' or 'I've see better'.
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#3
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looks good mate, pity no one will see the painting in the valley and behind the timing cover! manufactured an hour or so from where i live, (gold coast australia) rollmaster timing chains are the go, they are the best money can buy, and you dont even need much to do so. they also do line bore sets for those needing that. im sure i read in a mopar mag that some one over there retails them but cant remember who. they are bulletproof. thats my suggestion. keep up the good work.
ben simpson |
#4
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Looks sweet! Would have replied sooner, but I don't surf much on the weekends (sick of computers by Friday). What did the stroker set up cost you? I waffel daily on keeping my dak or upgrading to something with a payment. Something in a 408 with a little boost might keep the truck in my garage a few more years.
Later, Greg |
#5
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I don't have much to say, since it looks just like my 408, except the pistons and studs. Watch your oil pump, you may need to put a bolt back in one side of the #5 cap to get it to sit flat on the cap.
torch |
#6
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Quote:
Looks perfect! (I never have been a fan for painting the insides though.......since you wanted some criticism) :flip: |
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How much side clearance do you have?
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A thing of beauty. Painting the valley and the timing chain area would not fly with me unless it was powdercoat, but if it is some good cured paint thatll hold up to hot oil, go for it. I like those rockers, but at $500+, you could get decent ones at half that price and get yourself a roller cam setup. Rollmaster timing is the best looking out there and that usually means the quality is there. Add a new tensioner and never worry about that area.
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#9
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someday my 318 will be like that, someday.
I wouldnt paint it either, the inside that is. Someone should have took the sharp edge off of the piston's valve reliefs, that is a heat riser, might be fine for street use I guess, and someone used red rags all over the motor, I see red lint caught on everything. You asked for it, so I overlooked everything twice. I am very jealous. |
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Looks like a winner.
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Question? if you are adding a windage tray (I hope you are) how is it going to fit around/over the #3 main studs and connect to the short #4 stud? or am I just not seeing in the picture right!!
Are those reworked mopar rods or SIRs? All looks quit good and I'm sure you will be satisfied. What heads are you going to run? maybe give us a rundown on the rest of the build. 4secondsflat (below) also has the Rollmaster drive chain and sprockets in stock at a decent price. Do yourself a favour and at least check these out - RB cam too. http://www.4secondsflat.com/Racer_Br...cker_Arms.html One of these days my 388 stroker will get that far - took me 14mths to get the block back from the machine shop - never again. |
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I thought that Don had the Rollmaster timing chains; however, I couldn't find them on his site.
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#13
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@benno318: "The ultimate timing set", from my research, this looks like a STRONG chain setup.
@gsmopar: Ill send you a PM @dodgetruckboy: Rod side clearance? I dont know but am thinking of buying that tool to check, Im also thinking of buying the tool used to check deck height and making sure this is zero-decked. Need to find a place that sells those tools. @cageman: Oh, all the scratchs? Probably normal, my camera is good at catching small stuff like that. Now I have to figure out how to get all that red lint and the oil off that I put on her just after taking these pictures. @345Dart: I am running a windage tray, I dont know exactly what you mean about the installation since this will be my first WT install, and Ill post a picture of the bottom end with the tray after I install it. In my next post Ill try to have a scan of my receipt if youre interested. Running Edel LA heads and Eagle rods. Took them 14 months?! And I was pissed when it took my machine shop 4+ months -Anyone know a trustworthy company to buy RollMaster products from in the states? I dont see them at Dons site but that could have something to do with the poor layout of the site. What other brand timing chains are up to or near RollMaster? - Im very open to ideas for my valve train, roller or flat ? Is there an affordable roller set-up that is not made in Asia? Maybe Ill create another thread with a poll of what valve train to go with, but I need options for that poll first. That internal red stuff is not paint, if you look at it the right way; its a different shade than the external paint. I forgot exactly what it is but it h |
#14
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Looks nice. I always thought the block would need to be notched more than that. This is the first one I've seen. What heads are you going to run?
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#15
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dst
I wasn't looking for your receipt from the machine shop, but rather your total engine component build sheet.
Here is mine just for info: 4.03dia. Diamond forged pistons 510gms, 1/16" rings end gapped 3.79 stroke billet steel crank 6.123 light weight after market I beam rods Bored, sq. decked, line bored, oiling mods, Milodon 8qt pan and pickup Rollmaster timing set 308 pre-magnum CI heads with extensive rework 202/1625 SS undercut 11/32 stems ( yes I should have gone Edelbrock) bowl hogged, blended, gasket matched and decked for 64CCs Racer Brown hydraulic cam 254*@.050, .546/.520 108CL RB 1.6/1.5 roller rocker assembly, SB push rods, Airgap intake w/1" HVM spacer, 750 Mighty Demon Taylor wires, FBO spark Calculated final CR 11.4 The RB roller rocker assembly is sold by FBO and is 100% American made. I have them and they are a good setup. I sold my SS Comp Cam ones - and they were brand new. |
#16
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Looks very nice. I have the Comp Extreme Hi lift cam that you are suggesting in my 408, It has Edelbrock heads and probably a bit less compression that yours. It is a great street cam building lots of torque and loads of vacuum.
I can send you a video file of what it sounds like in my Cuda if you wish. |
#17
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440source.com sells both the Aussie Rollmaster and an American version in black oxide. Both use the Gold colored German chain that uses hardened rollers that dramatically reduce chain "stretch" (pin/roller wear). Heck they even sell nylon sprockets for the ULTIMATE numbers matching restoration (Ha Ha!)
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#18
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Hi
Before I would recomend a cam need to know weight, gears,& intended use.. Motor looks good what rods did you use? Last time I used Racer Brown was over 30 years ago no problems just used crane and crowler now 440source only has B and RB chains listed |
#19
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Quote:
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#20
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Short block:
Mopar Perf. 4.00 crank Eagle Rods Probe.030 over pistons JE piston rings Durabond bearings ***Internal balanced, no Mallory*** Milodon Oil pan and windage tray McCloud SFI flywheel and generic internal balancer Rest: Edelbrock heads maybe ARP stud system or just reg heat bolts depending on $$$. Felpro head gasket ARP bolts Timing chain - ??? RollMaster maybe? Rockers -??? Lifters - ??? Cam - ??? But I do know what I want if I dont go with rollers Stock chain cover Stock water pump (until gain enough money to replace, recommendations?) Stock fuel pump (until gain enough money to replace, recommendations?) Performer RPM intake Edelbrock 600cfm carb (until gain enough money for other carb, recommendations?) Car: Old beat-up Duster Old worn 4spd Old worn SG 83/4 3.23 @kamstra: Your posts were a big factor in my decision to go with a stroker! You posted in my should I go with a 408 stroker thread awhile ago. The pictures you posted helped in my understanding of a 360-408 stroker and made the decision much easier. Thanks. I have your video of the Cuda(do ya have any new videos?). If I go with non-roller cam, then Id go with the one you have. Sounds like a good street cam. @pishta: I dont see LA chains at 440source. They look good in the picture |
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You don't need a special tool to check rod clearance, or at least I don't anyway.......I use a feeler gauge, between the rods, and see how much you can get in there without bending the feeler gauge, and presto! Rod side clearance! I like mine to be between .012 and .018. .020 and looser you will have a bit of oil loss, and more windage, but, on the other hand, you are less likely to have a spun bearing! The oil gets away from the crank before it can burn, at high RPM. (Yeah, whatever ) Not enough side clearance can cause hot bearing issues, and, might spin it (not to mention more friction=less power+more heat). (I also measure rod side clearance, and main clearance, before choosing an oil pump (stock or high vol) when I am being really picky). If it is under .010, I would get them shaved a smidge. As fas as deck height? Just get a machine strait edge, lay it across the bore, and the same feeler guages..........010, .020, .035................easy as that! I have a little thing that goes on each side of the bore, and you snap a dial indicator in it, zero it with a strait edge, and check that way, but.........it really isnt necesary. :jackbox: :jackbox: :jackbox: :jackbox: Sorry about starting a Pick-A-Part on your engine....................... :wav |
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Quote:
.............................if you used anything else, it would not be "restored". Quote:
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So.
No one has anymore comments? Jeez...................... dst? Did you check your clearance yet? |
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DST, I am glad to help and I am sure you will be more than happy with you new engine.
I am not sure I would use the XE275 cam again, not that it is a bad cam choice but it is a split pattern cam that may not be necessary with the better exhaust flow characteristics of the Edelbrock heads. It is the best Off the Shelf Cam that I could find. With a 4 speed, you could even go with a bigger cam if you wanted more power. If I were to do it again I would call Dwayne Porter and have him spec a custom grind for me. Additionally I will likely send my heads to him for a bit of porting work. There is some good power to unlock there. Rob |
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Im also surprised that not more users are throwing in there opinions/comments, oh well. Im thinking of posting these questions and my spec sheet on other forums to get a broader range of opinions. Do you (or anybody reading this) know of other Mopar/Muscle car forums with a decent amount of users? Im currently looking into getting started with Allpar, Im not a big fan of MoparStyle. Wild1_Robertson: I do 90% freeway driving and then drag. (I live about 40-50 minutes from closest strip, and its just a 1/8 too!!! And my car did not pass spec last time! Can't have more than 12 inches of rubber fuel hose on a stock Dodge!?! ) Thanks for the advice kamstra, unfortunately I am not knowledgeable enough yet to understand what is needed for a custom grind cam for my application so Ill use an off-shelf one for the time being. |
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Cuda-Challenger is a nice site, and Chryco Psycho knows his $#!+ (you can post it in engine and go fast goodies)
Tell him I sent ya. |
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Oh, and for cams? If I am being really picky, I would go to Hughes, or Isky.
I have heard nothing but good about Engle cams too. And, I have always had luck with Lunati. |
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Thanks tk, I subscribed to C&C and will post these questions. 'Thinking I'll post these at Allpar while I'm at it.
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#29
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Both are on the dodgecharger.com board. There is another stroker build on that board with some dyno results. |
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moparts.com has around 50-70 veiwers continuosly
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