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#1
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Once and for all...Stock AND adjustable proportioning valve???
I've been looking and looking for some definitive info on this question....I've changed over to stock disk from drums on the front of my 71 Charger. I've also installed a lightweight Mopar Performance master cylinder, and am running all new lines. Should I use a stock style proportioning valve AND the Mopar Performance Adjustable Valve, or just the Adjustable by itself on the rear brakes? I only found one usable reference on Moparchat on this question, and that person didn't look to have their car finished (no motor) so I'd really like to get some real world opinions. I was going to use the brass stock style valve from Inline Tube, but I got it today and it's so damn big and heavy. I'd really like to just use the Mopar LightweightAdjustable Valve, but if that's not the way to go I won't. Planned usage for the car is Street/Strip, with ample usage of both venues. I'm not looking for benchracing answers here, but actual knowledgeable info. It's crazy, I've searched the web and I can't find one single source that addresses this topic. Help me. Pleassssse..Somebody help me, and hopefully your wisdom will help me and others. Thanks guys!
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#2
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Use one or the other not both. The stock unit should be for the stock set up. Since you upgraded from drums to disk, the drum/drum unit is no good. You would need a stock drum/disk valve or the MoPar adjustable.
The new unit from in line tube. If it is designed for the new set up on the car, it will be fine. If it was for the old set up, drum/drum, then it should be left alone. I would do the MoPar unit. |
#3
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Id use the stock unit unless it's a full bnlown race car with aftermarket parts you don't need the adjustable one. Matter of fact there is a certain amount of front rear split built into ever master cylinder.
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#4
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here is a quote from Richard Ehrenberg, from Mopar Action tech archives where he voices his preference for the MP adjustable valve for a disc brake conversion.
"the Mopar Performance/Wilwood "add-on" adjustable valve, Mopar #P5249088, is highly recommended, and, therefore, was used in our swap. The standard, nonadjustable valve was, of necessity, a compromise. The same valve was used on wagons and 2-door coupes, slant sixes and Hemicars, meaning that some cars rolled out of the assembly plant with less-than-ideal proportioning, characterized by a tendency toward early rear-wheel lockup." While you cant believe everything you read, I trust in E booger's recommendation. here's the link to the entire article if you're interested in checking it out, http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html Good Luck |
#5
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I did the same thing on my 71 road runner. In a stock 4whl drum you don't have a proportioning valve- just a "T" for the brake light switch. Use the MOPAR adjustable valve on the line out to the rear drums. That set up worked just fine for 5 years. It also required no modifcation when I swapped to rear disks after that.
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#6
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I always thought they were simple t's in the line, and also for a brake light, nothing more. when I yook the thing off of my 70, I took it apart and it looked like the only thing inside was ground for the light, thats it. I just put a t in for the front brakes and ran a line to the rear, it works good. I put an adj p valve in for my valiant, just in the rear, I have 4 wheel discs. I figured while Im in there, I might as well plumb it in. along with a line loc in the front, That should be fun to use.
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#7
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Thanks for all of the info
Thanks so much everyone. Those are the kind of definitive answers I've been looking for. Great news to boot. I'm definitely going to use the lightweight Mopar Proportioning valve for the rears and plumb in a T fitting and line/lock for the front disks. Thanks again!
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#8
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When you change the set-up......
you need to change the valve to fit the situation.
Have you ever taken a street car to the track and bolted on a set of slicks and ran? That is when you wish you had the proper proportioning valve. |
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