Water outlet sizes

[usdart]

Need a lil info please..
I have two different water outlets for my '87' 360 intake. The larger one will not bolt on. Does that make this a 318 4 barrel intake? Or did the size change at some point?

Reason for question is= I am trying for a little more flow because the car tends to overheat in the summer at a light. I have a new 3 core 26" Radiator and a stock overflow assy with the correct shroud.
The larger water outlet is substantially larger and should flow better than the one on it, but, a manifold change may have to happen to get it.

I have an old style 360 4 bbl intake that will work with the larger water outlet.

[dwc43]

Different intakes, but that outlet wont make any difference. You need to check to see if your rad is clean, you have the proper ratio pulley's and t stat as well. Also check your carb jetting and timming as these will also cause overheating.. Your rad is big enough it should have trouble getting warm. Most don't need three cores. Also what kind of fan are you running?

[usdart]

The Rad is brand new from year one. I just changed the t-stat to the recomended 195', It had a 160' in it.
Here in Vegas it gets above 110' so I need the big Rad in it.
Timing and carb should be fine, it runs VERY well and I don't want to tweak it and screw it up. I run 18" of vac at 725RPM'S idle and 14" in gear.

Just have to do a test drive to see how it goes with the 195' in it.

[pishta]

feel your radiator with your hand if you can when it starts to get hot, check for cool spots that will indicate a clogged tube/s. Too much flow, like without a thermostat can cause an overheat condition because the water is not in the radiator long enough to cool sufficiantly.Use a good name brand 160 stat like a Stant or Robert Shaw. Also make sure your sender is good, run a seperate guage to compare to. A lean carb will cause a hot motor. No cool looking colored flex fans, those suck. OEM shrouds work very well with the proper fans. An aux. fan may help, like a 12-16 inch pusher in the front but some say they block flow at speed, but than again, you overheat at stand still lights, right? A larger WP pulley will cause the pump to slow and possible be more efficiant and make sure you are topped off in the coolant department with no air pockets. A new yearly vent style cap is nice to have to help purge gas from the system when hot, but make sure you have an overflow tank that is above the cap level and its overflow tube SUBMERGED at all times to prevent air from being sucked in at cooldown. Im batteling the same thing but I dont have a shroud, hell I dont have a fan for space reasons.

[usdart]

I am running a big 7 blade clutch fan off a Van. The clutch is new too.The stat is a Prestone 195' that I just put in. I have been considering a elec fan for when I hook up my A/C next summer. As for running lean, my plug ceramics are an off white color which to my way of thinking is as good as it gets. What about Gap? I am at 32 now on my 360 with the Summit Cam and 302 heads, MSD box, stock dist.

[dodger1]

If you're running the 7-blade Mopar fan with a new clutch, the correct shroud, and a new 3-core rad, you should be able to run your 195 t-stat without a problem, even in 100 degree days. So there's a flow problem somewhere, and I don't believe the water inlet would have an effect. (You did say it's a factory manifold, right?) Are you satisfied the block itself has no restrictions? Intake gaskets? Trapped air? My mild 360 with early (79) iron manifold, 7-blade fan, stock shroud and a 28" stock rad won't overheat on a 100 degree day (we get lots here) I do run a 180 t-stat, but I wouldn't go colder unless I had a different set-up, (like Pishta's) Also, you could open the plug gap to .040 - .045 with the MSD, although I don't think that will affect cooling at all.

[Shaun]

Sound like you are plugged up,my friend. Start it and wait for it to reach 170,or so and take off your radiator hose(top one) and see how much comes out(you have a mech temp guage,right?) . Make sure your thermostat is in the right way-it could be upside down. Do you really want your engine running at 195*? Isn't that a little hot for summer?Winter,yes,but not summer. Try a 180 Milodon high flow and always boil a pot of water and throw it in to make sure it works-I don't know how many come off the shelf frozen.
And I agree that your water pump could be cavitating-getting air bubbles in it. Shaun

[usdart]

I have a smog test coming up so 195' for that then back to the 160' or 180' that I have.
Now that I think a little it could be my lower rad hose. It hasn't been replaced in a long time. Probably the only thing left to replace. Maybe it is collapsing on me?

I fthat doesn't work I am going to pull the Rad out and have it redone. It is less than a 'C' note to do.

[madmax4073]

It is possible for the lower rad hose to collapse, but that happens at higher rpms not at iddle where your problem is occuring. The hose should also have a spring inside it to prevent this from happening. I would remove the drain plugs from the side of the block. If alot of rust is visible and/or the openings are completely rusted over its a good indication that your cooling passages are restricted.

[usdart]

The block is very fresh,only about 5,000 miles on it. Standard bore and I know it is clean inside cause I did it myself. It was flushed with a Muratic acid and water solution that was pumped thru the block. Then rinsed thouroghly with soap and then clear H2O.

It almost has to be the Radiator!

[rellik eeb]

Your radiator isnt big enough. Its a heat exchanger, and there isnt enough heat exchange going on to cool the engine, all the cooler additves, and adding more coolent/heater core wont help. Get a bigger radiator like a 27 inch.