Engine priming

[Drews'70]

This may be a good debate. How long after your car sat without starting the engine, would you prime the engine to avoid a dry start?. Would it depend on whether the engine was tight? as in recently rebuilt? Would oil type be a factor?

[340rt]

Drew's 70, yours is a very good question. I don't get to drive my car every day ,in fact it's more like 4 or 5 times a month . I'm also concerned with dry starts .It's been said many times that 50% of the wear on engines components occur during start up before oil pressure can be established by the oil pump. At this point I'm seriously considering using a good oil accumulator , Accusump, Moroso or whatever . They take care of dry starts and also provide some other benefits.

[Drews'70]

Is this accumulator like an electric fuel pump but for the oil? If it is that would save the pain of having to go through priming for sure.

[340rt]

An accumulator is basically a preoiler.But rather than repeat what they say I'm going to refer you to a web site that clearly describes the design and operation of an accumulator.Hope this helps. www.streetortrack.com/preoiler.asp

[Drews'70]

Thanks 340rt. Looks like that rig would do the trick.

[dodger1]

Brand-new (as in newly machined surfaces) most will agree a pre-oil is pretty much good insurance. Once the engine has a few hours, in my opinion enough residual oil film remains even after a week or two to prevent a dry start. Cranking with ignition off until positive pressure shows on the gauge is my way of pre-lubing after a week or 2. I'm sure others will disagree.Anyone?

[ehostler]

That looks like a great product for fair weather drivers. I know that my cars hibernate from late fall to early spring. They only get started once or twice a month.

[pishta]

You can make a preoiler for about 30 bucks. Get a 20 buck hydraulic accumulator off Ebay, 1/2 to 1 quart, usually surplus from something else and a 1/4" diverter ball valve. Plumb the single line to a oil galley somewhere, like the other threaded hole next to the sender on a big block, but the lower in the block, the better. You can put a pressure guage on the top of the accumulator just to see the pressure it has in it along with a schreader valve so you can vent it or pressurize it. Start the car up when cold and see about 70 PSI, now open the divertor valve, itll force oil in there at 70 PSI, then shut the divertor valve. Now you have pressurized oil. Before starting it up again in weeks, open the divertor and all that oil will flow into the oil galleys and youll see the oil pressure guage move. Probably only take about a second or so. keep it open and start the car up, itll pressurize again to 70 PSI cold and you can close it again. If you mount it low, you may want to put a one way valve behind it so you dont charge the pan. Must have divertor valve on the bottomShreader valve can be pumped up with a bike pump if you lose pressure past the guage fitting after a year or so...

[dodger1]

Despite what I said, pishta's idea sounds like an easy winter project. I like it