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#1
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Can I use this rod without having a headache?
Hi
by the installation of the last piston, I´ve seen that the hole for the piston pin wasn´t in center. Do you think that the rod will do job or is the material on the right hand side to thin? I use lightweight aluminum pistons. Thanks in forward Here is the pic of the ro |
#2
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That looks pretty darn thin, I think if it was me I would get another rod prepped the same and ballance to match the wight of the rod you have. How long has that rod ran like that? Might last in a stocker but I think for any kind of build up a replacement would be indicated.
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#3
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hi.
the rods are new. Yes the right side is very thin, but the left one is much thicker than normaly |
#4
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I never saw a rod like that before. I guess if you are running lightweights it will help, but that thing must be weighted somewhere else. I can't imagine that thing is semetrical.
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#5
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It looks like it got machined off center some how. I think I would ask for a replacement if it was me since the parts are new. I have never seen one off that far. What size motor and what power and rpm level are you planning on running to? Am opinions.
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#6
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That is certainly a flawed rod... don't use it!
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#7
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i would imagine the most likely time that would fail is under heavy deceleration which may be when you really need the engine to hang together the most, such as a problem with brakes down a long hill or towing etc.
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#8
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I can't believe that rod got a bushing put in it, instead of being chucked into the scrap bin!
torch |
#9
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Chuck it................
Not only will it not be as strong as designed, but it will increase side load on the piston and not allow for proper ring seal and increased scuffing ( increased friction ). Many negatives. Toss it.
If using the same block, check THAT cyc. for extra wear. If the block is bored it sould be ok. |
#10
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Thanks for your fast replies.
The engine is a 383. I wanna use it for strip/street. Engine must rev up to 6800. Does anybody have still some new B-Block rods in the garage? Looks like its the best way to replace it. I would spend the money for a new set, the problem is that the crankshaft is already balanced with these rods. Can I use all 383/400 rods? |
#11
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#12
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#13
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With the thrust center.........
located to the side of the rod and due to weight mass being off center, this will cause loading to the top or bottom of the piston, depending on which direction it is installed. Ring seal is dependant on stability of the piston in the bore and with the side loading of the piston, you will have additional uncontrolled movement. This of course will hurt ring seal and increased friction, wearing the piston, rings and cyc. walls.
Just thinking out loud. |
#14
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Shame on the machinist who put that bushing in that rod!
It's not like 383 rods are hard to come by. |
#15
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I would find a better rod ,as high as you want to rev ,Ive seen too many stock rods stretch under that abuse.I would get some 440 source rods and re balance to match the ones you have.
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#16
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#17
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Thats right. When you see the pic, you think the person who has done the job had no knowledge about engines. I bought the rods with dome pistons from a guy from this chat. I tried to mail him but his email adress isn´t valid anymore.
Probaply he hasn´t spend a look to the rods before he sold the |
#18
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Tarrbabe... I think you're becoming a bit imaginative there. The rod is going from one side of the piston to the other and back again every revolution, this wouldn't make any difference I wouldn't think. What also occurs to me... is this a used rod? Has it already done 150,000 miles like this? |
#19
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And consider this, if that rod caused his motor to grenade in Germany, how much more expensive would it be to replace over there? The point still stands, the rod shouldn't have even been considered as useable and should have been scrapped, either here, Germany or anywhere else on the globe. |
#20
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Imaginative???
Maybe. I don't have a degree in engineering but I don't beleive it is required to work out what is going on when the center of thrust is moved to the side. The true torqe is being applied to the entire pin but the weight of the rod is still a factor. This weight will cause more side loading than is normal and thus cause the piston to rock more in the hole. Controling errant motion in the engine prevents power loss, wether it be in piston control or valve train control.
The unsprung weight rule brings this to mind as to how important it is to get the details right. ( Rule: Removing 1 lb of unsprung weight from a car/moving mass is equal to removing 10 lbs of sprung weight ). Imaginative? Imagination is the key to invention. Thanks. Just thinking out loud. |
#21
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Sure, the internet can get things from anywhere, but I would think that a ready supply of replacement rods might be a little difficult to locate (in the immediate sense) in Germany. There's no excuse for whoever stuck the bush in there to have not noticed and rejected it. |
#22
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Even worse is the guy on this board that sold these rods to him. What a dirt bag.
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#23
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I found two remanufactured federal mogul connecting rods on ebay. 17$ for both plus shipping. Is it complicated to change the rod from press fit to full floating pin? Whould you recommend a hole in the top of the rod for oil supply for the pin?
Thanks you all for your fast help and assistance with my problem. |
#24
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Not a bad price.......
You will have to have them weighed and rebalanced to the spec's of the other 7 rods or the other 7 rods rebalanced to them. The deal with the oil hole in the top of the rods is if you are running a pure race engine or if you plan on using this engine for 150,000 miles. It is for insurance. If you want an engine for use for max HP you wouldn't be using stock rods. If you want one to last for 150,000 miles, well you have to decide that. Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go? Having the rods bushed shouldn't cost more than $20 per rod. It isn't that hard. At least that is the cost around here.
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#25
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Honestly I agree, get the manufacturer to replace this defective one. |
#26
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