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#1
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How to soften shifts...........
I've mention the Stepside I just bought and the buzz/rattle that it makes. I have decided it has too much line pressure and that reducing it might help. This thing shifts like I've been rearended on shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. Don't have a clue what shift kit it has in it.
The question is if I reduce line pressure, will it stop the noise and soften shifts? I've got the valve body on the computer desk in front of me trying to decide what to do. I also have a stock 727 I could rob the valve body from and also a fresh 727 from my 340 that has a B&M kit in it. It shifted good but not as harsh as this thing. If I let up off the throttle before it shifts into drive it will shift so hard a loud ping comes from the drive shaft / rear end area and it still jerks the truck. Thanks. |
#2
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hard shifting
you could always check the amount of torque on the front band and back it off a little bit, not too much though. Torque rating is 72 in/lbs, back it off to about 67 in/lbs and see what it does. other than that, change valve bodies in my opinion.
Mike |
#3
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Well so much for the stock valve body......
The stock valve body has aparantly had a shift kit put in it too. Shifts about like the B&M unit I have. But my noise is still there. I now think my flex plate is broke.
For you tf specialist, what makes them shift early in first to second and then not want to shift into drive until you take your foot off the gas? Something wrong with the govener? |
#4
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Early 1-2 shifts are usually the result of improperly adjusted throttle pressure linkage. When early 1-2 shifts are accompanied by late or no 2-3 upshifts, the problem is usually fluid leakage at the front clutch; the fluid leakage can be the result of worn sealing rings or hardened/shrunk lip seals.
When the throttle is lifted the power decreases and the clutch will engage even at the low pressure caused by the seal leakage. |
#5
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It's amazing what a quart of fluid does.........
Then you realize that you have different problems. Still shifts early but after it warms up it shifts pretty good except it still shifts early. Got to adjust it again. Shifted hard into super hard with old valve body. Still shifts hard but not as hard. But why should their be a difference in hot and cold?
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#6
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Hardened/shrunken rubber seals will soften up a little when warm and seal better.
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#7
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There is a spring behind the annular piston that sometimes gets swapped out for a solid rod. thatll give you a hard shift.
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#8
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So you are telling me........
to go ahead and pull it and re-do everything? Even though it shifts into 3rd gear good now after the quart of fluid?
This trans was shifting early but violently into each gear. After changing the valvebody I mistakenly left it a quart low and it was slow to go into 3rd. Now it shifts well but it not as hard (violent) as it did. I can tell a very slight difference in performance between hot and cold shifts. If I have to pull the trans I'm going to put my old 340 torque converter in it to try to help some. It stalled at 2300 with the 340. I still haven't driven it again since adjusting the linkage again. I have the dash apart right now. Hooking a radio up. |
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