stroking a 383? Need advice and help...Please

[bee68]

I need info on stroking a 383 anything would help I have a 67 383 block a nice pair of polished/ported 915 heads,Manely pro flow valves,steel 440 crank and Diamond custom pistons 383 60 over. I was told I should use Eagle 440 rods and I am going to use a roller cam,just do not know what one?? the moter will be balenced also
I would like to know what has to be done to the block/crank to to this??/Rods too
Whan I ordered the pistons for a stock 383 60 over someone put in that they needed to be for a stroked moter and now I am stuck with them.

I am tryig to get this moter done for Englishtown NJ.

Any advice would be help full

Going into a White Dodge 68 Superbee 4.10 gears auto rmvb I will be getting a converter also.

Thanks for all the help Fred

[dave571]

You'll have to find a machinist who can figure out which stroke those pistons are to be used with.

There are lots of stroker combo's. Are you sure ithe pistons are for a 3.75" stroker?

knowing what stroke and rod the pistons are to be used with will be crucial. Especially with those closed head 915's. The pistons can't stick out of the hole with the closed heads(depending on gasket selection of course)

What are your goals for the car? Unless they are all out race, in the 10 second or faster range, I don't know why you would elect to go to a roller cam. my .02

.060 over with a 440 cranks, and you have 438 cid..

[bee68]

Just jumping back into things just so you know.

Umm the pistons are flat top and have a cut out relief for a 600 lift cam

yes the pistons are for stock leth and stock 440 crank.I am going to talk to the guy thursday about more about the specs on the pistons called to late tonight to get more answers.

Gasket set will be felpro

I though you can gain alot of help from not running a stock valve setup

I will check again on the head #s too

Will check back thursday night ,thanks for the help

[Tarrbabe]

Thought you said the pistons were for a 383 +.060. That would be for the 3.38 stroke, not the 3.75.

[bee68]

383 pistons 60 over in a 383 60 over block are to be used with stock size 440 rods and a stock 440 crank

the crank I have is a steel crank and it will be turned down to 383 main specs

hope that helps you help me ??

[BDS 871 Cuda]

55 more cubes will wake that 383 up. You don't need a roller cam. A solid cam with around 590 lift will work the 915 ported heads just fine. Make sure you have the heads flowed to see what cam to run. Watch the comp. try to stay under 10.5 to 1 with good pump gas for the street. Run an MSD ign. and an 825 race Demon on top an M1 with some 100 oct. fuel and it should
make an easy 550 horsepower.
The cool thing is it will look like a 383!

[bee68]

Roller or something better then stock is what I would like

Thought you would gain pretty goodpower with using better then stock valve train

I do not want to run a solid, once the valve covers are on I do not want to adjust things

m1 I also think is a good thing I already have a holly 750 vac if it proves not big enough then I willl have to go bigger

thanks for all the help Fred

[Slingshot383]

Is this a street car or a race car?

The 440 crank will need the mains turned down to 383/400 mains, and the overall O.D. needs to be turned down (counter weights), which makes for a lighter rotating assembley. It needs to be balanced, with the rods and pistons.

For cam, if you don't want to adjust anything, you are stuck with a hydraulic cam, which limits you to .535" lift or less. It will also limit the performance potiental that you can get out of this motor. Your best bet would be a solid lifter cam in the .590" - .635" lift range. Yes there is maintainence, but Mopars don't need it like a small block Chevy.

To find out how everything will fit, you'll need to know your finished block heigth, the crank stroke, rod length, and pin heigth in the pistons.

The best you'll get out of a hydraulic cam will be 6600 rpm, where the solid lifter cam is good for better than 7200 rpm. A 383, even when stroked, thinks it's a smallblock and loves to rev. Why limit it with a cam that won't?

[Mr.Roadrunner]

Originally Posted by bee68

I need info on stroking a 383 anything would help I have a 67 383 block a nice pair of polished/ported 915 heads,Manely pro flow valves,steel 440 crank and Diamond custom pistons 383 60 over. I was told I should use Eagle 440 rods and I am going to use a roller cam,just do not know what one?? the moter will be balenced also
I would like to know what has to be done to the block/crank to to this??/Rods too
Whan I ordered the pistons for a stock 383 60 over someone put in that they needed to be for a stroked moter and now I am stuck with them.

I am tryig to get this moter done for Englishtown NJ.

Any advice would be help full

Going into a White Dodge 68 Superbee 4.10 gears auto rmvb I will be getting a converter also.

Thanks for all the help Fred

Speaking from experience, I'd keep the 383. I can appreciate trying to be different, but why go through all that trouble and $$$ to ruin a great rod/stroke ratio??? Just get a 440 if you want more cubes.

My 383 is pretty mild and not a lot of $$$ invested. It pushes my 3700 lb (weight as raced) 68 RR to the high 12's with a stock converter (1800 stall), 8 x 26" slicks, Torker, 750 Holey, 4.30:1 Dana, bench seat, column shift and PS hooked up - Install a DP4B and OEM AVS carb from a 440 and still get 13 flat. BTW, the 13 flat combo passed CA emmissions when it had to.

It's not the fastest thing out there by any means, but it sure was fun seeing the expressions of the gazillion $$$ Chevy and Cleveland guys, a Hemi and a few 440 E body owners when they realized it wasn't a 440 that just beat them down the 1/4 mile.

[ehostler]

I don't get how you can use a 440 crank and 440 rods with a 383 piston in a 383 engine. Right off of the top, I'm pretty sure that the stroke and rod combo will cause piston to head interface.

[bee68]

I ordered pistons for a stoke 383 60 over and that is not what they sent me. Mancini racing will not do anything cause it has been to long the were built 5-4-04

I am not going to wait and waste more money on more pistons I got them and I am going to use em

The pistons I got are shorter then 383 rods to make up the difference of the longer 440 rod

the mains will have to be turned down to 383 specs and the block will have to be "adjusted" to let the rest fit unless the machine shop when balencing and they adjust the counter balencers smaller?? I could just be talking through my hat but it goes something like that

[Tarrbabe]

You have the basics for a great motor. If the pistons are for the 3.75" stroke then you are set for a very good engine that has the stealth view. Anyone that knows will look and know it is a 383 and it will run like a 440. Cool!!!!! Now, just build it like a 440, they have good cams and other stuff to make it suck air hard.............................................
You know the 383 should be considered a small block! It has a stroke of 3.38 where the 350 Chevy has a stroke of 3.48. But larger ports and better physics. Build it and go picking on 350's.

They have trouble figureing out how you beat them so bad.

[DDink]

I just finished putting together a 383 stroker kit from 440 source. the machine shop had to do some clearance work to allow for the larger crank and had to clearance the rod bolts on the bottom side of the piston walls. however it all fit.

[bee68]

do you have any more specs about your moter that you could share? Cam,intake...

[DDink]

I used a mopar 280 hydraulic purple shaft cam. I have edlebrock aluminum heads, edelbrock rpm intake manifold with a edelbrock 750 cfm carb. of course headers dual exhaust........hope that helps. car goes out tonight for first time since rebuild. can't wait.

[Dave 572]

I'd like to have some idea of what the CH is and work back from there on the rest of the combo.What is the dimension taken from the top of the piston to the centerline of the pin hole?

BTW, I love the idea of a big 383.I'm going to run a 440source 3.915 stroker.It winds up being about a 452" with a super light bobweight that'll rev like hell.

[DDink]

Dave 572, i do not have that info for you. i do know that the piston was noticably smaller than the stock piston. sorry for the lame answer.

[DartGT66]

If it's a 3.75" stroke with RB length rods, the CH is about 1.32". That's about the lowest I would go in a street/strip engine. The pistons are readily available from ROSS, although they are not in their catalog. And, if you do a 383 with 4.25" stroke chevy rod journals, use 6.535" rods, you could use the same pistons and be closer to 500!

[Dave 572]

Originally Posted by DartGT66

If it's a 3.75" stroke with RB length rods, the CH is about 1.32". That's about the lowest I would go in a street/strip engine. The pistons are readily available from ROSS, although they are not in their catalog. And, if you do a 383 with 4.25" stroke chevy rod journals, use 6.535" rods, you could use the same pistons and be closer to 500!

Thanks for his numbers,I guessed I missed the details.Yeah, 500" "the hard way".The counterweights would have to be turned down quite a bit.I think the 3.75 crank needs to be turned a bit to get it into the 383 block.I haven't tried that combo yet for fitment,although i'd like to try the 3.915 in the 383 block.

I agree with you on the CH.I wouldn't go any shorter either,although it is possible.

EDIT:I went back to the beginning of the thread.I should've been asking my questions to bee68.Sorry for the confusion.

[Ragg]

Hello in regards to your motor check out Mopar Muscle article about doing it. Well sort of may help some. They also used Diamond pistons I believe. This mo. book

[bee68]

Need to know if anyone knows what else has to be done to the crank (440)for it to fit the 383 block. Looking to know if the counter wghts have to be turned/trimmed or what?? to what size?? Any help/phone #s or a call would be great

774-245-0108

Need to know asap crank is at the machine shop now

Fred

[DartGT66]

The RB crank does not fit in a B block, the counterweights are too big. You can either turn them down or clearance the block for them, but it really depends of what kind of parts are used, rod lengths, crank type (cast or forged) and so on. Here is some information about fitting a 440 crank in to a 400 block, it's pretty much the same deal except the bore size: http://www.arengineering.com/articles/451.html

[Tarrbabe]

All I have ever read said just to clerance the block to clear the crank. That will stop having to cut the crank and use mallory metal ( which is very expensive ) to clear the crank. Of course the crank should be re-hardened but not a really necessary step for a short term engine. If you plan on the engine lasting a long time, I would make an effort to have it re-hardened.
No matter what you do, have the rotating mass re-balanced. Otherwise you loose hp and it will shake itself apart over time.

Just thinking out loud.

[DartGT66]

It depends.... If you are using 440 length rods, each piston will weigh almost 400 grams less with pins than the original 440 parts. If not cutting the copunterweights down, your counterweights will end up looking like Swiss cheewe, a lot of weight has to be removed. If you are going to use B-rods, tehn you will not loose as much weight. Still you should be able to grind a radius to the counterweights so that they would clear the block. The only combination I would leave the counterweights alone is when using a cast 440 crank; with LY rods or others with similar weight RB rods (440 source rods are light) and a typical piston for that combo you might get the bobweight so small that even the cast crank will balance internally.

I have never had the crank rehardened, and it has not caused any problems. I do not consider it necessary. It may give some extra defence in the case of problems, but if the crank gets oil and the oil is clean, it will work just fine for a long time. My oldest forged crank B-stroker is over ten years old now and has seen some 30000 street miles making between 550 and 650 hp and several hundred pulls at the strip, the last few years it has been in a race car producing 713 hp. No problems with the crank so far.

[bee68]

The pistons were made for stock length 440 rods and a stock 440 crank in a 383 block Crank is at machine shop now might be done friday,going to call shop in morning and ask about turning the crank down to a 7.250 size to fit in the 383 block

The crank is steel out of a industrial 1976 or 78 440 moter

We are going to use eagle rods

if I just clearance the block,is that the easiest way or the strongest way to do this or should I just have the crank rounded out to 7.250 like in the article that I read.

Thanks again guys & girls for all the help.

Might be asking other things in the near future... Fred

[DartGT66]

In your case I would truly turn the counterweights down to 7.25". It will reduce windage, and you should have plenty of material left for balancing (if your crank is a forged unit). The less counterweight radius you can cope with, the better.

[BRDMOPARMAN]

im trying to build a 440 stroker to a 495. i have 9.5:1 compression with forged ross pistons(.040 over). i have been trying too reach to turbo manufactures and see what they suggest as far as turbo size but i keep getting the run around so maybe you guys will know. im looking for twin turbos that will spool around 2500 rpm, im all set up and ready to go other than what turbo to use. i want to run around 8-12 psi boost any help would be great. thx

[DartGT66]

I think you may not get the answers here. Or clear facts anywhere else either. I'm currently building a twin turbo 9:1 477 with about the same boost as you, and it seems that what comes to advice, there is no concensus or absolute truth anywhere. I think you should at least check out this forum, it's the best I've seen so far: http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/ . Because of tee very different opinions, I'm building the engine and vehicle just the way I feel, and we'll see how it works out. Planning to be at the street&track at some point summer 2006.

[BRDMOPARMAN]

great thanks for the advise how long before the car is done? let me know how it turns out.

[Dave 572]

IMO, you're going to blow the bottom of the block out on the first 12 psi blast,{and probably 8 psi,too)unless your using a KB block.A quick guess of HP is in 1000-1200 range.Stock block might last at 800 hp,but not for very long.Call Turbo Engineering Corp. in Golden CO for compressor maps for your application.

Generally,taking .100"-.180" off the counterweights still yields a bobweight of about 2400g.There should be plenty of weight to balance a lighter stroker assembly.If you get your rods, pistons, rings locks etc weighed you might have a better idea of how much to take off the crank.You may ultimately settle on a little block clearancing and a little shaving on the crank.Or take it all off the crank.