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  #1  
Old 04-19-2006, 03:21 AM
Jakke Jakke is offline
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Default Torsion bars

Hi

Where can I buy new torsion bars to my 73 Charger 440cid? Mopar perf. Bars are too short ( 41") And I need 44" long torsion bars?
What bar diameter is good?
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  #2  
Old 04-19-2006, 09:01 AM
mopar_nocar mopar_nocar is offline
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http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294865241


are you using a factory set up? those should work.

920s or 960s would be my choice...

sb
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  #3  
Old 04-19-2006, 09:06 AM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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A buddy usewd there bars for his Cordoba/300. A 1979 vintage ride. Call and ask to be sure there what your looking for.
http://www.p-s-t.com/mopar/motorsion.html
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  #4  
Old 04-19-2006, 09:48 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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Seems like PST has them, the ones at Summit are for the pre '73 models.
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2006, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakke
Hi

Where can I buy new torsion bars to my 73 Charger 440cid? Mopar perf. Bars are too short ( 41") And I need 44" long torsion bars?
What bar diameter is good?
If you are looking for better handling, forget the T bars and springs and add a 1 1/9 front and either a 3/4 or 2" rear sway bar. That's what you'll need to get that heavy beast to handle.
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  #6  
Old 04-19-2006, 10:07 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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You mean that should cure the handling in this case? Forget the torsion bars....even though the other is in two pieces.
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  #7  
Old 04-19-2006, 11:13 AM
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Biggrin

No one mentioned a broken t bar though. Hey get this, since you mentioned it. WHen I worked for the dealer one of my tech drove a RoadRunner. I think it was a '73. We all loaded up in a mini van and went out for an hour long lunch one day. Came back and I saw his car and told him it's laying on the groound one one side. What did you do to it. We all went over checked it out and the damned T bar had broke into while it was sitting there during our lunch break. I guess thats a good thing, the way he drove it, if it had broke on the way home it surely would have ended up in a wreck.
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  #8  
Old 04-19-2006, 02:47 PM
mopar_nocar mopar_nocar is offline
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rolleyes2 ooops

i totally missed the '73 being different.


sorry.

sb
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  #9  
Old 04-19-2006, 04:57 PM
custom880 custom880 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
If you are looking for better handling, forget the T bars and springs and add a 1 1/9 front and either a 3/4 or 2" rear sway bar. That's what you'll need to get that heavy beast to handle.
DWC since you are the Charger guy I have a couple of questions for ya. can you still put a rear sway bar in one of these beasts if it is mini tubbed? I am going to be tubbing the 73 Charger that I have but not to radical. The front nose will be dropped down with a chin spoiler underneath, fat tires in the back. I am not looking for crazy handling because i know with the front dropped it will be a turd on the road, but it is really only going to be a street/mild strip car to start. Hopefully in the future I can work the car all the way up to a blown Hemi car.
Fiberglass bulge hood
Fiberglass fenders
no heater box
no wipers
manual steering
manual brake
stock interior
stock chrome bumpers
The car will lose about 200 pounds, maybe more with the aluminum engine parts. The car will have a 400big block with Eagle H beams, .040 over KB hyper pistons, sealed power rings, full groove Clevite mains and rod bearings, rods and mains are cut, block is zero decked. 452 heads with mild porting, one piece stainless valves. Huges cam 562 lift. RPM performer intake with a 800 Thunder series carb. 3.55 sure grip, 727 tourqflite race built, Dynamic converter 3000 stall. Looking for low 12's with this pig. Think I have a chance in the thick Florida air?
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  #10  
Old 04-20-2006, 02:39 AM
DartGT66 DartGT66 is offline
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For some reason, the '73 & up B.bodies have a tendency of breaking the torsion bars. I believe it's pretty rare with any other mopars?
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  #11  
Old 04-20-2006, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custom880
DWC since you are the Charger guy I have a couple of questions for ya. can you still put a rear sway bar in one of these beasts if it is mini tubbed? I am going to be tubbing the 73 Charger that I have but not to radical. The front nose will be dropped down with a chin spoiler underneath, fat tires in the back. I am not looking for crazy handling because i know with the front dropped it will be a turd on the road, but it is really only going to be a street/mild strip car to start. Hopefully in the future I can work the car all the way up to a blown Hemi car.
Fiberglass bulge hood
Fiberglass fenders
no heater box
no wipers
manual steering
manual brake
stock interior
stock chrome bumpers
The car will lose about 200 pounds, maybe more with the aluminum engine parts. The car will have a 400big block with Eagle H beams, .040 over KB hyper pistons, sealed power rings, full groove Clevite mains and rod bearings, rods and mains are cut, block is zero decked. 452 heads with mild porting, one piece stainless valves. Huges cam 562 lift. RPM performer intake with a 800 Thunder series carb. 3.55 sure grip, 727 tourqflite race built, Dynamic converter 3000 stall. Looking for low 12's with this pig. Think I have a chance in the thick Florida air?

The stock rear sway bar mounts on the frame rail in front of the axle and the arms point rearward and mount on the plate under the axle. So the mini tub should not be a problem. Sounds like your going for some drag racing anyway. The cars heavy, so get all the weight off of it that you can or build some really huge HP.
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2006, 03:30 AM
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Biggrin

Quote:
Originally Posted by DartGT66
For some reason, the '73 & up B.bodies have a tendency of breaking the torsion bars. I believe it's pretty rare with any other mopars?
That's intresting, now that you mentioned it. I would say it's due to weight, but the C bodies should be a lot heavier than the B body. May have been just a flaw in the casting at the time that made a weaker bar, or do you have any better ideas?
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2006, 08:23 PM
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Ray Bell Ray Bell is offline
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Casting?

Most likely reason for torsion bar and spring failures is a stress-raising mark or indentation... as little as a scratch can start it... or rust.

Is it possible these cars had exposure to stone damage that others didn't?
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  #14  
Old 04-27-2006, 08:32 PM
custom880 custom880 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
The stock rear sway bar mounts on the frame rail in front of the axle and the arms point rearward and mount on the plate under the axle. So the mini tub should not be a problem. Sounds like your going for some drag racing anyway. The cars heavy, so get all the weight off of it that you can or build some really huge HP.

I think I can drop about 300 pounds and still keep the car looking somewhat stock. Not really sure about tubbing the car, maybe in the future. It is strictly a play car and I have no intentions of ever trying to make it a real show car. More likely a street strip car. I am looking at a three generation engine set up. The first is my 400. Second engine will be a 440 somewhat more radical, and last one will be a Hemi fully blown. It will take years to get there but I look forward to the trip.
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2006, 09:09 PM
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Biggrin

You should be able to get more than 300 lbs out of it. With a tube A arms and a tube K frame and a one piece front end that should get you way over 300 lbs of weight removed. You could go even further than that, but I guess it depends on what you want it too look like, meaning streetable or all out race. Sounds like a good idea though.
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2006, 10:02 PM
Tarrbabe Tarrbabe is offline
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Default That was a typo wasn't it.........

A 2" rear sway bar?
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  #17  
Old 04-27-2006, 10:28 PM
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Ray Bell Ray Bell is offline
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You could use that in conjunction with a spool, I guess... pick up the inside wheel so you don't wear the tyre too much in cornering.

It would oversteer terribly, however...
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2006, 11:45 PM
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SSHAKERR SSHAKERR is offline
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How can a stock swaybar work with a tubbed car? You wouldnt tub unless you were moving the springs&perches inboard. With the springs moved, connection points at shock plates becomes narrower. Bigger rubber would interfere with the arms anyway. I had an Addco sway bar on a 69 coronet. Mounted along rear housing with endlinks attatched to brackets on the frame. Maybe if you go that route with a shorter swaybar and custom mounts you could pull it off. I wonder how wide Addco's A-body swaybars are? Though I dont think tubbed cars belong on road courses, if ya catch my drift.
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