Tapping noise on top end!

[Jim13]

Ugly tapping sound coming from top end when I started it today. Engine is a 360. I'm not a good enough mechanic to tell if its a lifter or rocker arm, or something else.

I pulled the valve cover and its getting lots of oil. The only thing I could find out of place is 5 of my rockerarms will wiggle about 1/8" on the shaft. Is this normal?

I want to run it on Wed. so help me, please!

[Jim13]

All the valves are still connected, but I can push down the valvesprings with my thumb. I have to push hard, but am I supposed to be able to do this?

[dwc43]

No, you should not be able to do that. Your springs are shot. Better check the bottom of your lifters too and make sure they have a crown and not a depression or you will need lifters an maybe a cam too. Sorry.

[Jim13]

Thanks for replying Dwc.

This has less than 1,500 miles on the rebuild, so the cam and lifters should be ok. But I did grab some rebuilt "J" heads off the shelf and slap them on there, It wouldn't surprise me much if they installed used springs.

So, how are the weak springs making all the noise? Are they my only problem?

[dwc43]

They are bouncing when they close causing slack when they bounce open. Like I said before, it can damage the lifters and cam so check them.

[Jim13]

Chit!

I hate to tear it apart again! I'll do it tonight.

check your PM.

[dwc43]

I sent you a PM, but I'm at work right now and wont be online much longer. MAybe Tue. evening.

[Jim13]

Ok. Thanks!

[George G. Leverette]

Off shore lifters are failure prone and could be the problem. High volume pump? Oil flows around two of the head bolts, second from the front on drivers side , and second fromrear on passengers side, these bolts have a reduced diameter where the oil flows around them. The springs should match the cam, what cam are you using?

[Jim13]

http://http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D6901&N=115&autoview=sku

Here's the cam. The springs are stock. But do they were fine when I shut the car off. I do have a high volume oil pump, and head bolts are in the correct locations.

[Kevin Garceau]

I know you been running it and with weak springs can take out the cam and lifters.

Take a night and go through it, you will be glad you did even for peace of mind later.

[Jim13]

Ok, I tore apart the top end and found 2 collapsed lifters.
Very good news for me, I was afraid it was worse. The cam looks fine.

New lifters and chromemoly pushrods are in the mail.

Thank you for your help!

store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=822%2D16 &searchinresults=false&N=115&y=9&x=19

[1973Swinger]

Ummm, you really should get a set of valve springs too, you should never be able to press them in with your thumb, do yourself a favor and change them out before you do more damage than some bad lifters.

[BlackAce]

The other thing I was thinking of was, with 1500 miles shouldn't that cam and lifters be broken in already? Replacing the cam with new lifters will were out the lobes.

[Jim13]

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I had already replaced the springs with some that match the cam.

So new springs, new lifters, new pushrods, going on a cam with about 1,500 miles. Should be ok just to start right up right? Or should I do the breakin process again?

[72Challenger]

You absolutely need to break in the new lifters. They need to match themselves to the cam.

[George G. Leverette]

Use GM assembly lube to break in those new lifters. Really wish you had contacted www.Hughesengines.com to get a recommendation on a good cam and matching springs. Those are excellent lifters hate to see them wasted on a wiped cam lobe.

[1973Swinger]

without a doubt, break it in and hope for the best

[Jim13]

Ok, I will break it in.

I had a local speed shop match the springs and lifters to the cam. The pushrods are coming from there also.