Starter problem

[larry408]

I finally have 318 with a 904 back in my 73 Dart Sport. I had to buy a new starter for it. on the starter that is listed for it the top bolt hole is not lining up. I bought another starter for a 75 and it will bolt in but is locking up . What do I need to look for? I am going to try a starter from another store.

[rumblefish360]

I never heard of this. Stock starters?

[dwc43]

There's only 3 types of starters. The '68 and up till around '80's are all the same no matter whether it goes on a 440 or a 318. The new hi torque starter of the newer models will also fit your car. The only difference is it's smaller,lighter and makes more torque and uses smaller permanent magnets. The other type is the older direct drive from '67 and older. These also fit the Hemi car, but use a different bendix due to the teeth count on the starter ring on the Hemi. Most likely you did not get the new starter nose installed in the bushing that is in the bellhousing. It happens.

[larry408]

I did some more checking and I am not getting enough voltage through my battery cable. The cable looks to be in good condition. I took the starter off and used a jumper cable through the relay and the starter works.

[dwc43]

Check the battery first. If it's up, then cut back some of the insulation on the starter cable on both ends. I have seen corrsion from the battery work it's way down through the cable and eat it up. With the insulation on it, you'll never know it. ALso take your starters to the local Advance auto and let them check them for free. You sure your not missing anything?

[ehostler]

Unless you are doing a restoration, I would recommend custom battery cables. I paid $65 for my set. All cables and connectors were to my spec. I went a little overboard and got the 00 AWG from the battery to the starter and 00 AWG from the battery to the block. Now the starter gets all the current that it wants...

[larry408]

I replaced the battery cable and the starter works fine now. Now I am not getting any fire through the coil. I replaced the coil but it did not help. Will try the control unit next as I have another one here. I think that I also have another complete engine wiring harness that I will change to as the one on the car doesn't look to good.

[dwc43]

Check the ballast resistor first. That little white porcelin box on the firewall. It most likely is your problem with it not firing.

[larry408]

I was told that I need 9 volts across the + and - connectors on the coil. When I check with my ohm meter I am on getting 5.26 volts. When I jump the ballast resistor I am getting 7.75 volts. Do I need a new control box?

[dwc43]

If you jumped the balast and you still did not get any fire at the coil, it may be a bad ECU.

[larry408]

I am getting fire to the coil but on 5.26 volts. When I jump the ballast it goes up to 7.75 volts and I need 9 volts. I am thinking that I need a new control box.

[72Challenger]

Have you measured the voltage going into the control box? If it's low going in, it will be low coming out.

[George G. Leverette]

Check each individual component, pull the connector off the ECU, with a volt meter check the sockets on pins 1, 2, and 3 the voltage should be within 1 V of battery voltage.
Measure across pins 4 and 5 with the ohm guage the reading should be between 150-900 ohms. Measure across the top of the ballast resistor with the ohm meter approximately 4.75-5.75 ohms, across the bottom
1.12-1.38 ohms, these maesurements are taken with the wires disconnected. The coil primary resistance should be approximately 1.9 ohms and the secondary 9.50 ohms. The ECU should be checked to ensure proper ground. Checking components will eleminate the plug and play method of trouble shooting and purchase of parts not needed. Good hunting.