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Old 06-18-2006, 04:54 PM
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jimm II jimm II is offline
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Default TTI Header Install

Hi Guys; The specs. 1974 Duster 360 4spd car had ALL front bushings, centre link, tie rods, Motor mounts replaced 3 Years ago.
The Header / Exhaust TTI ceramic coated/ polished...."X " exhaust with muffers and tail pipes.followed instructions to a T.
The drivers side was like five minutes to install, unlike JR headers (Mopar performance) Hooker Super Comps. These were a dream. Started all header bolts lots of clearance ( driver side).
Passenger side tried to install them staight up NO way, Rolled engine NO way. Shit happens folks had to undo lower control arm and drive torsion back to get clearance. Worked great.
Hell the last set of Super Comps was like 7 hours.
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Old 06-18-2006, 10:23 PM
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909duster 909duster is offline
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Default install

Jim,

I have a 75 360 duster same headers as yours you needed to turn the wheels to full lock left. I did it in minutes with my car on jack stands lying on my back. Turning the wheels to the left pushes the steering over for the clearence needed.
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Old 06-18-2006, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 909duster
Jim,

I have a 75 360 duster same headers as yours you needed to turn the wheels to full lock left. I did it in minutes with my car on jack stands lying on my back. Turning the wheels to the left pushes the steering over for the clearence needed.
Good to hear, I have to install TTI's on my '74 Duster 360 ('72 w/'74 susp/Kmember)

I may come by Monday or Tuesday, 'need 2 solid lifters.
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:20 PM
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Locomotion Locomotion is offline
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When I installed my TTI's, I did have to raise the engine and move the steering around. But for me, the passenger side was easier! I removed the oil filter and they eliminate the need for a 90* adapter. But I was able to get them in from the bottom without removing anything. However, I did have the car on my open trailer which is open in the middle. That gave be plenty of maneuvering room underneath.
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:09 PM
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jimm II jimm II is offline
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While I had the tie rod, centre link and right idler arm off ;even when the header was straight up it wouldn't go. It was just a extra hour work. Its in and tight now and look great.
Now I'm installing the clutch crossshaft and making sure I have lots of clearance. Thanks for the replies guys.
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Old 06-20-2006, 12:10 AM
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On my 72 Duster 340, I do exactly what you did, I pull the torsion bar out, makes the job so much less stressful.
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:47 PM
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Got the crosshaft installed ,had to make a new bracket on the inside to square up the shaft. The lower arm still touched the header, removed and shortened it by 1/8 " worked great and cleared ...And yes I put new motor mounts & trans mount in. Used a mini starter worked great. The X exhaust went well the large brackets supplied on my applcation would not fit the seat bely bracket bolts ( this was noted in the instuctions ...Not all applications) . Had to readjust carb settings ( lean) . Nice deep mellow sound better then the stock I had... these are great.
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Old 06-30-2006, 01:49 PM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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The driver side was no problem with the TTIs, removing the torsion bar eased installing the pasenger side header. Had a problem clearing the steering linkage on both sides, installing shims solved the proble. Would like better clearance just in front of the X on the tail pipes, anyone else have any concerns?
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