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  #1  
Old 06-23-2006, 02:12 AM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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Default Aftermarket Shifters... what are you running and do you recommend?

in the market for a new shifter for my 68 cuda with a 727 trans... currently in there is a B&M Megashifter... and i really don't care for it much.. just too much slaping it around to do its thing...

so.. what'cha got?

JOe
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2006, 03:18 AM
rr69half6bbl rr69half6bbl is offline
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Joe,
i use the hurst v-matic 2, Its a regular shifter with reverse lockout and will work also for full ratchet when wanted it is basically a dual gate shifter, Its not over priced andI beat on mine for years with out 1 fail. doug
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  #3  
Old 06-23-2006, 03:46 AM
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Biggrin

I agree, V matic II or any Hurst shifter. Just stay away from the b&m junk. THey tend to wear quickly especially the second gear gate. You get it into 2nd and can't get into third. The quick silver b&m junk is the worst for this problem.
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  #4  
Old 06-23-2006, 09:19 AM
kick_the_reverb kick_the_reverb is offline
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Yes, B&M is junk.
When I had my Barracuda, I found out that the shifter that fit best was the Turbo Action Cheetah. It's no baragain, but it works real well. Very beefy. Not stamped thin gauge metal like the B&M junk.

Ran
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  #5  
Old 06-23-2006, 12:45 PM
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I have had no problems with my B&M Quick Silver shifter for my automatic tranny and have had it now for 3 yrs. Works just fine...
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  #6  
Old 06-23-2006, 03:56 PM
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I have a Quicksilver in one of the cars... I think the Dart... seems to work ok... I use the Pro Shifter alot... Cheap and works ok and fits the custom consoles I build...I don't like the goofy little lids that come with them... My brother has a V-Matic 2 and has had nothing but trouble with it and swears it's the last Hurst he is ever going to buy...

I do like the Cheeta... little spendy but you get what you pay for...

I have found, for every person that has something good to say about something, there is someone that that says it sucks...

Personally I don't see a difference in quallity between Hurst and B&M but I must not be looking in the right places..... I do know the Star Shifter is a POS but hey... they only cost $50.00 buck too... again you get what you pay for....
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  #7  
Old 06-23-2006, 08:07 PM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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question... how do i know if i need a shifter for a...

Forward Valve body
or
Reverse Valve body?

JOe
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  #8  
Old 06-23-2006, 08:16 PM
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Bob7z7 Bob7z7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingofthehill
question... how do i know if i need a shifter for a...

Forward Valve body
or
Reverse Valve body?

JOe
By knowing which is in your transmission.
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  #9  
Old 06-23-2006, 10:22 PM
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Biggrin

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingofthehill
question... how do i know if i need a shifter for a...

Forward Valve body
or
Reverse Valve body?

JOe
If you shift like this PRND21 it's forward if it shifts PRN12D then it's reverse.
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  #10  
Old 06-23-2006, 10:25 PM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
If you shift like this PRND21 it's forward if it shifts PRN12D then it's reverse.
Your so smart...

gotta love those easy answers to stupid questions...

JOe
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  #11  
Old 06-23-2006, 10:32 PM
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Scatman 340 Scatman 340 is offline
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I use a cheap B&M Z-Gate. It works flawlessly. Perhaps it is the magnificent TCI tranny that masks any flaws in the shifter though.

Rock`
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  #12  
Old 06-24-2006, 03:59 PM
70AARCuda 70AARCuda is offline
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Been using the same B&M Pro Stick junk since 1988...never missed a gear with the reverse valve body shifter...

it is so junky...i bought a second one for my daughter's 71 Dart.....
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2006, 05:14 PM
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superbee1970440 superbee1970440 is offline
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I have a Hurst quarter stick in the superbee & I love it. My only gripe about all aftermarket mopar shifters, that I have seen, is there no option for a rear exit cable. I think the install would be cleaner beacuse the cable for mine is pretty close to my headers.

Just my $.02...

Sam
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  #14  
Old 06-24-2006, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superbee1970440
the cable for mine is pretty close to my headers.

Just my $.02...

Sam
thats what got me... they werent touching the headers but close enough to melt the housing on the cable....

JOe
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  #15  
Old 06-24-2006, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingofthehill
thats what got me... they werent touching the headers but close enough to melt the housing on the cable....

JOe

I melted my cable at first but then found a way to anchor it out of the way.
I've seen rear exit cable shifters for a powerglide, just not a 727..

Sam
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  #16  
Old 06-25-2006, 03:27 AM
mhenesian mhenesian is offline
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Default B&M Pro Stick Issues

We're using a B&M Pro Stick in the '69 Roadrunner. Lifetime warranty too. We also like the removable aluminum cover that's "pinned" on. We might switch to the B&M Pro Ratchet shifter since it's mistake-proof in race conditions and the Pro Stick/Quarter Stick is not !

You can shift the Pro Stick into neutral from 2nd if your fingers slip off the lever before you let go of the shifter handle/ball. Once the lever is released, you can push the shifter into neutral with moderate effort. I hear that the Hurst Quarter Stick has the same shifting issues.

We did have a major problem routing the 5 ft B&M "race" cable. It's heavy duty for sure, but too short, and we couldn't get enough clearance with the headers. After a week, the cable siezed up due to excess heat. We routed an 8 ft B&M "race" cable thru the speedometer grommet hole in the firewall after looping it under the dash, and over the steering column. We followed the speedo cable path to the driver side front of the torqueflight. We also added some silver/heat shield tubing and a 2 ft section of 1/2" heater hose (after slitting it open with an exacto knife) for extra protection of the cable near the headers and steering linkage. This has held up for over a year now.

I agree with previous comments, a rear exit cable at the tranny would be much much better in our B & E body cars. Cable installation is a royal pain in the as.... and replacement cables aren't cheap (> $50 ea). Also, you hate to have the cable seize-up at the track as the heat pours out of the headers at the end of a run,

Mark
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  #17  
Old 06-25-2006, 03:40 AM
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Biggrin

IF you wrap your headers like you should, you'll pick up HP by lowering under hood temps and keeping heat inside the headers that makes the gasses exspand faster. This will prevent your shifter cables from melting too.
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  #18  
Old 06-25-2006, 09:36 AM
MoparKid72 MoparKid72 is offline
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I'm running a Hurts Indy 2 i love it no play great feel. And at $120 caint go wrong...
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  #19  
Old 06-25-2006, 10:28 AM
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Long or Liberty pistol grip vgates work very well on real transmissions.....
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  #20  
Old 06-25-2006, 11:58 AM
larry408 larry408 is offline
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I am installing a B&M Z-Gate in my 73 Dart Sport project car.
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  #21  
Old 06-25-2006, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHD
Long or Liberty pistol grip vgates work very well on real transmissions.....
Define "real"...

Sam
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  #22  
Old 06-25-2006, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superbee1970440
Define "real"...

Sam

Ones with a clutch not a converter.

Im using a T/A SCS. Love it.
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  #23  
Old 06-25-2006, 06:25 PM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
IF you wrap your headers like you should, you'll pick up HP by lowering under hood temps and keeping heat inside the headers that makes the gasses exspand faster. This will prevent your shifter cables from melting too.
but then that hides my expensive stainless steel headers (my ricer comment for the day hehehehe)

JOe
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  #24  
Old 06-25-2006, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastback340
Ones with a clutch not a converter.

Im using a T/A SCS. Love it.

All this time & now I learn that my transmission is fake! I got ripped off!

What is a T/A SCS?

Sam
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  #25  
Old 06-25-2006, 07:37 PM
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Biggrin

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingofthehill
but then that hides my expensive stainless steel headers (my ricer comment for the day hehehehe)

JOe

I'll overlook it then, just this once.
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  #26  
Old 06-25-2006, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastback340
Ones with a clutch not a converter.

Im using a T/A SCS. Love it.
Clutch does not always define your tranny....

torch
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  #27  
Old 06-26-2006, 12:24 AM
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Oh, the Z-gate. I didnt like that one at all, but it was better than the Indy POS shifter that was on my car when I bought it. It was literally a lever that went through the tunnel and linked to the selector lever. From P to 1st was 6 detents in about 4 inches, no indicator and no lock out of any kind. From a light I had to pull it down to 1st and count up 2 clicks to know it was in D, and you could overshoot D from 2nd and end up in R (did that) or even P (never but it could have happened)! Thankfully the motor would die before any catastrophic damage was done, but that was one jerry rigged shifter. I use the Hurst Pro-matic 2 now, full ratchet both directions and a unique "pull the whole stick up" reverse lock out, and it fit under my stock '65 A mini console.
rear exit cable shifter, check out ArtCarr 42074
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