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  #1  
Old 06-27-2006, 01:12 PM
karbuf karbuf is offline
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Default 1963 Dart Convertible: What would you do?

I just bought a 1963 dodge dart conv, with the small slant-six and automatic push button tranny. I am thinking I want to put a v8 in it, and keep the auto so momma can drive it too. Since this is my first mopar (historically i have been a Pontiac man) I don't know what to expect in terms of exhaust manifold clearance (maybe even headers). how much torque my tranny and rearend can take, engine mountpoints etc...

How would you do this? Is there another stock v8 dodge application that would work here, something more common that would be easier to find?? Any thoughts would be appreciated! By the way, fabrication is not a problem, I'd just prefer to keep it to a minimum.

thanks,
karbuf....
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2006, 02:02 PM
moparots moparots is offline
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Welcome aboard!
Some people might say leave the six in there, and keep it origional.
Shumacher Creative services might be able to help you with the engine swap over. Although I didnt see your specific year and application in theyre ad, they might have the engine mounts available. They have an ad in Mopar Muscle magazine each month 206-364-7151

TTI might have the headers for your project also, I use the word might alot because Im not quite as familiar with the year of your Dart. Its a little older than Im used to. I have a 68 4 door Im going to put a 440 into.

Help me out on this one guys. You will want to install torque boxes, so you dont bend the body and frame (if you install a big block or maybe even a small block, thats where im not sure)
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2006, 02:03 PM
Dart 65 Dart 65 is offline
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This isn't a hard swap. First, I'd go with a 360 for power. They're cheap, plentiful, and feature a lot of parts interchangeability with all of the "LA" engines (273, 318, 340, 360).

Schumacher Creative Industries makes the motor mounts for the swap. They bolt up to the stock "K" member. I've read that the V8 and Slant 6 "K" members are the same, but I can't confirm that. Once the engine is in, you'll need either the hipo '68-'70 340 exhaust manifolds or fenderwells. There's no way around that. The 340 manifolds are increasingly rare, so be prepared to pony up if you go that route. Suspension clearance will be tight, but will fit. You need a '64-'66 V8 center link. That's the only thing that will work for that part.

I'd recommend a front disk conversion, too, with the V8 power. There are a lot of kits out there now, but I'm using a '73-'76 "A" body (Dart, Duster, Dart Sport, Valiant) which give big bolt pattern.

For your transmission, you can use any V8 904 or 727 unit, but I'd go with the 727 if you're planning to put serious power to the ground.

Finally, you'll probably want a bigger axle, so find an 8.75" housing. "A" body 8.75" axles are nearly extinct, so find one for a mid-sized car and have it cut down. That's exactly what I did.

I think the only problem is the exhaust pipes going around the gas tank. That can be solved by ending the pipes in front of the rear wheels like the T/A Challengers.

Good luck and post some pics if you can.
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  #4  
Old 06-27-2006, 02:18 PM
custom880 custom880 is offline
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Are you looking for lots of power, decent power, or something that is a V8 but doen't drink to much gas? You can build the slant to respectable power levels for not to much money. A 273 would work nicely in the Dart, or a 318. Schumacher doesn't make a slant to V8 swap for your year. The location of the motor mounts on your K member are different than post 65 cars. I believe You would need to locate a member from an early A body V8 car. Also your 63 will have tapered axles in the back. You will need to find a pre 65 small block trans (904 or 727) if you want to keep the pushbuttons. You can use a 8.25 A body rear end, they have more than enough meat to handle a small V8, and are more plentiful at bone yards. Stock cast iron exhaust are not to tough to find and dual exhaust should be a snap for any decent muffler shop.
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  #5  
Old 06-27-2006, 08:59 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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What would I do, hummmmmmmmm;

360/727/8-1/4 with 3.23's and a 25 inch tire. Cruise till I caught the sun.

Be aware that each engine family has there own trans. Slant 6's only use slant 6 trannys. Small blocks use small block trannys, big block use big block trannys.
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  #6  
Old 06-27-2006, 10:18 PM
Crank Crank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumblefish360
What would I do, hummmmmmmmm;

ire. Cruise till 360/727/8-1/4 with 3.23's and a 25 inch tI cght the sun.au

Be aware that each engine family has there own trans. Slant 6's only use slant 6 trannys. Small blocks use small block trannys, big block use big block trannys.
sounds good to me
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  #7  
Old 06-27-2006, 10:20 PM
Dart 65 Dart 65 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custom880
Schumacher doesn't make a slant to V8 swap for your year.
They sure do: http://www.engine-swaps.com/

I believe Doug Thorley makes headers for this swap, but we're talking big bucks. Schumacher was planning to make headers, too, but I don't think they ever did. Maybe enough of a phone call campaign would do it.
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2006, 05:49 PM
karbuf karbuf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumblefish360
What would I do, hummmmmmmmm;

360/727/8-1/4 with 3.23's and a 25 inch tire. Cruise till I caught the sun.

Be aware that each engine family has there own trans. Slant 6's only use slant 6 trannys. Small blocks use small block trannys, big block use big block trannys.
I think we are on the same wave length! Didn't know about the engine/tranny deal... thanks.
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  #9  
Old 06-28-2006, 06:19 PM
chromeazone chromeazone is offline
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Ditto that about the transmissions!
I always thought small V8 727's fit the Slant Six!
Just when I thought I was catching on to all this Mopar stuff...
But then, I haven't owned a six cylinder anything in 35 years, until 10 months ago, and now have two slants.
Good tip!
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  #10  
Old 06-29-2006, 01:44 AM
64dartwagon 64dartwagon is offline
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Default 63 A bodies

63 A bodies have a slight hump in the firewall from the wiper motor that may cause a problem from what I've read and heard, depending on build date. Hopefully it's a later 63. You can use factory exhaust manifolds but they are restrictive. You need a 64-66 V8 centerlink, as it has about a 1" drop compared to the /6 link. 63 never came with a V8. I do recommend disc up front for daily driving. Regardless of brake types change over to a dual reservoir master, just for safety. The convertible should already have tork boxes installed from the factory and have extra bracing for flex due to not having a roof. You can use a later 8 1/4 out of a volare or such and it's only an inch wider or so flange to flange than the early A body rear. There is a great book out there that has alot of great info in reference to the swap. It covers cooling, fuel, electrical, rear end, exhaust and brakes. It's called Chrysler Performance Upgrades, it's well worth the money.
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  #11  
Old 06-29-2006, 02:17 AM
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pishta pishta is offline
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MOFO!!! I just spent over an hour writing a history of my 273 to 451 journey in my '65 and my wireless keyboard just backed me out of the web page!! Im going to bed....
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  #12  
Old 06-29-2006, 10:13 AM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Ugh! I hate that stuff.
All well, I guess we'll have to wait on it.
Karbuf, cool. Yea dude. Thats what I would do. Nice cars. Some problems in interchange when they get that old. Some in and outs in engine compartment size and other things pop up and throw you for a mind bender on how to overcome the problem.
I'm not up on how or what they may be. But I would still go for it.
I like the 360 for it's torque. Even a stock smog engine can do well. A few bolt ons and a cam (Mild) will produce some great power while retaining decent mileage.

I think the hardest part of it all will be retaining the push button shift like it is now. I'm sure theres away around it.
There ain't nothin like having a car that just gets up and goes. Like that bunny.
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2006, 01:28 PM
Dart 65 Dart 65 is offline
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Yes, Chrysler Performance Upgrades is a very good book for swapping parts. The first article I'd seen in print on a V8 conversion in the early "A" bodies was in a book a book called Chrysler Engine Swapping Tips and Techniques, a collection of Hot Rod articles reprinted in one book. There's no date given, but they did it the old-school way, by changing the cross member, which tells you how old the article is. The information is still valid, except for the motor mounts.

One thing that no one else mentioned is the fact that you'll need to get an accelerator pedal from a '64-'66 "A" body V8, or there are places that manufacture them, too. If I can find a link of a site, I'll post it, too.
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  #14  
Old 06-29-2006, 05:49 PM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dart 65
Yes, Chrysler Performance Upgrades is a very good book for swapping parts. The first article I'd seen in print on a V8 conversion in the early "A" bodies was in a book a book called Chrysler Engine Swapping Tips and Techniques, a collection of Hot Rod articles reprinted in one book. There's no date given, but they did it the old-school way, by changing the cross member, which tells you how old the article is. The information is still valid, except for the motor mounts.

One thing that no one else mentioned is the fact that you'll need to get an accelerator pedal from a '64-'66 "A" body V8, or there are places that manufacture them, too. If I can find a link of a site, I'll post it, too.
Ooh, never had that problem. I always started with a V8. What is the difference, maybe the slant is a hard linkage and the V8 is a cable? I read that same book and they said a B/RB cant be wedged in there too. Shows you what time has done to old tech. My only sticker putting my B in was the steering joint around the Hi-Po manifold. The manifold looks like it was almost made for this, its just about 1/2 inch away. I milled a 4 degree cut off the mounting face so it hung closer to the block. I made a steering joint out of a 1/2 drive Universal joint and a deep socket! Very compact, Looks cool and you know it can handle the torque! Also the entire K had to be spaced down from the frame because the 727 is a fatter trans in the midsection, not a problem in a stick car due to the larger hump. If I had all the money I have into this project to start over, I would deffinately go 360 with R/T heads. No motor mount fabrication, can use your cable/pushbutton trans and your weight over the front wheels is still close to stock. Get a newer rear though. 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 as that 7.25 is not that strong. If I had all the time from this project back, I would go back to school and get my PhD in quantum physics...and try to explain why an 8000 HP motor can only acheive 4.44 in the quarter in a 2250 lb rail.
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  #15  
Old 06-30-2006, 01:24 AM
Tarrbabe Tarrbabe is offline
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Default Very limited........

All small blocks are the same size but the engine bay is really tight. My brother had a 64 Barracuda and he put duals on it. Had to be custom built and the drivers side pipe looked like a backwards S. No clearance. The only opition is to find the fenderwell headers as I understand.
But with the light weight and a 360 it would run really GOOD.
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  #16  
Old 07-06-2006, 11:16 PM
68D100440 68D100440 is offline
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I read that TTI is making headers for the early A bodies now! When I called them they said $795.00 was suggested retail and they had sold out the first batch. They also require a special starter thats around $250.00.
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  #17  
Old 07-07-2006, 09:59 AM
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pishta pishta is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68D100440
I read that TTI is making headers for the early A bodies now! When I called them they said $795.00 was suggested retail and they had sold out the first batch. They also require a special starter thats around $250.00.
Now those I would like to see. TTI is famous for good fit and drop in installation. 800 and requires a mini starter, that is right up there with Hedman Hustlers.
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  #18  
Old 07-07-2006, 06:49 PM
Dart 65 Dart 65 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68D100440
I read that TTI is making headers for the early A bodies now! When I called them they said $795.00 was suggested retail and they had sold out the first batch. They also require a special starter thats around $250.00.
Do you have to supply your own lube?
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