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Lifters
I have a 1987 LA 360 engine (non roller) in my Dart.
Would like to put the retro hydraulic roller lifters in but I have a few questions so I don't open a can 'o' worms on myself. I already have the Roller Cam on my bench. Do I also need different pushrods? Are the stock rockers OK? Now the big Q Who has a smokin deal on the retro hydraulic lifters? They are more than I have saved so far. Anyone have a good used set they would part with? |
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YES Who knows, too many sells them to check them all. |
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Lifters
Short and to the point, Thanks DWC !
Do I need the same pushsticks as In a 1991 roller engine ? Maybe one of our members in business will read this and be able to offer a discount? |
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You are talking about two completly different oiling systems. Standard practice is new cam, new lifters or the old lifters in the same position. Some recommendations for the oil system conversion. Hardened oil pump drive P369075, High volume oil pump Melling M72HV, 3\4 or full groove bearings, Mopar push rod set P5007477, and the current oil galleys to the head need to be blocked, which can be made with a head gasket change or drill and tap the oil passages. Some dealers offer a 25% discount off all Mopar parts in the Mopar magazines.
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You don't need any of that to install a mid '80's roller cam into another LA block. The LA roller block uses the same oiling system as the non LA roller block. You never use a high volume pump with a stock oil pn either unless you want to suck it dry. You only need 10 psi for every 1000 rpm you run so the $4 Mopar oil spring in a stock pump is more than enough, but not needed here. And if you block off the oil to the heads you will burn up the rockers,push rods, shafts and valve springs.
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#7
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You cant put a roller cam and lifters from a newer block into an older one can you, where would you bolt the metal plate to that holds the lifters?
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Don't you just drill and tap the block???? That's what I do in small fords... I believe they are called spiders... at least that's what I call them.... Other than that I can't help.... I don't work on small Mopars.... all big blocks here.... |
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Cant. Lifter bores are taller in the roller motors to keep the oil control groove covered. If you put a stock roller in a non roller block, you'll expose the groove and lose oil pressure, and you have no place for the spider..Looked into this long ago. Might be able to use a retro roller that has links on it to prevent rotation and a lower oil groove.
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Wait!!
I am talking about the retro fit roller lifter kit that is supposed to fit in the older LA blocks.
Pishta is right though, I know because I tried to put a 1988 roller cam kit in my 360. Drilled and tapped the block for the spider plate etc..but when spinning the oil pump , no pressure. Tore back down and found the lifters were too talll as Pishta said. If you do this conversion you will need to bush the lifter bores. Everything else was OK though. Now I am trying to find a set of the retro roller lifters so I don't have to do any machine work to get a roller cam in. I already have the roller cam in stock, I just need those spendy reto fit roller lifters. |
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A couple of items to add;
1. The hydraulic roller lifters require a different lenght push rod than either the magnum roller push rod or the flat tappet push rod. Comp p/n is 7937-16 (7.050") when used with there roller lifter. 2. You need to change the gear on the oil pump drive to bronze when mated to a roller cam shaft. The material used in a roller cam will cause the gear on the cam and oil pump dive to eat each other up unless you go to the softer material used in the bronze gear. 3. There is no such thing as a smoking deal on roller lifters when compared to flat tappet. Expect to pay $350-$450 for a set. |
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dwc43 you are all over the place on this one, first you say that hollow push rods are needed, then you say they are not required. The next issue is to increase the pressure vs increasing the flow which is wrong. The main issue I have with the majority of your posts is they are made without considering the subject matter. The mopar folks are looking for good information that applies to their particular application that is cost effective and workable. It is counter productive to the hobby to continually post unfounded statements and comments.
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#14
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Lifters
I am sorry guys, I did not mean to cause a disagreement.
I know you respond because you want to help and I appreciate that. Please do not belittle any of our Mopar friends for trying to lend a hand or give advice. I am the KING of mistakes so it doesn't make me feel bad when someone else makes one. I know how it feels to be wrong or inaccurate, but, by golly we at least tried Please keep the opinions coming and as I work through this I can add my own experiences to be scrutinized. |
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I never said anything about using hollow push rods. Only magnum engines use hollow pushrods and we aint talking about a magnum engine. Your wrong. Period. And yes, all you need is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm and in this application it's all that is needed. Again, you are wrong. Period. I gave him info on the subject matter, you have it confused with a magnum engine that has nothing to do with the subject matter, again making you wrong. And for your last two statements why are posting unfounded incorrect statments and commments ?? |
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#17
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Dwc43
I left this forum for a year due to bashing by another member (Ed Hostler)..
I decided I would not be run off again by angry rude people. I do not challenge anyone nor do I attack people based on what they believe to be true. I apologize for causing any discomfort to anyone, no disrespect intended whatsoever. Some folks just need to mellow out a bit. |
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