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#1
08-20-2006, 12:28 PM
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should 11s be obtainable?
I was wonder if 11s would be obtainable with my combo
75 valiant 4 door 360 .030 over 9.7.1 with kb107s pocket ported 596 heads with 2.02/1.6 valves comp cams xe274 .488/.491 lift 750 edelobrock carb weiand action plus intake, 2800stall, 727 trans. 3.91 gears coming soon hooker comp headers This would be on the 100shot of juice. I was hoping for mid 11s on the juice and mid to low 12s without nitrous. Also what would be obtainable without the juice? 
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#2
08-20-2006, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
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#4
08-20-2006, 12:50 PM
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I agree. Double the compression, get a bigger cam, more gear and a Thermoquad since that is what that intake is designed to run with. You can get a nitro plate for spreadbores too. That will get you what you want. Alswo remeber rule of thumb, 100 lbs = 10 hp = 1/10 in the quarter. Weight reduction really helps, including rotating masses.
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#6
08-20-2006, 01:23 PM
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hello, mid 13's maybe. you need more rear gear, better tires, better convertor
you don't state what type of rear suspension you have. E.T. is chassis, MPH is motor. it has to dead hook ,in order to E.T. fast. just food for thought.
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#8
08-20-2006, 01:34 PM
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13's on N20 for sure. You need some SS springs to go with your snubber or next step will be ladder or 4 links. Subconnectors are a must. YOu need more gear,cam and carb like I stated before. And you need to loose and weight off the car that you can get off of it.
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#9
08-20-2006, 01:41 PM
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could you just use better 1.6:1 roller rockers to simulate the bigger cam. If not what size cam should I get. I should probably get a better intake. what size gears should I run. Think It could hit 12s on the motor that aspen did with almost the same combo. Also were do I start with weight reduction?
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#10
08-20-2006, 03:12 PM
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You really need to step up to the plate or go home for 11's. Your 4 door val is at a huge disadvantage and your suspention set up is just about as close to weak or poor as it gets.
You state "Probably subframe connectors" Wrong answer. It should not be reading "probably" ever on a go fast concern. There something your going to need. Also, once you get the car going quick, the shot of N02 , unless used out of the whole, is more for the HP. (Top end charge) Your gambling with the KB's at any more shot, low RPM hit or poor timing. It will also take more HP than you realize to go from mid 12's to high 11's than you think. The 100 shot of N02 will not do it. Have you any head flow numbers to the heads ports? Ops, forgot to answer something. Quote:
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#11
08-20-2006, 03:48 PM
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It's the cam where you are the most shy.
IMHO that is a low 14 high 13 second cam. 500 lift and 240 @ 50 or better will be required to run in the 12's with just motor. (more converter, to go with it. 3500 or o) I think the 391's will work, expecially with a short tire, and spool. Pinion snubber and stiff leafs with slicks will run 12's. No need for anything exotic there. Caltracs are easy add on if traction does become an issue. I think your intake and carb are adequate. The heads and cam are what makes all the power. The rest of the stuff just needs to work with the heads and cam. Keep in mind, when comparing other peoples combo's to your own, that when people give thier combo's out, they always downplay the mods. There's a guy I see at a local track who is always adamant that his motor is stock. Car is a 64 plymouth blevedere, motor is 440 (sounds really stock so far since 440's didn't come in B body's till 67) He then elaborates that the motor is a 68, but it is all stock. Never rebuilt. Then he will throw in that it has a 484 purple cam, holey DP carb, and the heads are still 906's, but they are from a 69 (undisclosed porting which I am sure is present). The car's not a rocket ship, but it does run mid 13's at our elevation(3800 ft). Changed the cam, heads, and induction system, but the motor is still stock? Hardly. By that thinking, my motor isn't too far off of stock either. Also, a lot of ET can be worked out of a car with fine tuning over time(years, not days). My combo has changed very little over the last 3 years but my car is 7 tenths faster. Car is a 64 330 dodge. 3 years ago: 440 .030 over, ported 452's, 9.7:1, stock valve size, stock rockers, 510" 242 @ 50 racer brown hyd cam, 750 mighty demon, air gap manifold, junkyard headers, 3500 stall dynamic, stock shifter, rev pattern 727, SS leaf springs, 410 gears, 28" slick, FBO dist and ignition, 3865 pounds with driver. Best ET 12.45 @ 108mph This year: same short block, ported 915's, 10.6:1, stock valve size, 1.5/1.6 racer brown combo rockers, same cam, same carb, same manifold, same exhaust, same converter, caltrac mono leaf, caltrac bars, B&M mega shifter, same trans, same diff, same tires, same ign, 3810 pounds with driver Best ET 11.70 @ 115 mph Slight gains in a number of areas. compression gain(one full point is said to be worth 4% in the same combo) roller rockers, shifter, traction aid. All very subtle, but have added up
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#12
08-20-2006, 04:01 PM
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What size cam should I put into it? If I do a cam swap it will be during the winter. The heads I'm not sure They have pocket porting and some bowls and opening work. Should I step up to a solid cam or stay hydrualic.
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#13
08-20-2006, 04:14 PM
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Your heads sound ok as is (depending on who did the work.
I'm not a SB guy, but as I said, you'll need at least 240 @ 50 duration, and 500 lift in your cam. Look around at what the cam manufacturers have to offer you with specs like that. Hyd should be fine, and makes a change to adjustable rockers optional, where solid makes it mandatory.
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#14
08-20-2006, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
I'd get me a 292* .509" cam and a new Thermoquad. Keep your intake and heads. You really should think about that 100 shot of N20 on those KB pistons. They wont take it. Hope you gapped the rings wide enough. As for weight, everywhere. You could do a whole fiberglass front clip. Since it's a 4 door, I doubt you can get door for it, but you can look anyway. Remove the glass and run lexan all around. Fiberglass bumpers. No carpet,headliners, etc. etc. You could pull the dash and have a sheet metal one made. Toss the heater box and wipers. I take it the way you are talking by using a spool that it wont see the street, so that's why I told you to toss the stuff. You can't use the spool on the street. Then there's lighter rods, aluminum heads, tube A arms, notch and lighten the K frame. Race shocks. Reducing weight is just up to you. There's just so much I could list and still leave stuff out.
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#16
08-20-2006, 10:09 PM
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he can tell ya
Quote:
Shaun
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#17
08-20-2006, 10:59 PM
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I'd run the XE284H before the purple 292. Then again, if I was looking to do better, it would be an extreme lift, extreme cam XE285HL with .545 lift to better take advantage of the Edel. head.
By the way, the KB's will take a 100 N02 shot if the rings were done right and the rest is done perfect. Just becareful or you'll have a mess on your hands. Your best bet from here is weight reduction and weight transfer to get that short wheel base heavy weight car to run on down the line quick. The quicker off the line you are, the better you'll do. Then focus on how quick you get 100 MPH. No get on it and get'er done. (Aint that how you Southern boys say it or somethin like it? LOL) Reguardless, stay on it! And have fun.
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#18
08-21-2006, 12:16 AM
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opinions
You can get my opinion too,or you can call an expert.
What is your goal,specifically? High 11's,mid 11's? The rules in the NHRA state that you need a roll cage to run 11.49. Do you have a reverse lockout shifter? A puke can? Where's your best power at? Is it at 2800 r's-sounds like to me it will be at about 3500,so you have to consider that,because you need a stall that coordinates the two together. You need the tallest,widest tires you can fit on it. And you need to get rid of the leafs and get some ladder bars(screw the four links-you have about 100 different combinations of adjustments and only about six that work)and coil-over shocks. You need to move the weight to the back,as much as you can. Put the fuel cell as far to the rear and to the pass side as you can. Put the battery behind the rear pass wheel well as high as you can get it without going over the height of the whell well. Like DW said,you also need to drop a bunch of weight. Get rid of the torsion bars and go to a mustang II front end. Use Lexan,instead of glass. Get rid of everything except the essentials. Next,you need a good shifter. Have you thought of a line lock,or trans-brake setup? You need to for 11's,it's faster than you think. You'll need to warm your tires good,without warming your brakes. I like the Cheetah and B&M's. You should have light wheels too. Narrow ones on the front and as big ones on the back. Do you have a motor plate? You need one for in front of the engine and one for between the engine and tranny. And yeah,the cam is too small,the 3.91's need to be replaced with 5.13's,or so-especially if you can get 30-32inch tires in the back(which you need,if you can't go wider than 10 inches). You really need to call a tech guy. They are out there and Mike at Chassisworks is one of the best. Shaun 
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#19
08-21-2006, 12:59 AM
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All good advice to go fast, but a little excessive in some areas.
Lots of cars run 11's on leafs, 410's, 28" tires, no trans brake...etc 11's are fast. No question. I think there is an obvious question that is being overlooked here. The thead is about running 11's in a 4 door A body with a 360 and a bottle It would seem to me that this is a low budget build. UNLESS some real good luck at a swap meet comes along, that leaves out, lexan, trans brake(and a diff that will take the pounding of a trans brake), tubing and big tires, mustang 2 suspension, fiberglass body panels, E heads, a stoker motor, a BB etc. So, what is the budget here? Best way to run 11's with a 4 dr on a low budget? A junkyard 360 with a BIG shot of NOS and a few decent bolt ons.(carb intake cam etc,....) MAY do it. Just get a few 360's and be good at swapping them.
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#20
08-21-2006, 01:18 AM
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My duster ran mid-High 11's with a small block, buut, it had a 290 .050 roller cam, and a 3500 stall. Heads were 894's, (Extreme) and carb was a 750 Edel.
I would not run the Edel though, unless you have a lot of experience with them, they are a pain to tune, more so with a crap load of cam. Demon, would be more suitable, I think, in the 700 range. (metering rod carbs, such as Edel's and TQ's, hate big cams with eratic vacuum) I have no lcue what Nos would have done to it, and don't really want to know. Agree with Rumble on the cam, manifold, ect. Can be done on springs, pretty easy, I did.
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#21
08-21-2006, 09:46 AM
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Linear Mode
