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  #1  
Old 09-01-2006, 05:35 PM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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Default Ford Taurus Electric fan install.... Mounting questions

there were a few in an old thread i posted about electric fans ( http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98344 ) that some recommended the electric 3 prong fan from the 86-94 Ford Taurus...

i hit up pick-a-part today (God i love that place ) and noticed 2 different style 3 wire fans... 1 has the plug directly wired to the motor, coming off with a harness going to a 3 prong oval plug about 12-14" off the fan motor... the other is a direct plug to the motor with 3 wires...

i did a dry fit on my radiator and they both look really good... the one with the plug directly on the motor is really close to the pump pulley.. the other one is slimmer...

anyhow... i was curious if anyone who has done this mod has any pic on how they mounted it to the radiator... and if they know wich one is the "correct" one recommended..

Thanks

JOe

(sorry for the poor pics, camera phone)





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  #2  
Old 09-01-2006, 07:05 PM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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nevermind... there is no chance it fits... ive already started cuttng, and there is simply no where near enough room for it...not with a bigblock anways..

from the Radiator to the tip of the water pump is only 2 3/4" apart... there's no room... oh well..

im gonna have to use one without a shroud.

JOe
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2006, 07:14 PM
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dwc43 dwc43 is offline
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Biggrin

If that thing is off a 4 or 6 cyl. it wont pull enough air for your engine anyways. And yes, you can rum a fan with a shroud. It's made by Spal. Same fans used on NASCAR cup cars and otehrs. 2450 cfm 15.5" fan. That's all you need. Your fan is not really your problem anyway.
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2006, 07:28 PM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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then i dont know what my problem is..

Waterpump, Radiator, Hoses, Hi flow 160* T-stat, engine, fan, shroud, stock size pulley's, cap (Tried 16/18/22lb cap today)... everything is new so i dont know what im gonna do next then..

BTW- jeep forums have test this setup at 2300cfm flow... thats pretty competitive to all the other fans out there...

maybe keep the mechanical fan and put a small 10" pusher in the corner somewhere trying to help with idle temps getting too high....

im kinda lost as to where to go to next... the spal fan i guess... just running low on funds and think im gonna have to park it for a while..

JOe
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  #5  
Old 09-01-2006, 07:39 PM
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Biggrin

I would not use a pusher cause it bolcks the rad. I have seen them actually cause some over heat problems in cars with smaller grill areas before.

The Spal is a great fan. Sold a bunch of them a while back. An aluminum rad transferes heat better than a stock rad does too.

Are you sure your carb is jetted right? That will make a lot of difference and with more timing you may need to go a littler richer to solve this problem with your higher timing setting.

You may try the 7 blade fan with the clutch like the ones used on the Hemis and the trucks. I have one on my 4x4 with the HD cooling package stock from the factory. Makes a lot of noise, but it wont ever overheat.
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2006, 08:21 PM
mhenesian mhenesian is offline
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Hi Kingofthehill,

I've had similar overheat problems on my 440 powered Roadrunner with the auto tranny and 11" Hemi converter, usually when I've also tried to "push" the ignition timing. Iv'e tried shrouds, better fans, huge tranny cooler, etc.. nothing really helped. Particularly at 70+ mph on the way to the track on a hot Wednesday afternoon.

Also as I said earlier, be cautious with the inital timing, since it's real easy to get too much total timing at >3000 rpm, particulary with a stock type MOPAR distributor where you can't easily change or adjust the advance mechanism (except by brazing or welding). The heavy spring (if your distributor still has one) doesn't let the distributor get to full advance until way past where your timing light is working accurately. Don't trust it.

Your problem is probably a partially plugged radiator ! With the engine heated up good, thermostat fully open, bring the motor up to ~3000 rpm and observe the lower radiator hose. Wear safety glasses. I bet that it's starting to collapse - which cuts off the water flow and causes more overheating. Back down to idle and the hose will expand out to its normal shape. At speed, the B/RB water pump is trying to "pull" water out of the bottom of the radiator, thru the block and heads, and "pump" it out the top. With restrictions in the radiator (like chunks of rust), you just don't have enough flow capability. The B/RB pump is actually too efficient.

Get the radiator boiled out and "rodded" or re-cored at a professional shop and your problems will be solved ! The stock 5 or 7 blade fan and clutch are just fine. The radiator shroud adds a little bit of reserve cooling capability. Looks like you already have a good one, so you're all set.

Mark H.

(Also - everyone, have a great Labor Day. And good luck if you're racing !)
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2006, 08:29 PM
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Dude, I'm new to the site, so don't know the history of the problem with your car. However, the little bit I have read indicates you have an overheating problem, correct?? I'll apologize now in case someone else has asked this, but are you running a 50/50 mix of distilled water and anit-freeze??
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuzz
Dude, I'm new to the site, so don't know the history of the problem with your car. However, the little bit I have read indicates you have an overheating problem, correct?? I'll apologize now in case someone else has asked this, but are you running a 50/50 mix of distilled water and anit-freeze??
It's on another thread here as well. It does not get hot till he increases the inital timing. MY bet is, since his cooling system is up to par it has too much total advance and it's a little on the lean side on top end. Cause it runs normal temps with less initial timing. That's about the position King is in there Chuzz. Got your e maill too. Will look them over later when I get a chance.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:16 PM
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dw, how many times are we going to have to tell you that it is "timing", not timming. Wait till TK sees this thread. He will open a can of you-know-what on you.
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  #10  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:18 PM
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Dick, don't be a dick now. And TK is so low on the list he aint even a thought yet.
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  #11  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingofthehill
then i dont know what my problem is..
cap (Tried 16/18/22lb cap today)...

JOe
All a high pressure cap is going to do is delay boiling over. It will not bring your temp down.

Any chance you have a leaking head gasket?
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
Dick, don't be a dick now. And TK is so low on the list he aint even a thought yet.
My apologies. It was just poor "TIMMING" on my part!!!
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  #13  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:25 PM
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dwc43 dwc43 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick
My apologies. It was just poor "TIMMING" on my part!!!
I accept your apology. And yes it were poor timin'.
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2006, 12:01 AM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhenesian
Hi Kingofthehill,

I've had similar overheat problems on my 440 powered Roadrunner with the auto tranny and 11" Hemi converter, usually when I've also tried to "push" the ignition timing. Iv'e tried shrouds, better fans, huge tranny cooler, etc.. nothing really helped. Particularly at 70+ mph on the way to the track on a hot Wednesday afternoon.

Also as I said earlier, be cautious with the inital timing, since it's real easy to get too much total timing at >3000 rpm, particulary with a stock type MOPAR distributor where you can't easily change or adjust the advance mechanism (except by brazing or welding). The heavy spring (if your distributor still has one) doesn't let the distributor get to full advance until way past where your timing light is working accurately. Don't trust it.

Your problem is probably a partially plugged radiator ! With the engine heated up good, thermostat fully open, bring the motor up to ~3000 rpm and observe the lower radiator hose. Wear safety glasses. I bet that it's starting to collapse - which cuts off the water flow and causes more overheating. Back down to idle and the hose will expand out to its normal shape. At speed, the B/RB water pump is trying to "pull" water out of the bottom of the radiator, thru the block and heads, and "pump" it out the top. With restrictions in the radiator (like chunks of rust), you just don't have enough flow capability. The B/RB pump is actually too efficient.

Get the radiator boiled out and "rodded" or re-cored at a professional shop and your problems will be solved ! The stock 5 or 7 blade fan and clutch are just fine. The radiator shroud adds a little bit of reserve cooling capability. Looks like you already have a good one, so you're all set.

Mark H.

(Also - everyone, have a great Labor Day. And good luck if you're racing !)
Radiator is new
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  #15  
Old 09-02-2006, 12:46 AM
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hmmm, Im lost then. geez, what else could it be?
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