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  #1  
Old 09-04-2006, 12:24 AM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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Default Enhh.. Getting Slightly better... still hotter than i like

By keeping my timing where i want it, im fighting the heating problem..

the entire cooling system is new.. the engine is new... everything is NEW... and still not as cool as it should be..

by playing with a few t-stats, hollowing some out, pulley size changes (ended back up at stock )

so in 85-90* heat driving temp was holding steady at 175-180... sitting at a red light it quickly climbs to 195-200 and at a double red light it goes to 200-205..

now letting it sit at idle for about 30 minutes it can HOLD 212ish... it doesnt go up from there..

ive tried 3 different guages and all were identical in results.. right now its got a hollowed out 160* t-stat... i also tried 3 different fans.. a flex a lite 10,000rpm (best), a permacool flex fan (WORST), and a Flex a lite Race fan (OK).

In front of the radiator is a Flex-a-lite 7-1/2'' x 12'' x 3/4'' transmission cooler.

im a 30% coolant, Distilled water, and Water Wetter, Mancini Racing high volume aluminum water pump and aluminum housing .

By looking at that data, it looks to me like my cooling problem is that its not flowing enough air.... because it seems somewhat sufficent at Cruising...

any advice would be great.... im running low on car funds so hopefully advice saves me from buying junk i dont need...

Thanks

JOe


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  #2  
Old 09-04-2006, 12:29 AM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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BTW- although you seel no Oil pressure on the dash, its just been disconnected so i could hook up the mechanical guage to be sure..

JOe
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2006, 01:08 AM
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Biggrin

Move the tranny cooler before you do anything else. Just put it anywhere out of the way just for a test, it wont kill the tranny for a test. See if it runs any cooler without the tranny cooler blocking the rad. If it works, mount that thing somewhere else. You can always add a fan to the tranny cooler. Matter of fact TCI makes a cooler with a built in fan that turns on with a temp sensor.
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2006, 12:23 AM
Shaun Shaun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwc43
Move the tranny cooler before you do anything else. Just put it anywhere out of the way just for a test, it wont kill the tranny for a test. See if it runs any cooler without the tranny cooler blocking the rad. If it works, mount that thing somewhere else. You can always add a fan to the tranny cooler. Matter of fact TCI makes a cooler with a built in fan that turns on with a temp sensor.
Good advice DW. I have my tranny cooler on the bottom right hand corner(the bottom is cooler),so the air being sucked and forced into the fins,cools the hot side of the rad. Mine also likes to run a tad warm. I have been following to see possibilities.
I think you are fine at 212*. That's not bad at all. However,if it goes past that,you may need to try something else.
Do you have all the open area in front of the rad. channeling the air to it? Is there any open areas that could be filled in to get ALL the air in? For instance,the top of the radiator and the grill assembly-is there any gaps? And the sides?
Try to create an air grabber for you radiator.
Shaun
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2006, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun
Good advice DW. Do you have all the open area in front of the rad. channeling the air to it? Shaun
That was my reasoning in moving the tranny cooler. He does not have a lot of open frontal area to his rad in that body of car. If it is bocking fresh air to the rad, well, you know.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2006, 02:25 AM
HNB racing HNB racing is offline
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flex-a-lite black magic electric fan

john
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2006, 08:24 AM
BJSracing BJSracing is offline
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How do you have your fan wired in. Is it set up on a relay or direct wired? That can make a difference also. If it is direct wired to a switch it may not be pulling as much as it is capable of. You may need to wire it through a relay to get everything out of the fan.
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2006, 09:37 AM
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Kings running an engine mounted fan so electrics is not a problem right now.
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2006, 10:49 AM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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thanks dwc... yeah, currently its a mechanical fan... flex fan

JOe
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  #10  
Old 09-05-2006, 11:08 AM
turbododge turbododge is offline
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If you are heating up at idle and not at driving speed, you almost surely have an idle airflow issue. Very unlikely to be water flow or other issue.

I have found flex fans to be very poor air movers, the clutch fans do much better job. The MP setup with 5 blade fan works well for me. I didn't gain anything going to a 7 blade except more noise (the 5 blade has staggered blades and higher pitch than the 7).

You need to have a shroud if you don't have one. I have found you are better off to be almost all the way out of the shroud with the fan, not half way in as you hear very often. You can test if you are right be feeling for reverse airflow out the front of the radiator.

The most effective way to improve idle airflow is to go the AC ratio pulleys (1.3 engine speed on pump and fan) and an AC water pump (small 6 blade impeller). I have seen this setup cure more cooling problems than any other. Griffin has now even started recommending 1.3 ratio on all installations. They say changes in fuel and more traffic have made it more difficult to keep the old beasts cool.
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  #11  
Old 09-05-2006, 09:03 PM
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A fan shroud in the right position will be a huge help. There are electirc fans out there complete with shrouds in the right place for maximum cooling.
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2006, 09:12 PM
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One more thing, I had the identical problem that you describe. Changed out several fans. No help. Tried everything I could think of. Changed timing around. Even tried water wetter. Finally went to a Cooling Components brand electric fan with shroud. Works great. No more overheating at stoplights.
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2006, 09:44 PM
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Kingofthehill Kingofthehill is offline
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Coupe32- do you know how deep that is?

i only have 2 3/4" between the Radiator and the water pump... and the Radiator is as far forward as possible..

If i knew for sure it would fit, i would order something... but im not positive and can't throw money around at a chance..

i think im gonna have to go for like dual 10" fans or something that are offset so the pump wont hit them... or something like that..

JOe
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2006, 10:12 PM
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The Spal fan with 2450 cfm should fit in that space.
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  #15  
Old 09-06-2006, 05:24 PM
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Yep. your right. I think my fan is 4 inches or so at the motor. The main thing is a good shroud around it so it pulls the air through the entire radiator. I know they make probably make narrower high cfm fans.
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  #16  
Old 09-08-2006, 11:01 AM
70Ted 70Ted is offline
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sounds normal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingofthehill
By keeping my timing where i want it, im fighting the heating problem..

the entire cooling system is new.. the engine is new... everything is NEW... and still not as cool as it should be..

by playing with a few t-stats, hollowing some out, pulley size changes (ended back up at stock )

so in 85-90* heat driving temp was holding steady at 175-180... sitting at a red light it quickly climbs to 195-200 and at a double red light it goes to 200-205..

now letting it sit at idle for about 30 minutes it can HOLD 212ish... it doesnt go up from there..

ive tried 3 different guages and all were identical in results.. right now its got a hollowed out 160* t-stat... i also tried 3 different fans.. a flex a lite 10,000rpm (best), a permacool flex fan (WORST), and a Flex a lite Race fan (OK).

In front of the radiator is a Flex-a-lite 7-1/2'' x 12'' x 3/4'' transmission cooler.

im a 30% coolant, Distilled water, and Water Wetter, Mancini Racing high volume aluminum water pump and aluminum housing .

By looking at that data, it looks to me like my cooling problem is that its not flowing enough air.... because it seems somewhat sufficent at Cruising...

any advice would be great.... im running low on car funds so hopefully advice saves me from buying junk i dont need...

Thanks

JOe


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  #17  
Old 09-09-2006, 04:56 AM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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Lets see you are at 210* f, if you have 50\50 antifreeze water coolant mix with a 16lbs pressure cap that should get you to about 250* boiling point. No reason not to run the 195* thermostat to keep that temperature at a constant level. The Mopar 5 blade assymetrical fan was tested against the electric, and flexible types and provided 15 more HP with superior cooling, You can buy the kit from Mopar or find a R-body car at the yards with A\C for about $15. The new Mopar permanent antifreeze GO-5 and a bottle of red line water wetter is good for 5 years. For cooling purposes a racing pump could have small impellers to reduce drag because they are only needed for a short time the A\C pumps are much more efficient for a street machine. A fan shroud with the fan blades half in half out is an aid to cooling. An overflow tank snould be used not a catch can unless it has a siphon tube. Check the efficiency of the fan the next time the temp goes up , put the car in neutral and rev the engine if the temp is reduced it indicates the fan is working and other ares are the concern.
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2006, 12:25 AM
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did you check your fuel presure ?low fuel presure will make it run hot and won't show up on your plugs .more fuel presure will kool a engine as much as 30 deg.or more depending on how bad it is.
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