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#1
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Cam help
Hey guys, I am building a 416 stroker for my duster, already have the bottom end put together, Eagle forged crank and H beam rods, Ross Pistons, Edelbrock performer rpm heads, port and bowl blend, edelbrock rpm air gap intake. Compression is around 10.3- 10.5 and bolted up to a 727 and 3.91 gears, with converter to be named later. Now its time for the ever important cam choice, and I was wondering who some of you suggest to deal with when it comes to having a cam ground? This is a street only car, and I need to decide on hydraulic, or solid, and whether not to go with a roller, as budget allows. I've spoke with Hughes on other topics, but honestly I felt like he kind of treated me like an idiot, and seems to be very opinionated, so I wondered who else out there is good with mopars.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks |
#2
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Good things have been said about Racer Brown.
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#3
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I think
Comp has so many combos of duration and lift, that they are hard to beat. They enjoy a good reputation, too. I'm building a 408 and have a split duration Comp with 286/291 @0.050 and 507/510 lift. Members of this site recommended split duration, so that's why I did that. Seems small Mopars like that for better all around flow.I'm using Mopar R/T heads, ported.
Ron |
#4
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Quote:
I myself would go with a Comp cam Extreme series cam, HI lift version with the ported heads. |
#5
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Depends on what you REALLY want the car to do, all street or an occasional trip to the local track?hydro's are preaty much matenance free while with a solid you will have your periodic adjustments that you have to make.My car has a solid but i don't mind setting the lash every 500 miles or so.
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#6
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If it's in the budget, the comp hydraulic roller retro-fit cams may be a nice choice. I think my #3 exhaust cam lobe is going flat on my Hughes cam, and if it does, I may swap to a roller. The off the shelf engine oils are getting pretty bad for us with flat tappet cams.
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#7
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cam help
Thanks for the advice. I think the decision I really have to make is hydraulic roller or solid roller. This car will hardly, if ever, see track time. I'm more interested in having fun on the street. I would figure the hydraulic roller would be more "street friendly" than the solid roller, but not sure. Is there a power advantage in going with one over the other for my application, or much of a difference in cost? My power range will be topping out around 6500RPM, as I'm interested in keeping the torque for the street.
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#8
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Think you really mean roller tappets with a cam to match. A roller cam is a different animal that requires different parts. If this is a production block Comp Cams is offering a set of roller tappets with matching cam that appers to be the ticket for the engine. I have basically the same engine planned as yours and recommend a cam with approximately 500 lift with split duration in the 230 range for best all around performance. Straight Line performance will make recommendation and grind a cam to your specifiations for a few dollars more.
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#9
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I have a Comp hydraulic flat tappet XE275HL in my 415. It's 231/237 @.050 .525 lift. The engine is in a Challenger and has Indy/Edelbrock heads and a 6 pack on it. It is a beast with this engine (was a beast. See above post). It pulls very hard up to 6000. I know it would beat my 440 GTX if the rear tires could hook up. The engine idles good at 800 rpm in gear. It sounds very healthy and somewhat lopey at idle. I would have gone hydraulic roller if I had a little more money.
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#10
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I really like Cranes 699631 (230/238 .528/.548 on 110LSA). In a 71 Demon with an edelbrock headed 408 it would run mid-low 11s, with a 2800 converter and 3.55s....
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