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View Full Version : 4 link Vs Ladder bars


The_Dakota_Kid
10-15-2006, 08:45 PM
Looking into going one way or the other, I know the 4 link is the Hot ticket, but the ladder bars are more installation and tuner friendly....Just wondering if Ladder bar with coil overs will fill the bill. It will be going into a 87 Dakota stroker motor running well into the 9's..

DartGT66
10-16-2006, 05:14 AM
Ladder bars should work.

RAM1500
10-16-2006, 09:49 AM
The ladder bars will work just fine.

One little piece of advice i'll give you putting either one in is measure 5 or 6 times and weld once.

BJSracing
10-16-2006, 10:10 AM
I do beleive that a ladder bar set up would work great for you. And like RAM said measure 5 or 6 times and just when you think you have it all right try it once more. Good luck with it and let us know how it comes out.

Jason

Kevin Garceau
10-16-2006, 01:55 PM
I dont know if the ladder bar will work or not, no body will. But you will get 3 adjustments to your I.C so its alot of investment in time and money to NOT know if it will work or not. With a 4 link you can adjust it wherever you need. Its nt that much more money or difficult to install.

With a truck you got a longer wheelbase than a car, and will need the IC further out. If you plan on running that fast I think it would be ridiculous to put in a ladder bar. Too many good things to not run a four link, adjustability, resale value, etc.....do it right the first time.

Is this going to be a race vehicle or street vehicle, if its something to bomb around on the street and not worried about dead hook and consistency then lb will be fine.

RAM1500
10-16-2006, 05:51 PM
If ladder bars work for a old neighbor of mine on a 3200 lb car running 9.0's 1/4 mile on a 10.5 slick, theres no reason they shouldnt work on Dakota Kids truck. He never has trouble getting over 1000 hp to hook up, hell if anything the only problem he's had is having the car hook TOO hard.

BJSracing
10-16-2006, 06:19 PM
My dad can manage to take a 3200# car and run a 9.50 at 140mph with ladder bars and stock front suspension I don't see any reason that it would work for you. With the technology in ladder bars you can almost get the same level of adjustment as a 4 link any how. The ladder bar is easier to initially set up and much easier to adjust later down the road. If you were going to try and run in the low 9's or in the 8's I could understand possibly going to a 4 link. And even still alot of your full bodied super comp cars are running ladder bars.

Kevin Garceau
10-16-2006, 07:19 PM
Hell its not hard to run fast, I ran low nines with ladder bars too...but doesnt mean it wouldnt be better with a four link.

Almost same adjustment? 3 compared to several hundred? not quite the same to me...

if you can only run low 9s with 1000 hp there is issues....yes and one of the issues with a ladder bar is too big of wheel stands, that was my issue, I couldnt get the IC out far enough and low enough to tame it down. When you waste energy going up, your not going forward.

So to Ram1500 and BJS racing have you had both? Have you adjusted both or are you going by what your neighbors, or anyone else has? I have had both, have both right now. If you want the most consistent best hook, for every combo go with a 4 link. There is a reason 99percent of new cars are built with a four link. They flat work better, yes a LB may be good enough. But at this stage in the game why settle for "good enough"

gsmopar
10-17-2006, 12:46 AM
This article helped me decide:

http://www.cachassisworks.com/TechTips/TechTip-001_WEB.pdf

BJSracing
10-17-2006, 10:23 AM
Yes I have read that article before. It is all true. And Kevin I am not here to argue with anyone. As the article said if you have the time to set one up and learn geometry all over again and figure out the in's and out's of the 4 link then yes it is a better set up. But, a great majority of the time a more user friendly set up is what is needed or desired. Both systems will get done what needs to be done and work for the intended application mentioned above.

RAM1500
10-17-2006, 11:45 AM
Of course i've had experience with ladder bars Kevin, how do you think i could say i thought they'd work if i hadnt? Never have messed with a 4-link though. I could argue with you about this but that aint what Dakota Kid had in mind when he started this thread.

RAM1500
10-17-2006, 11:58 AM
Those 9's my neighbor ran was on the motor only. with the 2 stages of nitrous hes got on it when he runs the Pro Outlaw 10.5 class he does sometimes he can easily run 7.90's.

1973Swinger
10-17-2006, 12:46 PM
I dont think you guys get it, I agree with Kevin, a 4 link is not much more money, and if you are going to be hacking as much as you will have to to get ladder bars under there, why not just put the 4 link in and be done with it instead of spending the time to put ladder bars in and find out you dont have enough adjustment and have to install a 4 link anyways. Big waste of time and money IMO. Shoot, if you know what you are doing, you can run 9's on leaf springs, but if you want to put the best setup in there, and you are going to spend the time and cash on it, just put the best possible one you can get the first time and never worry about changing it down the road. You guys know how it goes, you set your car up to do one thing, and then you want to go faster in a few years, so you end up redoing all that work again. Like I said, waste of time and cash IMO. I say go with the 4 link and call it a day, then talk to someone that already runs one and see if you cant get them to help you out with initial setup, you know, like tips and stuff. :thumbsup:

BJSracing
10-17-2006, 01:41 PM
Like the article was implying. It doesn't matter how much adjustment you have if you don't take the time to learn how to adjust it. Yes the 4 link would be better if you are willing to do what it takes to set it up and adjust it to your specific needs. Even with a ladder bars set up it is very rare that it is set exactly how you want/need it right from the git go.

Kevin Garceau
10-17-2006, 01:50 PM
You can get the 4 link software for very cheap. If you think you need it.

People are afraid of fourlinks, they dont like change and are afraid of all the adjustments. Its not that big of a deal. Most peoples four links are very similar to others as for set up. Ask around, get a book or two, Dave Morgans Door slammer book should be read, RJ race cars makes a book too....... they will tell you how to scale the car, find the center of gravity, learn this or that and tell you where to set it up and how to adjust from there...

I say do it right the first time, when you change power later on you will be glad. My firebird with ladder bars went 1.2 sixtys.... but too big of wheelies and inconsistent hook. My daytona with LB couldnt hook with my low hp motor in it, my brother put a big motor in it went 9.14 and it hooks fine now, enough power to get it on the rear wheels.... my new daytona is about 400 hp, 14 inch tires and a 4 link, it dead hooks in gravel....exactly the way I want it.

The_Dakota_Kid
10-17-2006, 10:28 PM
How much would a nut and bolt 4 link conversion be now? Is comp engineering 4 link parts quality? What brand of Coil over shocks do you reccomend, How is there shocks?

Kevin Garceau
10-17-2006, 11:28 PM
in that set up any quality four link will be fine from any known source. I have had several different shocks...

what exactly are your plans for this truck?

GarceauRacing
10-17-2006, 11:59 PM
4-link all the way, a lot more tuning options, and a whole lot more re-sale value to the project. I never had a 4 link until this year brand new car, did some reading, adjusted the bars, let her rip and went 9.61 @ 136, w/ 1.32 60ft, in a 3100 lb car ft braking. I used a chassis Engineering kit, and was very nice. I'm thinking of building a chromoly chassis, Neon or Daytona next year, and will probably fab up my own four link bars using Quarter max rod ends and brackets.
Curtis

DartGT66
10-18-2006, 02:44 AM
Leaf springs for lazy people; no need to adjust.

The_Dakota_Kid
10-18-2006, 11:27 AM
I think the truck has some 9.70's in it now, but a set of domes, and a Indy tunnel ram could spell a extra 75-100 horses somtime in the future. So lets say mid too low 9's is my goal. Just looking to hook the extra power with no so optimal weight ratio of pickup trucks.

DartGT66
10-18-2006, 02:55 PM
If you are willing to learn, and spending time testing and tuning, go four link. We converted our car last winter, but because of lack of power and big weight, haven't done any tuning yet. I had non knowledge about four links before this, but read the two nooks mentioned before and started putting it together. It worked out pretty fine considering I ordered the shocks & springs "blind" without any idea of the needed lengths and strengths. Alston I've heard, also has got a good book that concentrates more on the building process. All we had was basic tools, no fancy angle gauges etc. The car goes very straight and so far has had no traction problems at all. On these pages there is some photos of the build up. The parts came from quartermax, rjracecars. http://kuvablogi.com/blog/745/1/

gsmopar
10-18-2006, 03:36 PM
If you are willing to learn, and spending time testing and tuning, go four link. We converted our car last winter, but because of lack of power and big weight, haven't done any tuning yet. I had non knowledge about four links before this, but read the two nooks mentioned before and started putting it together. It worked out pretty fine considering I ordered the shocks & springs "blind" without any idea of the needed lengths and strengths. Alston I've heard, also has got a good book that concentrates more on the building process. All we had was basic tools, no fancy angle gauges etc. The car goes very straight and so far has had no traction problems at all. On these pages there is some photos of the build up. The parts came from quartermax, rjracecars. http://kuvablogi.com/blog/745/1/


I think this same thread is on Moparts???

I've been using the pictures of your build up as a reference on my Balk-Half project. I don't want to Hi-Jack the thread, but the scariest part for me is widening the wheel well opening. Do you have any tips, pics, or suggestions? I've been tempted to go with a smaller tire and avoid the whole situation, but that kind of defeats the purpose of doing a back half in the first place!!!!!

Thanks,

Greg

BJSracing
10-18-2006, 03:49 PM
How big of a tire are you trying to put on the car.

Kevin Garceau
10-18-2006, 03:52 PM
you will be fine with the fourlink, its simple to adjust and set up. No more complicated than a carb....

I hope you run as fast as you think, its not easy...my injected bb 440 ran 9.8 in a daytona...my bro "garceau racing" on here put his big motor in the same car and ran 9.1s thats 500 inches indy headed alky injected motor...

but you cant go wrong with the correct parts...truck will work better, resale will be much better. Its pretty simple.

gsmopar
10-18-2006, 10:31 PM
How big of a tire are you trying to put on the car.

I think I can put a 31 in it with out cutting the quarter panel. I'd like to go bigger (33's), but am just a little nervous about stretching the opening.

Shaun
10-18-2006, 10:44 PM
Here's my two cents- With a Four-link setup,you will have a whole bunch of adjustments that won't work and a few(about 4) that will. And let me tell you,it takes a lot of time(and money, to figure out which ones work).Ladder Bars will give you a few adjustments(I suggest Chris Alston's over Competition-call them and ask for Mike-you won't be disappointed) and a couple that will work and good.
The drawback of Ladder Bars are that they aren't as streetable as four-links are. But on the track,dude,you will be adjusting your four links for everything the track can spit out. Hard,soft,slick,grabby,a lot of rubber..... how much do you want to adjust between rounds?
Shaun

Kevin Garceau
10-18-2006, 10:54 PM
who adjusts their four links in between rounds?

Listen to folks that have had both, have both now, have run both..... they all say 4 links.

YOu only need to adjust when you make a major adjustment. It takes a few minutes to plot out the IC and get it adjusted. Its not rocket science.

What if NONE of the 3 positions you get with a LB are correct?

Kevin Garceau
10-18-2006, 11:11 PM
you really need to ask this question on a bracket race website....not a whole lot of racers here compared to other sites. Will give you a broader range of options/answers/opinions.....

GarceauRacing
10-19-2006, 12:56 AM
The problem w/ most the Ladder bar kits you get nowadays is the short bars 32" is the new industry standard, think about it, limited to a 32" instant center, that straight up sucks and your stuck with it, Who benifits from these bars? short wheel base Mustang racers, who have to run stock floorpans in there Pro street cars and have no other choice but a Ladderbar.
Curtis

The_Dakota_Kid
10-19-2006, 01:44 AM
4 Link it is! But it wont be a Go untill later this winter, will it go that Fast??? I can slap on a 300 Big Shot and have a hell oif time tring......Besides this truck will find its way in the classifieds in the next few years, Ill be upgrading to a Daytona/Conquest door slammer. So any mods that might help now, and help the resale value is a plus......

Kevin Garceau
10-19-2006, 02:11 AM
4 link will definatly help resale...I buy and sell alot of race cars, and wont even look at a ladder bar car, unless its given to me.....

hell even my dragster had a four link in it

Shaun
10-19-2006, 02:23 AM
who adjusts their four links in between rounds?

Listen to folks that have had both, have both now, have run both..... they all say 4 links.

YOu only need to adjust when you make a major adjustment. It takes a few minutes to plot out the IC and get it adjusted. Its not rocket science.

What if NONE of the 3 positions you get with a LB are correct?

Who? Or,do you mean when? If you had them adjusted for a cool day and it's a hot day,do you lose? You can't qualify? Because you missed it by one hole?
My buddy ran ladder bars on his 11 second car,now he has 4 link(same brand) on his 572 8.90 car. He wants to go back to Ladder bars,because of the inconsistency. Why do you see so many going back to Ladder Bars? 4 Links are better,no question(did I say that?),but for consistent adjustability,get Ladder Bars.

Kevin Garceau
10-19-2006, 02:26 AM
iif you have to adjust your IC day in and day out..you never had it right to begin with.... please let me come down where you guys race, the first car I see up between rounds getting bars moved is the first one I chase down in the staging lanes.....

hot, cool, what ever day...you set the car up for the most hook possible, when it hooks it hooks...doesnt matter the track temp, Pro stocks dont adjust their 4 links between runs or even weekends......

Im done, no point in arguing, and I have NEVER known anyone to want to go back to LB unless they were completely lost and needed help but maybe too afraid to ask.

Shaun
10-19-2006, 02:48 AM
Ok,sure. See ya there.:roll:

RAM1500
10-19-2006, 12:03 PM
iif you have to adjust your IC day in and day out..you never had it right to begin with.... please let me come down where you guys race, the first car I see up between rounds getting bars moved is the first one I chase down in the staging lanes.


It would be funny as hell if he put your ass on the trailer after you did that Kevin.

The_Dakota_Kid
10-19-2006, 01:00 PM
Let me asl this.
How often does things get replaced on the 4 link setup? Is breakage ever a concern? Say the rod joints etc? Bend of upper lower bars, and being replaced? Is there any wear items on this?

Kevin Garceau
10-19-2006, 01:24 PM
it would be pretty tough to bend a bar..but if the vehicle is seeing street time anything is possible.

all heim joints should be inspected regularly as they do fail, and can... I check mine a couple times a year and have to change every couple years, thats with alot of runs......

for normal racing you shouldnt ever have to replace anything but the ends, and shocks from time to time which would be every few years on a good set....

Ram I have been beaten before its not that difficult, cut a light and run a better number than me anyone goes home...but if people are bracket racing and changing their IC between rounds....I like my chances

Im in Wisconsin...have travelled alot farther than Cali to race before...ya just never know when I will show up :)

BJSracing
10-19-2006, 01:36 PM
There is always wear on parts. The biggest factors are how much power are you putting out and how often are you using it. The parts breakage would be no more than with a ladder bar set up. I have always at the end of the year when putting the car away for it 3 or 4 month nap pulled every thing out and checked rod ends and bars. Just what I've done. To each his own.

Shaun
10-19-2006, 09:38 PM
I agree with the last two posts-just keep an eye on 'em. Pull the heim(rod ends)joints off and look for excessive wear and cracks whenever you are down.
If you plan to drive it on the street,watch driveways,speed bumps and any uneven ground where your vehicle will want to twist(ladder bars and 4-links don't give and they will bend,welds may break,cracks start...).
Kevin, there are a couple things that I don't think you are comprehending. One- a 4-link is not a bolt in and hook good set-up(especially for someone not familiar with them). It takes time to figure out which combinations work,unless you have experienced help. Two-unless you are running the same track,during the same weather conditions,you will benefit by adjusting them(and yeah,between rounds when you recognize you need to get down a little more,etc..). How can you guess what the track conditions will be exactly? Do you have a crystal ball?
And third,but most important-why would anyone want so many adjustments,if they don't use them ,or need them? I included this info for you all that don't know .
Ladder Bar Length
Anyone who tells you that short-wheelbase cars need 30-inch ladder bars, intermediate
cars use 32 inches and long-wheelbase cars
use 36 inches is just showing you he doesn’t
understand the big picture. What makes a
ladder bar work is dependent on where the front mount is in relation to the car’s center of gravity. A 32-inch ladder bar can be adjusted
to have the same intersect point as a 36-inch bar in relation to the car’s center of gravity.
The reason everyone uses 32-inch ladder bars
is a space consideration. Bars shorter than
32 inches tend to rotate the pinion angle
excessively, plus they require a front mount
that is very close to the ground.
On a long-wheelbase vehicle (like a truck), the 36-inch ladder bar may be the best choice. When under-body clearance is not a factor, the longer bar can transfer weight more easily.
4-LINKS
A 4-link is definitely superior to ladder bars. However, a 4-link is only superior in application if you are willing to invest the time it takes to sort it out. A ladder bar has two or three adjustment holes that actually work; a 4-link might have 50! Actually, the 4-link doesn’t have 50 places that are better; it has perhaps three that are better, a couple that are the same, and a whole bunch that are worse. You just have a lot more possible intersect points.
A tremendous amount of engineering goes into a properly designed 4-link. There are 4-links
on the market that won’t gain you anything, because the spread on the holes and/or the brackets themselves are improperly located. Consequently, there are lots of adjustments
that you can’t even get to.
LADDER BARS vs. 4-LINK
A 4-link is like anything else that’s infinitely adjustable: If you’re not going to spend the time it takes to get it adjusted correctly, you’re better off with a part that doesn’t adjust. If you want to buy something that’s inexpensive; that doesn’t take a lot of real care and extra energy to install; and that basically works right out
of the box, then ladder bars are for you. If
you want your car to go as fast as possible,
and you’re willing to invest whatever energy it takes, choose a 4-link.
Neither type of suspension is perfectly
suited to all-around highway operation. To be 100-percent streetable, a rear suspension must allow the rearend to “roll” independent of the body. This movement is necessary to smoothly transverse potholes, speed bumps, curbs and other irregularities in the road. Chassisworks now offers ladder bars and 4-links with large, urethane-bushed rod ends which greatly increase the amount of rearend roll available
— a real plus for Pro Street applications. Additionally, these urethane bushings will absorb some of the

Kevin Garceau
10-19-2006, 11:52 PM
im still confused how you say that a LB will be bolt in and be correct?

Shaun
10-20-2006, 12:26 AM
I didn't say such a thing. Nor did Chris Alston's tech guy(that's where the articles came from).
What they did say,is that ladder bars will work almost,right out of the box. You see,if installed correctly,you will have only one,maybe(but not likely)two holes that you will benefit from,besides the obvious(pre-loading the passenger side). Then all that's left is up and down(if you have coil-over shocks),side to side(that's to be kept square) and the pinion angle. It is more complicated to the inexperienced,than it reads.
But in comparison,the 4-link,which is by far superior,takes much more time and knowledge.

Kevin Garceau
10-20-2006, 12:57 AM
Here's my two cents- With a Four-link setup,you will have a whole bunch of adjustments that won't work and a few(about 4) that will. And let me tell you,it takes a lot of time(and money, to figure out which ones work).Ladder Bars will give you a few adjustments(I suggest Chris Alston's over Competition-call them and ask for Mike-you won't be disappointed) and a couple that will work and good.
The drawback of Ladder Bars are that they aren't as streetable as four-links are. But on the track,dude,you will be adjusting your four links for everything the track can spit out. Hard,soft,slick,grabby,a lot of rubber..... how much do you want to adjust between rounds?
Shaun

got it from that right there....there is no way to know if the 3 adjustments will work "good" or not. They may be all you have and are forced to "make" them work.....


Two-unless you are running the same track,during the same weather conditions,you will benefit by adjusting them(and yeah,between rounds when you recognize you need to get down a little more,etc..). How can you guess what the track conditions will be exactly?

I expect a track to be prepped to a certain degree each time I show up. I set my cars up for optimum hook. It may leave a few hundredths on the table because of the amount of bite I have into them. But I bracket race, not test and tune, so a few on the table is ok. If I spin in a round so be it, im more than likely done anyways. So why change the set up? Tracks come and go, they change throughout the day but changing your bars throughout a bracket race is absolutely ridiculous. You will be chaning everything how can you predict what the ET will be? You cant predict it any better than prediciting the track....hence the reason I carry a few in my pocket. Sometimes up to a tenth....if the track is THAT bad and spins that bad Im assuming both lanes will suck....if I feel I need to get to the stripe I rip the Nitrous a few times.

I have bracket raced my entire life, was a paid driver for an entire season when I was 19. I know how to get down a track, I have NEVER seen a serious bracket racer change any set ups mid day in the 4 link. I have been to MANY big dollar events, from Wisconsin to Alabama, and NOBODY has every changed their four link set ups in between rounds. I have been interviewed and in IHRA Drag Review, even in Drag Race Action a few years ago. My brother on here "GarceauRacing" holds his own too, won NHRA bracket finals at 16, gots a wally and a gold card..... he says 4 link too.

Once its set, its set. You will want to change them with a major component change, really no other reason.

He has a truck he plans on doing major work too, putting a LB in there would be a wrong move in my opinion. You stated the 4 link is superior so why wouldnt someone want the best? So he spends a few more minutes in the garage or on his computer, or reading a book to have a better ride? Too many people skimp early on in a project for various reasons, almost all of them regret it later on.

Like I stated i have OWNED ladder bar cars, and 4 link cars. I have experiences with both, Im not saying what my brothers, my friends my dads, or anyone elses experiences are. If you want the best rear set up under that vehicle is a 4 link, as he already picked.

There are alot of good companies out there, anyone can get you a good set up. I like S&W because they are bracket racers their selves, good people.

Kevin Garceau
10-20-2006, 01:04 AM
Shaun from your sig I see you have LB car, Alstons too...which is the set up you are opting for. Did you build your car with that set up or buy it? I can see why your pushing so hard for the LB and Alston (good stuff, not knocking his quality)

LB and Alston is what you know and have worked with..... my bro has a 65 coronet too, heavy pig though, runs 9.6s footbraking

TK
10-20-2006, 01:32 AM
As far as street fun, on ladder bars, my duster, had ladder bars, and I broke welds, and tore them off the front of the subframe.

The little 72 Duster, will be a four link car when I start on it.
My 71 D200 has ladder bars, they work great in a 3/4 ton pickmup!

Shaun
10-20-2006, 01:34 AM
If I spin in a round so be it, im more than likely done anyways. So why change the set up? Tracks come and go, they change throughout the day but changing your bars throughout a bracket race is absolutely ridiculous. You will be chaning everything how can you predict what the ET will be? if I feel I need to get to the stripe I rip the Nitrous a few times.

I have bracket raced my entire life, was a paid driver for an entire season when I was 19. I know how to get down a track, I have NEVER seen a serious bracket racer change any set ups mid day in the 4 link. I have been to MANY big dollar events, from Wisconsin to Alabama, and NOBODY has every changed their four link set ups in between rounds. I have been interviewed and in IHRA Drag Review, even in Drag Race Action a few years ago. My brother on here "GarceauRacing" holds his own too, won NHRA bracket finals at 16, gots a wally and a gold card..... he says 4 link too.

Once its set, its set. You will want to change them with a major component change, really no other reason.

He has a truck he plans on doing major work too, putting a LB in there would be a wrong move in my opinion. You stated the 4 link is superior so why wouldnt someone want the best? So he spends a few more minutes in the garage or on his computer, or reading a book to have a better ride? Too many people skimp early on in a project for various reasons, almost all of them regret it later on.

Like I stated i have OWNED ladder bar cars, and 4 link cars. I have experiences with both, Im not saying what my brothers, my friends my dads, or anyone elses experiences are. If you want the best rear set up under that vehicle is a 4 link, as he already picked.

There are alot of good companies out there, anyone can get you a good set up. I like S&W because they are bracket racers their selves, good people.
Kevin,I never asked for your credentials. I go by what you post. And I was not pushing either,just explaining what I know.
Spinning,because you didn't raise it a hole,is no excuse.And saying that 4-links are set once and for all,is at best,a little off.
Adjustments are made,because they are beneficial,whether or not you have seen anyone do it.
Yeah,I run Chris Alston Ladder Bars with Coil Overs on my 65 Swepty. It was a 318 Poly truck,with a tapered axle 741.
I built a 440 and bought a TCI Comp Series Tranny for it(did all the work,besides the machine work-mocked it up,fabbed the mounts,cut out the original tranny X member,fabbed a new one,put in a 742 from an E-body,built it with MP axle bearings,3.91 ring and pinion,rebuilt the clutch sure grip,cut out the leaf springs and put in the Ladder Bars and had a drive shaft built and balanced...much more than that really,but you probably know anyway).
It runs a pretty consistent 12.30-39 spinning the tires. I haven't put a fuel cell in the back,or even moved the battery back yet. I may even have to add some weight to the back.
Right now I have been helping my buddy get his 572 62 Dart ready for E/T. He wants to run 8.90 and he will. He has a 4-link,narrowed Dana 60,we're getting-I am anyway-it all welded in and ready. B-1 heads....
Kevin,too often I see folks on this site who think their's is the only(and right) way. I haven't tried to contradict you(although I have) in a way that was demeaning you. Try to understand that everyone sees things that other's don't. There's more than one way to have the tech team make you wear a helmet,or put in a rollcage. It only costs money. How fast do you want to go?

DartGT66
10-20-2006, 06:53 AM
Ladder bars don't allow chassis sway, and therefore a lot of stress goes to the system in street use. Same thing with four links and a track locator. With wishbone or watts link, also one wheel can go up or down without affecting the other.

RAM1500
10-20-2006, 02:07 PM
Might as well give it up shaun, Kevins right about all this shit and we just dont have a clue what we're talking about. :rolleyes:

TK
10-21-2006, 09:54 PM
Well, at least you dont, I think Shaun might.............. ;)

Shaun
10-21-2006, 10:20 PM
Might as well give it up shaun, Kevins right about all this shit and we just dont have a clue what we're talking about. :rolleyes:
Find out on your own,then. This site isn't supposed to be a place to debate. It's supposed to be a place to get other's experience and knowledge.
Too many argue and try to make the other guy look bad-oh well.
My advice to you, is call up some reputable drag suspension companies and ask them all the questions you want. But I don't trust just one,or two people's advice. I find three that tell the same(or close) story and I take it as truth.
Mike at Chris Alston's Chassisworks,knows what he's talking about. Tell him how fast you want to go,in what vehicle, and he'll tell you what you need to do-down to tire pressure..... The guy is beyond anyone I have ever talked to. But call around. Don't just decide between me and Kevin.
But be sure about this-I know 4-links are better.