View Full Version : Got the paint sprayer, want to pain bc/cc What next?
01-14-2000, 02:28 AM
OK, I purchased a paint sprayer today. IT was 50 bones at Lowes and it was the best they had.
I want to paint BaseCoat/ClearCoat. I will start with the engine compartment of the car.
I need to match the original color. Is this something the guys at the paint store can get off my fender tag?
Whats the best way of matching the factory paint?(if I can't get it exactly 100% the same color I won't freak out; no biggie)
Any tips on painting bc/cc?
The car currently has the factory paint on it. I have 2 coats of sandable primer on the engine compartment. What grit sandpaper should I finish up with before I spray the bc/cc paint?
Any tips would be great sense this is my first time.
01-14-2000, 03:05 AM
Is it an HVLP gun?
72 Charger SE
i highly doubt a $50 dollar gun will spray will enuff to spray bc/cc .
what do u have for an air compessor?
what primer did u use?
01-14-2000, 03:25 AM
I guess you mean High Volume Low Pressure paint gun.
Well, it operates at 40PSI.
I am new to this so I don't know.
My air compressor is a 60gal 6HP professional type.
It has 20ft of metal plumbing with purge valves at the low points and a water sep/regulator at the end.
Why do I need a HVLP sprayer? I must have Knowledge!!!
01-14-2000, 08:21 AM
O.K DOC. let me see if i can shed some light on this. HVLP means high volume low presure the reason for this is because it will use the most paint with less over spray.most hvlp guns are gravity fed that means the bowl sits on top of spray gun.Anouther words you don't waist paint and good for the enviorment.SO when you pay about 300 dollars for the paint that's very important!the color is a number on the fender tag usually a letter and 1 or 2 numbers the paint store will look if you bring the car down their.I wouldn't buy the paint till the day you paint the car.the reason is they mix the paint with a machine better than i can at home .Make sure you have a air presure gage at the end of your hose rite at the gun this is a must because it's never the same as the compressor .sand the primer 400 grit or higher your comp. should work fine use a 8" spray pattern like a foot ball but a little narrower strain the paint before you use it because sometimes it don't mix good with the reducer and it mite spit most hvlp guns have a strainer in the cup on the gun all so . remember use just enough base cote to cover it ,it's only for color the clear cote is the most important 2 ,3,4 coats then sand it with 400 then 1000 then 1500 or higher then wheel it out .Practice on a old fender or hood,wagon,bike,lawn chair,kid's well you get the picture good luck i hope this help's one more thing shop around for the paint you could save as much as 100/150 bux .I like PPG and DUPONT but PPG is better and cost more .
01-14-2000, 12:56 PM
So, you are telling me that I cannot paint BC/CC with the 'regular' paint sprayer that I have? I have to spend big bux on a LPHV sprayer? Or is it that the LPHV sprayer is recommended. I understand having less overspray. You don't waste expensive paint.
Thanks for the information.
01-15-2000, 05:05 AM
you can get a hvlp gun fairly cheep i paid 80.00dollars for mine and i seen one down the street at warehouse tool on sale a couple a days ago for 40.00 bux.all the part's are interchangeable .i see them all the time at swop meets and wholesale supply shops all over.i'll get you the number if you are interested in the one that's on sale.i would use the gun you have for primers and sealers .i have a binks gun for priming but i wont use primer in my hvlp gun .They can go as high as 500 bux but we are not pro's and it's not going to be used every day.but like my grandfather said you are as good as your tool's let you bee.that's good advice and allways makes the job your doing better and easyer all so.the GUN OR GUN'S WILL pay for them selves in the long run .If some one else paint's it figure around 2 ,3 grand with bc/cc so you could screw it up 4/5 times and still do it cheeper.i don't think you could but by the time you are dun you will know what's up in's and out's do's and don'ts .THAT'S worth the money !
01-15-2000, 02:02 PM
Base clear was around before hvlp guns.I find that the low pressure guns dont atomize the metalic paints enough leaving a tiger stripe look.Conventional guns with the four tiny atomizing holes in the face are best for metalics . Clear is a vary different animal
because you use less reducer.Turn down your pressure to keep it wet yet thin.
You can also order any b/c paint color in a one part mix .I use this for inside doors and hood compartments.I painted the side door on wifes minivan with Centari and for an everyday driver this is easier, cheaper and good enough for me.(and you can`t even tell that its not b/c)
01-15-2000, 02:21 PM
Ok, so the HVLP guns arn't all that expensive. Hey, are you talking about one of those Wagner Power Painter? Is that a HVLP gun?
Painting is completely new to me so I know nothing about it.
01-15-2000, 06:10 PM
painting can be a real pain in the butt.if you are using matalics personally i hate matalic paint because it's hard to match and it's hard to mix.to thick you get orange peel to thin you get tiger stripes,shadows .the matalic allways sit's in the bottom of the can .that's why i buy the paint the same day i paint.the weather has a lot to do with it too.dry,hot,cool.windy.but 1-step paint is a good way to go allso it's cheeper look's good but not as forgiving on mistakes 'i used 1-step and went over it with clear coat and worked great cheeper too.If i were you i would go to your local paint supply and don't buy nothing ask them a ton of questions have them show you a hvlp gun compair different prices on paints ,types of paints,and then go to anouther supply store and compair the two .when you compair DUPONT AND PPG products their's a big difference in price and applications to mixing the paint.being a good painter takes years of practice so don't be mad when you make mistakes ,i've made allot of them but that's what learning is all about .the gun you have may work fine try it it's just every book and article i've read has recomended using hvlp guns and i really like using mine as well.
I have painted a few cars and I am no expert, but this is my advice.
The surface prep under the paint is very important if you can feel a imperfection it will show thru the paint. take your time and do it over and over if you need to. One trick I use is to use a differnt color primer over the primer surfacer and sand to find the high and low spots. I prefer to use ppg or dupont acrylic enamal with the high gloss hardener additive, this gives a paint job that I think looks better than a base coat clear coat and its cheaper and less work.
when you get your paint get a viscosity cup to use for checking your paint-reducer mix to get it just right the viscity specs should be included with the paint mixing instructions. Mettalics are no problem if you shake the paint gun a little bit once in a while during painting. I should of said this at the begining of my post, if you havent painted before and this is a mopar you want to look good up close, you are better off paying someone with experience to spray it for you.Its harder to do than it looks. I have seen several amature paint jobs that look bad up close. good luck
01-19-2000, 11:28 PM
Thanks for the advice.
I was at the autopaint store yestereday and they said I would need about a quart of paint to pain the engine compartment.
With paint, reducer, so on so forth, they said $200 for the paint. I almost croaked.
I am not afraid of tackling the engine compartment. Most of that will be hidden when the engine goes back in. But the body is a different story. It will be in the sunlight and everything will show. I guess I will leave it to a pro.
I will do all the body work myself and all the primering and prep. And let the pro spray it. Thats the best way I can save some money.
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