Need HELP setting timing!

[Dart_340_Swinger]

I have a 77' Dodge Powerwagon with a 360 Headers, duals, edelbrock intake and holly 650 carb! I can seem to set my timing on it! I also need to know where to set it at i was always told like 4 degrees retarded, but i do a lot of hills so i need to know the best spot! Also when i go to time it it (the timing mark) always jumps around! Someone just give me a process to follow!!

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1970 Dodge Dart 340 Swinger-now has a mild 318 and plans for more performance.
1977 Dodge POWERWAGON
360ci with Dana rears and a 4-speed, with 35"tires!

[Dart_340_Swinger]

What the HECK happended to this board! When i first started here we had half the members and 3x more responces, now we have 3x more member and -3x the responces, i'm sorry but i'm not happy with evereyone, nothin personal, i just looked up to everyone with my problems seeing as i'm only 17-OH WELL MAYBE I"LL BUY A HONDA------

P.S.-Nevermind no matter how bad it gets i'll never buy JAP!

[mopartodd]

Warm your engine to operating temperature. stop engine and install timing light if it's not the induction type. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose and plug it. Check your initial timing, set to proper spec. if needed. Now rev motor to 2000 RPM, now your going to check your mechanical advance, get the degree of advance at roughly 2000 RPM. Now hook up your vacuum advance and rev to same level. This is your total advance, initial + mechanical + vacuum. The electronic ignition instructions say not to have more than 50 degrees total advance, but every engine will require some tweaking. Drive the truck up a hill in high gear and give it some gas. if it pings, reduce the timing by adjusting the vacuum canister or your initial timing setting. Good Luck with your Powerwagon.

[pishta]

If your timing is jumping around, you may want to check your timing chain for some serious slack. Also check the tang on the bottom of the distributor for wear, and also the cam thrust plate. It may be walking on you. Get a piston stop and find true TDC, sometimes the timing marks on a damper will move in relation to the center hub. You can also check the lubrication of the rotating advance plate inside the distributor and the vacuum diaphragm integrity.

[DAVE JONES]

I'd like to add something to Pishta's story. be sides looking at the tang at the end of your dist. look where it meshes with the intermediate shaft slot. there may be wear there. I also want to add a check for you while you're in there to check the shaft bushing. mine did the same thing and was hosed. my first idication was when I put a large flat blade screwdrive down in the slot in the intermediate shaft, I could rotate the shaft around and you could actually see it move cw and ccw and sideways because of the excess play. Thats probably not it but while your in there you may want to look at it since it doesnt take long.

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[Dart_340_Swinger]

I'm sorry if i mislead ya! The timing mark dosn't jump around that much! Maybe a little! I' really need to know where i should set the timing the problem is i set the timing to TDC at 0 degrees! I always though thats where most Mopars went, then i drove it and hit the hill and i herd some "KNOCK". I knew i was to advanced. The guy before me had it at about 8 degrees BTDC (retarded) I only timed it because i though i could squeeze a little more horses out of it! So can anyone give me a spec on a 77' 360ci with headers, duals, edelbrock preformer intake, holley 600carb,.
THANKS AGAIN!!!

[Drag340]

There is no set rule on where your timing should be set on a modified motor. Back it off about two degrees at a time 'til it quits detonating.



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Mike
340" Front engine digger

[nuts4mopars]

Try this. Take you timing light and wrap up the cords so it's good and tight. Now, throw it as hard as you can into the street. Now with that problem solved, do it the way the old timers used to. Hook up a vacuum guage to it and set your timing where it pulls the most vacuum. This is how I was taught waaaayyy back when! It's seems to be very consistent with air density, moisture, etc. Just my .02 worth.

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Jimmy Pickett
68 Formula S Cuda notchback 340 4 speed
69 Formula S Cuda notchback 340-6 auto
69 Roadrunner 383 4 speed
70 Challenger convertible RT 440-6
46 Indian Chief
40 LaSalle Coupe
61 Corvette LS1 6 speed tube chassis Grand Sport suspension & brakes
94 Corvette autocrosser
...and still going

[Dart_340_Swinger]

So what your tellin me is to get the truck to idle and hook up a vacumm gauage that goes to the vacumm advance and retard timing untill i get it to where the most vaccumm is created! Can i ask you why i need to time it this way instead of the old way

[cruzerjd]

Haven't been here for a while so I'm sorry I missed your queston. First off, the vacuum gauge theory may work for your idle, but with all due respect to nuts4mopar, I cannot see how it would work. Do as some of the others have said, I set my stocker 318 at approx 8 btdc, then I have adjusted it till I can get the best advance with no pinging. I ran the advance off of the ported vacuum fitting but others here have their opinions as well. This port is the one that has no vacuum at idle but has vacuum after the throttle has opened. You did not specify which 650 Holley you had so I cannot expond on that further. I use a Holley 4160 600 cfm carb so that is the one have experience with. You shouldn't be having detonation problems at 8 degrees btdc so I can't see what the problem is. As others before me have mentioned be sure you have the vacuum advance disconnected before you time it. Good luck, cruzerjd

[Dart_340_Swinger]

I had no problem at 8 degrees BTDC! I just wanted to set it at TDC to see it i could get anymore power, actually i lost power! Well is there anymore hints!!

[mtrv8n]

Yes, I have spent mucho time timing my crate 360. I have the MP electronic dist setup, with vacuum advance. The easiest and best way I've come across, straight from the mags, is to use a setback(dial) type timing light, block off the vacuum port real good, and bring your revs to 2200 - 2500 rpm. The advance is SUPPOSED to be in at 2000, but mine goes a bit higher, which you need to know to set mechanical total. SEt it for 35 degrees to start(I use 34, like the easy starting..but..) and road it about without the vacuum hooked up. If you want, advance it a bit more(MP suggests 38 for 360 crate motors..). When you are satisfied there, it's time to attach the vacuum advance back in. Now, read carefully, the vacuum advance does nothing at WOT, as there is no measurable vacuum when you crank it wide open. It will advance under part and light throttle, and can cause pinging under those conditions. If it does, then stick an allen wrench down it's throat and back it off till the pinging goes away. Or, just leave the damn thing disconnected. If you only race, the vacuum does nothing. It is there to "lean burn" at cruise for fuel efficiency and to keep the cylinders clean when cruising. You can replace the vacuumcannister with different values if you really need to fine tune that part of the ignition. I find this leaves me at about 5 degrees btdc, but I don't worry about the number there as long as she starts easy, runs hard, and doesn't ping!