View Full Version : Torsion Bar Installation

04-08-2003, 08:53 PM
I just got a set of 383 Mopar Performance torsion bars for my '64 Barracuda. Is there a front and a back to these things? Both ends of the bars have the the number 894. Under that on one end is the letters FB, and on the other end are the numbers 231. What does all this mean?

04-08-2003, 09:18 PM
It doesn't matter which end goes where as to what the #'s mean, who made 'em?

04-08-2003, 09:23 PM
I just replaced the torsion bars on my coronet with a set from mancini racing and they are the same from front to back. I don't know about A bodies though. The numbers are probably the phone number of some hot broad from luxumbourgh.

04-09-2003, 11:27 AM
Well, I would think that if there is a right and a left marked on each one, then there would also be a front and a back.

04-09-2003, 11:54 AM
I have read where folks have said to mark the front and back of torsion bars when you pull them out so you can put them back in the same way. I think the purpose is because they have spent their whole service life twisting in one direction. Now obviously, on rebound, they twist back to as near as their original position as possible, but, if you were to install them backwards, they would be twisting the other direction, which I think may damage them. I dont know for sure, but this sounds reasonable. I dont think new ones will matter until they have been used for a while tho. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in on this subject.

:) :D :cool:

04-09-2003, 12:04 PM
Quote from Chiltons Manual

"Contrary to appearance, the torsion bars are not interchangeable from left to right. They are marked with an "R" or an "L", according to their location.

Then it goes on to a step by step installation guide.

04-09-2003, 12:16 PM
yes, the bars are clearly marked L and R, however, they arent marked as to which is the front end or rear end of them. Am I wrong about damaging them by reversing front to back when re-installing them?

:) :D :cool:

04-09-2003, 12:22 PM
See what Bbeckwith and I are saying? If the bars are right and left, then if you take a bar marked for the right side, and install it backwards, it's the same as installing it on the left side. Right?

Madman Stephan
04-09-2003, 03:33 PM
I started removing my entire driver's side front suspension this morning in order to install new bushings, and now I have three pieces just "hanging" there: the torsion rod, the control arm, and the strut that's attached to the K-frame.

I know that I need a special tool to remove the torsion bar, but, I don't see how twisting the bar will remove it. Then I realized that the tool isn't used for twisting because the rod isn't screwed in place, d'uh......

Now that I've learned something new today, it's time to have a beer.

04-09-2003, 04:13 PM
When I was gathering parts for my circle burner I ordered a set of 1.16's from MP, and recieved 2 R's. I called and explained the situation and was asked to return 1 for replacement. After about a week I recieved the same bar back with a written explanation that there was no difference in the Performance bars, just the stockers were location sensitive. After examining the rest of my bars (1.06 thru 1.22) I could see what they meant. Some sets are like a hex shaft with the middle turned down (flats are even) Some are staggered (flats are offset) The offset puts a hex point at the center of the flat on the other end. Stockers are offset also but the point on the hex is not centered on the flat at the other end of the shaft, they are location sensitive.

04-09-2003, 05:11 PM
Perhaps the FB stamped on one end of the bars means Frame Bracket. If this is correct, it would prove my point that there is a right and left, AND a Front and Back to the bars.

Any comments on this?

04-09-2003, 08:44 PM
Madman Stephan,

You have released the pressure on the torsion bar adjust bolt I take it, and removed the torsion bar retainer clips? If so, go ahead and unbolt the strut rod from the k-member as well as the bolt holding the lower control arm to the k-member. You can then try to loosen the torsion bar from the frame by pulling up and down and backwards on the lca. This sometimes helps to loosen the torsion bar. Definitely a good idea to mark the bar as to which end is front and which is back, just in case. Good luck

:) :D :cool:

04-09-2003, 09:06 PM
It doesn't matter which end goes to the front. If I could explain it in words I would, so bare with me here.

Pretend that you on in the engine compartment. Facing the left tire. Holding the t-bar in both hands, one hand at each end.

Pretend you are twisting it in the direction that the bar would twist if the tire hit a bump. Your right hand will move up as your wrist bent. And your left hand could be moving down as the wrist bent.

Now still holding the "bar", move around like you are standing beside the car still facing the left tire.

Now move the left hand down as the wrist bends. Like the tire hit a bump. Your right hand could be moving up as the wrist bends.

As you will see the bar WILL twist in the same direction regardless which end is towards the front.

Maybe try this with a piece of licorish or something like that which will twist and stay twisted. You'll see what I mean.

Madman Stephan
04-10-2003, 02:24 PM
Okay, so I spent this morning making that "special" tool, installing it, and then whacking it with the 5 pound sledge. Each time it would move, I would tighten it up. I've put LOTS of penetrating oil where it counts and I'm at the point where I'm thinking cutting it up with the Saw-z-all and buying new ones..... Hmmm, maybe I should weld that special tool in place.

04-12-2003, 06:45 PM
I agree with AMX.
I always thought the difference between L and R was because the weight supported by each bar was different. Has anybody weighed their car at each tire to check if the loads are different? Don't forget that you should probably weigh it with the usual driver in the driver's seat. I always inserted the bar with the L or R facing rearward, so I could read that they were installed correctly!

04-12-2003, 11:30 PM
hey amxauto-x, your description of the torsion bars was very creative, and I liked the idea of the licorish thing, I was using pencils to visualize the twisting motion but, I was looking at them from front to back instead of from the side as you did. When I looked at it from your perspective I understood where you are coming from.

:) :D :cool:

Madman Stephan
04-13-2003, 12:59 PM
Yes, victory over that inanimate carbon steel rod is mine! At approximately, 8:00 Sunday morning, the torsion rod came out. After trying to hit it out of there with a 10 lb sledge for the past two days, I decided to incorporate some "hydraulic" help in the form of my car jack. I wedged it in between the two "arms" of the K-frame, so that it would apply pressure to the large bolt holding the lower control arm to the K-frame, then, I started pumpin'. With the help of a 4 foot extension on the jack, I managed to move the control arm approx. 1/2", then I whacked my torsion bar tool with the sledge, and out it popped!

I guess the extra two tons of pressure helped a bit.....

04-13-2003, 01:03 PM
I understood where you are coming from.
Glad I could help even a little bit. Took me a while to figure out that discription! Then put it into words.

04-13-2003, 01:05 PM
I guess the extra two tons of pressure helped a bit.....
Hey, if it don't work, get a bigger hammer! If that doesn't work 2 tons of pressure sure won't hurt!:D