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  #1  
Old 05-18-2017, 03:21 PM
JC JC is offline
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Default K Frame Redesign

I'm think about building my own (I) shape frame, single cross member for the lower control arms then flip the strut rods to the back side weld a bung thru the stock rails for a heim joint tube.Then just put s steering box out front with drag link idler arm for a front steer conversion. Thought's need input. JC
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:31 PM
340king 340king is offline
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Thumbs up Tension versus Compression

As a designer, you always prefer items that are in tension versus compression. The reason is that items in tension tend to stay in line with the force applied. In contrast, items in compression want to squirm around and are much harder to keep in line. They are also quite a bit heavier to reduce the column buckling that is possible in compression. So that rear rod that replaces that drag strut will need to be at least twice as strong.
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Old 05-21-2017, 12:32 PM
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Thanks King that squirming around with the steering linkage is the entire reason for the redesign and room. I have never been able to get it stable enough on entry's. And I have the car down to a rolling chassis, so why not not. One more shot
And I'll just have to give up and put all the parts on another chassis. Just wondered if anybody else had done this. It would save me a lot of time. Me and dragracerx have been talking. Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2017, 12:44 AM
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Come on people this thing is showing over 100 guess. Nobody got any ideas.
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:04 PM
dgr43 dgr43 is offline
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A friend of mine tried what you are talking about turned the k frame around but used a rack instead of a steering box turned good he never really gave it a chance and cut the clip back off see if I can get a pic for you still used the torsion bars.
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:11 PM
dgr43 dgr43 is offline
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I have a car we build a 3 by 2 front clip used a 1971 k frame , 1973 b body lowers to widen the front end and we modified the strut rods made our own uppers has 73 c body spindles with full size cheb calipers to run good pads I think it will work good just never finished the car yet
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:44 PM
dgr43 dgr43 is offline
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:46 PM
dgr43 dgr43 is offline
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:46 PM
JC JC is offline
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Thanks, still thinking great ideas.
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:14 PM
Krooser Krooser is offline
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Swartz dirt late models use a rear strut mount and they seem to work great... wish I had a photo. There were many pavement cars built this way, too.
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  #11  
Old 06-11-2017, 01:51 PM
dirtmopar44 dirtmopar44 is offline
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dgr43 has got it right using the late model b body lowers you can put the car in the weeds using them. If its asphalt thats what you want and the added benifit is a lot of upper a arm angle. I would reinforce the end of the strut rod were the nut is with a 1/4 plate or I have used a piece of 2 or 2 1/2 inch pipe in the frame with a plate inside the pipe.
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  #12  
Old 06-27-2017, 10:33 PM
340king 340king is offline
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Default Steering Arms

I was mainly referring to the strut rod being in compression and not the steering arms. The funny thing about steering arms is that they are always going back and forth in whether they are in tension or compression. So whether they are in front of or behind the ball joints doesn't really change any of that.

If you were having issues with a squirmy front end, it was more likely due to some rubber bushings moving around or some other part that was flexing. I know that some of the upper A frame mounts were flimsy from the factory and required quite a bit of reinforcement.
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