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  #301  
Old 02-20-2009, 02:07 AM
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Dick Dick is offline
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Biggrin

I just got back from 3 days at Niagara Falls. My PM box was bursting with complaints about this guy. Well, he is gone and all his posts have been pulled.

Sorry for any inconvenience.
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  #302  
Old 03-08-2009, 10:52 AM
racincuda racincuda is offline
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Default Bac to oil systems ???

I have been reading this topic for th last couple of weeks and have found it very informative to say the least but I still have a question for those in th kno.
1. What will enlarging the pickup tube size to 1/2 or 5/8 do to my oil pressure ? Already about 80 on cold start up.
2. If I enlarge th pickup tube will th stock pan be good enough ?

This is in a street strip 340 that probably never see 7000 rpm
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  #303  
Old 09-02-2009, 11:54 PM
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Default oiling mods

Hi i read your post on oiling mods and wonder how extensive i need to get on a 360 stroker build (factory block)that will see 7000 rpms max in a straight line for brief periods. It's a Street car(68 Dart) with auto trans and 3:91 gears. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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  #304  
Old 09-03-2009, 10:34 AM
D411-Lightning D411-Lightning is offline
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Hey Sanborn,

I was reading Smokey Yunick's autobiography the other month, and he said in one of his experiments that he used a power steering pump for use as a dry sump pump, but he never really explained how it worked and how useful it was. so....1) is it feasible for a motor that might see 8,000rpm and 2)would it be hard to make a PS pump do that....
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  #305  
Old 09-06-2009, 05:35 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Smokey had one of the great minds-----and loved to do stuff like that!

But, with used dry sump pumps so cheap----why bother?
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  #306  
Old 09-06-2009, 05:37 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Smokey had one of the great minds-----and loved to do stuff like that!

But, with used dry sump pumps so cheap----why bother?
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  #307  
Old 10-23-2009, 09:14 PM
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Ok I have a question now that I'm gonna be building a car. I would like to do these mod's but I don't think I can get away with the tube under the intake to feed the left side lifters. What about enlarging the front main bearing galley large enough to feed both the front bearing and left side lifters?
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  #308  
Old 10-23-2009, 09:29 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVMopar View Post
Ok I have a question now that I'm gonna be building a car. I would like to do these mod's but I don't think I can get away with the tube under the intake to feed the left side lifters. What about enlarging the front main bearing galley large enough to feed both the front bearing and left side lifters?

JV

The crossover tube under the intake is actually to provide high velocity oil to the front main bearing.
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  #309  
Old 10-24-2009, 11:09 AM
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That isn't how I understood this. The left side lifters are feed oil from the front main bearing. This causes a lack of lubrication for the front main bearing. Plus I believe that he said somewhere that he either put a plug in the oil galley at the main bearing journal that feeds the left side or puts a core plug deep enough to cover the hole in the left side lifter galley at the front of the block.

It has been a while since I read this post from begining to end.
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  #310  
Old 10-24-2009, 12:36 PM
aarracer aarracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVMopar View Post
That isn't how I understood this. The left side lifters are feed oil from the front main bearing. This causes a lack of lubrication for the front main bearing. Plus I believe that he said somewhere that he either put a plug in the oil galley at the main bearing journal that feeds the left side or puts a core plug deep enough to cover the hole in the left side lifter galley at the front of the block.

It has been a while since I read this post from begining to end.
With the lifter valley oil gallery crossover tube the rhs #1 main bearing feed is plugged.
With the boring and tubing of the RHS oil gallery(sp), the lhs main bearing feed to the lhs lifter oil gallery is plugged.

Reccommended for operation above 7000 rpm.

Not for hydraulic lifter applications.
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  #311  
Old 11-02-2009, 10:19 PM
69mope 69mope is offline
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Default Questions

sanborn, I have a question. In your early posts you go into detail drilling out the oil pump and passages out to .500" and using -12 (5/8"ID) to the oil filter and back to the block. My question is were you state that you tap both holes in the block at the factory oil filter mounting to 3/8"NPT (3/8"ID). Doesn't this 3/8" restriction at both of these fittings defeat the whole purpose of all the other modifications. Also, is there enough material in that area to drill and tap to 1/2"NPT or even 3/4"NPT? I can't thank you enough for passing on all the valuable info on both oiling and cooling.
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  #312  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:44 AM
mightymouse mightymouse is offline
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The 3/8"NPT steel fittings can be enlarged to .500" ID. The best fittings to purchase come from CV Products, are machined billet, long neck and come with the .500 inside dimension. You may be confusing 3/8" NPT with a actual .375" dimension.

It's really best to machine, drill and tap the block for 1/2" NPT threads----but this is sometimes beyond the capability of the backyard racer.
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  #313  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:38 PM
NoHemi NoHemi is offline
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Hello everyone. This is my first post here. This has got to be one of the most informative post (and longest over time) in posting history.

I have a question about my R3. It is tubed and the lifter bores are sleeved. After the tube was installed, it was clearanced for the lifter with the Mopar slug tool. The lifter bushings were then installed. I am converting to pushrod oiling now. My question concerns the oiling. The tube indention and the lifter bore sleeve don't form a tight seal (The tube was simply dimpled to clear the sleeve). I don't think I will have an issue but needed some opinions. If I drill the oil hole through the sleeve into the tube, I will have a little "pocket" between the sleeve and tube. I don't see how this oil could go anywhere but into the lifter bore. Does anyone see an issue here?

My other question is lifters. I bought the Crower Hippo rollers. The oil feed hole is above the cutout band. Crower told me to line the feed hole up with the band in the lifter on the base circle, but DO NOT line up the feed hole in the lifter with the bore hole. The say this will over oil the top end and cause pressure problems. This is contrary to what I've always known. They told me that oil scavenged from the bore is more than adequate for pushrod oiling. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks.
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  #314  
Old 12-04-2009, 01:20 AM
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did the oiling mods today on a stock 360 block from an 89 truck. all of the passages were already to the size or larger then what is recomended but i did make sure they were free and clear. this will be a solid flat tappet circle track motor. gonna get the lifter bores corrected and bushed. i will be using the jesel rockers and doing the crossover line tee-ed off of the front main oil line over to the left center. question is do i have to put any holes in any of the lifter bushings? and im reading about oiling holes that go up through the heads to oil the stock rockers.. what do i do with those? thanks
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  #315  
Old 03-06-2010, 07:36 AM
mark howlett mark howlett is offline
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Gday all, im new here and i cant seem to get the pics to down load,can anyone tell me wot i need to do?
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  #316  
Old 03-06-2010, 07:56 AM
mark howlett mark howlett is offline
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yea me too.
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  #317  
Old 03-06-2010, 09:40 AM
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At the beginning of the year mopar chat did a major update to their server. And those pictures were lost. Pretty much all photos before the beginning of january aren't available to anyone.
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  #318  
Old 03-06-2010, 07:01 PM
mark howlett mark howlett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVMopar View Post
At the beginning of the year mopar chat did a major update to their server. And those pictures were lost. Pretty much all photos before the beginning of january aren't available to anyone.
Thanks JVMopar, what a bummer. there is a bunch of us here in OZ that would love to see those pics. Can anyone tell me were i can get more info on the crossover tube mod. Cheers mark.
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  #319  
Old 03-06-2010, 10:19 PM
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The oil tube crossover.

The reason for it is to not starve the #1 main bearing for oil. So what he does is on the left bank lifter galley is to drive a galley plug in far enough to cover the hole going from the #1 oil galley. Then in the lifter valley at the front of the right oil galley drill and tap a hole. Then drill and tap a hole in the center of the left oil galley drill and tap a whole. Then he connects the two with a piece of flared brake line and fittings. Routing the line around the pushrods of course.

So instead of the oil going down to the #1 main bearing and then up to the left side lifters. The oil is supplied to the left side lifters from the installed line. Leaving more oil for the main bearing.

Hope I explained it good enough. Hope that was the right mod you were looking for. I'm not an expert on the subject but I got to see the pics and am doing the mod on a 318 I have on the stand.
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  #320  
Old 03-07-2010, 03:32 AM
mark howlett mark howlett is offline
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So as i under stand it i have to plug the left hand galley from behind the galley plug that is in the front of the block with another galley plug is that right? why cant i just plug it in the no #1 main bearing from the bottom?
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  #321  
Old 03-07-2010, 09:23 AM
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Yes you understand correctly. I don't see why you couldn't plug it down at the main bearing. A galley plug is just a real simple way of doing it I guess. Only tools involved is a hammer and drift.
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  #322  
Old 03-07-2010, 07:46 PM
mark howlett mark howlett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVMopar View Post
Yes you understand correctly. I don't see why you couldn't plug it down at the main bearing. A galley plug is just a real simple way of doing it I guess. Only tools involved is a hammer and drift.
Thanks mate, thats what i thought. thanks again for your help.
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  #323  
Old 03-08-2010, 09:52 PM
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I was out today doing my oil modifications so I figured I'd snap a few photo's. I'm not doing all of the mods.

Drill these holes out to 1/2 inch.


There is a core plug down in this hole. Remove it and drill it to 1/2 inch.


Drill the hole with the red arrow to 1/2 inch. Since the small blocks have problems with the rear main seal leaking I went ahead a ground out the hole with the blue arrow to help oil return to the pan.


Here is the oil cross over tube. Arrows show where to drill. I'm not doing this mod cause I don't think it will pass tech. But I layed a piece of line in there to show how it'd go. I would do it neater but you get the idea


Here is the oil holes going from the main oil galley to the main bearings. Drill these to 9/32 or 5/16.


That's all I have for now. I'm going to slot main bearings when I get them. But that's all the mods I'm doing.

Notice I've been smoothing out the sharp edges like he was talking about.

Hope this helps.
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  #324  
Old 03-09-2010, 09:07 PM
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I drill extra holes in the oil filter plate too, and round them off good too. Sanborn had a picture of one done, but it is gone now.
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  #325  
Old 03-11-2010, 06:10 AM
mark howlett mark howlett is offline
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Thanks heaps for going to the trouble of taking the pics it helps a lot.Glad i found this site.Thanks again guys.
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  #326  
Old 03-28-2010, 11:14 PM
69HemiGTX 69HemiGTX is offline
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Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to use some if I can ever afford to go racing again.

Did anyone save the pics to their computer? I would think at least someone did. I know I always save good tech for future use.
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  #327  
Old 06-08-2010, 11:51 PM
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Default Oiling Bypass

I don't think I have posted this photo yet. It shows the oil bypass that I plumbed into Cageman's recently departed 340. This balances the oil pressure from the rear to front of the block. That way the oil doesn't want to run past the 2nd main bearing feed so much. The bearings look like new as they should, even after breaking the crank. I drilled into the oil passage through the distributer mounting hole in the rear of the block and at the front just past the first lifter boss for #2 exhaust. I used 1/4" NPT and then adapted it down to a ferule style of tube fastener for simplicity. It seems to work well. I also plug the feed over to the driver's side oil gallery. The plug is for solid lifter applications only.
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  #328  
Old 08-11-2010, 09:00 PM
gdking gdking is offline
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Default 360

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
The oiling system modifications described earlier are for typical limited engine oval track racing. If you get into really high RPM oval track racing,IE, Nascar Supertrucks, Super Late Model, etc. there are additional modifications to be done to the block, bearings and other components. Or if you use high vacuum dry sump systems there are other things to do.

We have also found several things to do to the cooling system to produce more consistent cooling throughout the RPM range.

Now that I have discovered a new toy(publishing photos on the net), I will probably bore you with all this stuff.

Got to get to work!
i have a question...i am building a 360 for oval track. The class is a stock v8 class save for cam and chopping heads. What advice would you have for me to get around the tech guy and maximize the torque of this engine. I have a 77 block, will be running a .450 lift cam. I assume the heads are 72 cc because they are from 77 as well and the motor had a lean burn system. also, is it advisable to run new std. pistons in a used std. bore?
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  #329  
Old 01-06-2011, 02:05 PM
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sfr in alaska curently building 1970 duster stock car your info is the most complete ive seen. Ive always ran big block satelites and had good succuse this is my first attempt at a light waight small block oiling is quit different I still have a big block street car and my sons have twq small block dusters i am 52 and still loving it
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  #330  
Old 03-24-2011, 08:23 AM
rlaman821 rlaman821 is offline
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All I can say is it's a crying shame you circle track guys don't run big blocks. There is a ton of info here but I'm not sure how to apply it to my 440. Good stuff guys!
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