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  #331  
Old 03-24-2011, 08:26 PM
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rlaman, unlike the small blocks, the 440's have a pretty good oiling system and do not require all the mods mentioned here. We have multiple wins in street stock classes running a 440 Dakota. Just clean up the oil passages, set your clearances, run a good pan, and buzz it around 6500 and you'll be fine!!!!!

Lon
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  #332  
Old 03-25-2011, 10:15 AM
rlaman821 rlaman821 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lon View Post
rlaman, unlike the small blocks, the 440's have a pretty good oiling system and do not require all the mods mentioned here. We have multiple wins in street stock classes running a 440 Dakota. Just clean up the oil passages, set your clearances, run a good pan, and buzz it around 6500 and you'll be fine!!!!!

Lon
Thanks for the info Lon. What clearance are you running on the mains and are you using synthetics? I usually run .015 on mains and rods but some of the my racing buddys like .025 on the 454s. I'm also using the full groove mains.
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  #333  
Old 03-25-2011, 07:13 PM
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Usually shoot for around .0025. Don't use synthetic unless I see the oil temp above 250 or so. Have had good luck out of the Brad Penn green oil (old Kendall GT1). Lon
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  #334  
Old 03-26-2011, 09:04 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Good Morning---
Lon is absolutely correct; the big block has a pretty good system up to that 6500 RPM area. Years ago when we were using a 451 low deck engine for Late Model power, we had to buzz it up to 7800. This RPM presented a problem that required some other work:
1. the main bearings were slotted----just like the old Nascar bearings
from Direct Connection.
2. We went to a dry sump oiling system
3. The rocker shafts were both lubricated from main bearing #4. We
changed this to lubricate the rocker shafts externally and plugged
the rocker shaft passages in the block.
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  #335  
Old 03-27-2011, 08:16 AM
rlaman821 rlaman821 is offline
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This is some good info guys. Its always good to hear from the experienced ones. You can't buy experience. Thanks guys.
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  #336  
Old 04-03-2011, 01:08 PM
txserpent txserpent is offline
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Good info thanks Sanborn and everyone else
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  #337  
Old 05-10-2011, 07:00 PM
paulson312 paulson312 is offline
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Curious if anyone saved the pictures sanborn posted at the beginning of this thread?
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  #338  
Old 06-08-2011, 06:06 PM
vern01 vern01 is offline
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Default ProTruck 360 dodge with oiling and bearing issues

Sanborn

We are to new to the site to PM you. Would like to be able to chat with you on the phone. would you consider sending us a PM with a phone number. At you conveinance of course

Vern & Alex
Lesko Racing
Saskatoon Saskatchewan, Canada
1-306-717-6019
1-306-384-4963
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  #339  
Old 06-20-2011, 03:14 PM
sfr sfr is offline
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some great ideas for my next motor trying to put my current engine back together to finish the season, i have a mopar tube kit to restrick oiling in the lifter galley - but mopar no longer sells the drill bit - do you know ao anyone who sells one or can i use a standard 5/8 long drill bit, are u up for a phone call about some issues? Butch in alaska
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  #340  
Old 06-20-2011, 04:06 PM
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call alex or vern, we will share our experinces, but read this thread throughly and repeatedly,this is the true motherload of information

Vern
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  #341  
Old 06-27-2011, 05:29 PM
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thank you mr sanborn I spent sunday with my sons drilling and tapping on our 360 its off to be flushed out and cam bearings installed I hope to have the enjine back togather this week but I am back to work for 2 weeks up north but we will try it out win we get back sfr
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  #342  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:44 AM
sanborn sanborn is offline
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Good Morning everyone! I am amazed that my post of ten years ago is still discussed and referred to so much. I was glad to do it and it was done because so many persons kept destroying engines with improper oiling. The recommendations were not very complicated nor expensive but were often overlooked when preparing an engine.

The engine used for the post was sold several years ago and still is running in competition. No major repairs----just periodic bearings, rings, valve work, etc. For most oval track racing, a good engine with good parts should last thousands of laps----and many years.

We have not used an iron block in competition in eight years. And, we stopped racing late model dirt cars four years ago. Why did we stop? I guess thirty years of dirt cars was enough, they have gotten too complicated, too expensive, too many races per year(50) and I have gotten too old and it just lost it's "buzz" for me.

We are still racing but now its nostalgia drag racing. We have a 225" front engine dragster and are using a 358" Dodge P7 engine. A P7 engine is totally different from a standard Dodge engine----nothing interchanges. We had an individual injector setup built( I guess its the only one for a P7) and have had a lot of fun with it. It runs really well----on good air days it will go 7.35 sec @ about 179. We run index classes so its "heads up" and our index is 7.50 seconds. Things are a little different; our RPMs are now around 11K through the traps. We use methanol and run the engine "dry" and still have a little trouble getting temperature up at times. There are still several things we want to do to the engine-----I would love to get the car into the "sixes" with only 358"----we still have a few engine things to do and it may require a little nitro to get us there---but time will tell.

I post all of this information because in the past ten years, I have had several health issues and my memory may not be a good as it used to be. I still have the "fire in the belly" but sometimes I have trouble remembering why I have the fire!
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  #343  
Old 06-28-2011, 07:48 PM
vern01 vern01 is offline
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Default would love to chat on the phone

could you pm a phone number and maybe a time that works for you to chat

Vern and Alex at Lesko Racing
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  #344  
Old 08-16-2011, 02:02 PM
blue dart23 blue dart23 is offline
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Default loosing oil pressure

I have a 360 that seems to loose oil pressure after 7 or 8 hard laps I am running a stock pan could this be my problem
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  #345  
Old 08-16-2011, 05:42 PM
dirtmopar44 dirtmopar44 is offline
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yes it could be. stock pan needs baffles welded in to keep oil around pic-up. You could also have the pic-up to close to the bottom of the pan. you need 3/8 in but I like 1/2 just in case the pan gets dented. I would suggest a Kevco stock location pan.
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  #346  
Old 08-16-2011, 10:22 PM
blue dart23 blue dart23 is offline
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Angry

The motor has been moved back so it has a truck pan. I just built the bottom end and the car was very fast then the oil pressure just. Went to 0 the motor isn't knocking but i don't want to ruin the motor
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  #347  
Old 08-17-2011, 08:54 AM
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Check your oil pump drive (intermediate shaft). Make sure the end isn't twisted off. Definately add some baffles to the pan, and restrict the oil to the drivers side lifter galley by using a core plug with a 1/8" hole.
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  #348  
Old 08-17-2011, 08:25 PM
dirttrackracer dirttrackracer is offline
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I had a bypass valve in the oil pump stick open. it resulted in basicly 0 oil pressure. Another thing to look at.
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  #349  
Old 10-17-2011, 02:42 AM
69fury 69fury is offline
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I'm not sure if any of these mods would be helpful to me in a street/dragstrip application but i'm always willing to learn.

It's a 415 using an earlier 360block with Mopar 4" crank, Eagle SIR I beams, Wiseco protrue forged pistons that are about 10.15:1 with the Edelbrock RPM heads. Indy Cyl Head valvetrain, Hyd 292 purple cam from Mopar.

462hp/520lbft on the engine dyno. I shift at 6000. It will eventually get about 8-10 pounds of paxton boost and higher octane fuel to go with that compression ratio-either E85 or propane.

The new car i'm slowly putting together caused me to get a rear sump stock sized truck pan-which i am happy to weld on a sump bulge from Speedway motors, if needed.

The pan did fit over my windage tray- but i haven't fired the engine up with this pan yet. Maybe an accumulator would be beneficial- i like the pre-lube ability.

I'm on a super tight budget and am not planning on opening the mill soon (knock wood), but future plans would be:

1.solid roller cam conversion- (any brands other than the super$Comp lifters?)
2. Accumulator (best way to plumb to block and add remote filter at same time?)
3 Left/Right gallery feed mod.

any recommendations?

-rick.
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  #350  
Old 05-08-2012, 12:23 AM
mopar vince mopar vince is offline
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Default bad rod bearings

well i pulled my 360 apart the mains look like new witch they are but the rods are all bad except the ones closest to the pump 7and 8 are ok 5and 6 are spun 3and4 are scored and 1and2 are discolored full groove mains one of the rod bearings is showing brass around the outer edge to the center the other side is fine any help would be great
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  #351  
Old 05-24-2012, 08:00 PM
cpdave cpdave is offline
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I love this thread, but can't seem to see any of Sanborn's photos. Have they aged off the board or have I just not made enough posts yet?
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  #352  
Old 05-25-2012, 08:53 PM
69HemiGTX 69HemiGTX is offline
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Yes, the pics were lost in a data dump by the web host years ago or something. I still find it hard to believe that no one has copies of them as I'd love to see the originals, too.
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  #353  
Old 05-26-2012, 08:36 PM
cpdave cpdave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69HemiGTX View Post
Yes, the pics were lost in a data dump by the web host years ago or something. I still find it hard to believe that no one has copies of them as I'd love to see the originals, too.
Dang! I hate it when that happens!

Oh well, guess I'll have to use my imagionation...
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  #354  
Old 06-06-2012, 01:18 PM
CJD AUTOMOTIVE CJD AUTOMOTIVE is offline
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I found some of the pictures for the cooling and oil mods posted. These were printed out years ago. Tried to scan, but quality was very bad. Took photos of the pages, quality a little better, but still poor. Sorry, best I could do.

Okay I have 10 of the photos, but can't post them because I'm not at 25 post. If a Mod wants to contact me, I'll email them.
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  #355  
Old 06-06-2012, 08:37 PM
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See page 27 for pictures.
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  #356  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:35 PM
mopar vince mopar vince is offline
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why cant you open up the oil filter plate big openings instead of just more holes
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  #357  
Old 06-08-2012, 02:41 PM
mopar vince mopar vince is offline
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anyone have any good clear pics of the block and heads of a 360 for the cooling on a circle track i found some but some of the pics are to dark and i cant see all the holes to drill thanks .....
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  #358  
Old 08-21-2012, 08:23 AM
mopfried mopfried is offline
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I need to post to see pics too.

I guess I have a few more to go.
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  #359  
Old 08-21-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJD AUTOMOTIVE View Post
I found some of the pictures for the cooling and oil mods posted. These were printed out years ago. Tried to scan, but quality was very bad. Took photos of the pages, quality a little better, but still poor. Sorry, best I could do.

Okay I have 10 of the photos, but can't post them because I'm not at 25 post. If a Mod wants to contact me, I'll email them.
You can post the pix as attachments.
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  #360  
Old 10-08-2012, 12:03 PM
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DYNO360 DYNO360 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanborn View Post
Good Morning everyone! I am amazed that my post of ten years ago is still discussed and referred to so much. I was glad to do it and it was done because so many persons kept destroying engines with improper oiling. The recommendations were not very complicated nor expensive but were often overlooked when preparing an engine.

The engine used for the post was sold several years ago and still is running in competition. No major repairs----just periodic bearings, rings, valve work, etc. For most oval track racing, a good engine with good parts should last thousands of laps----and many years.

We have not used an iron block in competition in eight years. And, we stopped racing late model dirt cars four years ago. Why did we stop? I guess thirty years of dirt cars was enough, they have gotten too complicated, too expensive, too many races per year(50) and I have gotten too old and it just lost it's "buzz" for me.

We are still racing but now its nostalgia drag racing. We have a 225" front engine dragster and are using a 358" Dodge P7 engine. A P7 engine is totally different from a standard Dodge engine----nothing interchanges. We had an individual injector setup built( I guess its the only one for a P7) and have had a lot of fun with it. It runs really well----on good air days it will go 7.35 sec @ about 179. We run index classes so its "heads up" and our index is 7.50 seconds. Things are a little different; our RPMs are now around 11K through the traps. We use methanol and run the engine "dry" and still have a little trouble getting temperature up at times. There are still several things we want to do to the engine-----I would love to get the car into the "sixes" with only 358"----we still have a few engine things to do and it may require a little nitro to get us there---but time will tell.

I post all of this information because in the past ten years, I have had several health issues and my memory may not be a good as it used to be. I still have the "fire in the belly" but sometimes I have trouble remembering why I have the fire!
So good to hear that you are still "turning wrenches" on your Mopars. I sure do miss seeing you guys at the Tennessee dirt tracks. I moved to West Virginia about 3 1/2 years ago, and there are some dirt tracks around, but nothing like the ones in TN. I miss Duck River the most, that was the track with the most Mopars. Up here they don't even know what a pentastar is!
Hope you continue "the good fight" against the Ferds and Chebbies.
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