Typical Oiling Modifications

[JC]

I mite have most of the photos on a pc at my office, off of and old hard drive that I crash and we retreved all the data, Maybe but not sure, I had downloaded all of the photos. But we will need Sanborn to to put his 2 cents back on them, Does he ck in now and then. And we really need to put them on another stickey post. and keep the Q/A on this one. JC

[sanborn]

So good to hear from you, Dyno 360. The post you quoted from me must be somewhat old------we have made another change. We pulled out the little P7, 358" screamer and replaced it with a old, 607 HEMI! We now try to run 7.00s @ low 190s. Not there yet but see how to get there! All it takes is work and some $$$$.

My main focus for the past four years is putting our 40 Ford sedan back on the road(Completed), finishing the restoration of a Simplex scooter(Completed) and putting my 40 Ford Pickup on the road. The pickup is coming along, the body looks pretty good, working hard on the flathead Merc engine. Maybe late next year will let me drive it!

And, I am repainting all the vintage garage stuff in front of my shop. Maybe someday I can finish all I have in-process. Then, I can start on my crowning toy------I full size 1841 mountain howlitzer cannon for the front yard.

[jg30911]

how do i get to see attachments,they will not come up,jg30911

[jg30911]

jc i talked to sandborn a couple hrs. ago & he agread we need to get the photos back, said he didn't have any copys, but if you've got them please post them, or get ahould me, my # is 618-806-1564 anytime,thanks jg309(john)

[dirtmopar44]

If everybody can wait untill this weekend I can post pic of a engine that I am doing now.

[JVMopar]

My photos are posted on page 27. They aren't that great but show what he's talking about.

[sanborn]

Good Morning!

Does anyone have original copies of the photos in question? Please take an extra effort to post them!

Thanks!

[dirtmopar44]

I have some pic that im going to post. When possable I will cut and paste Sanborn own words. These are pic of my current engine build and other pic that I have taken before.

[dirtmopar44]

Originally Posted by sanborn

To backtrack a little, when we got all our parts together and started measuring we found most of the oiling passages in the pump and block were .400" to .420" in diameter. This is OK for a lower RPM engine but for our application we felt the passages must be enlarged to insure oiling. After looking closely at everything we decided .500" minimum passages were possible. How much is that extra diameter worth, about 40% more flow. That's a bunch!.

We wanted the pickup tube to be larger, 5/8" because that's the suction side and that large a intake is necessary to feed a 1/2" line under pressure.

Next we looked at the pump, it is a Mellings High volume. The oiling passage is .420" out of the box. We enlarged this to .500". Be very careful when drilling by hand it's easy to get off and hang the drill bit(hard on the wrist). Try to do this in a drill press if possible. After the hole is enlarged, carefully blend the opening in the pump to the hole. Oil doesn't like to flow around sharp corners and a little blending eliminates any oil flow turbulence inside the pump. Make sure the main cap is drilled to 1/2in and it matches the hole in the block

When we bolted the pump to the rear main cap, we got a surprise-the two oil passages didn't meet at all! Look at the photo of the rear main cap to see how much we had to slot the cap to make the passages meet!

For Kevco stock location pan I tap the oil pump to 1/2npt and make a new tube and pick up from 1/2 pipe (.840ID) I also make new screen from 1x2rectangular tube 4in long. Best way to bend the 1/2 pipe if you dont have a bender is pack it with sand.cap off both ends,heat and bend to match old 3/8 pipe pick-up.

[dirtmopar44]

Originally Posted by sanborn

I neglected to add, we also drilled the passage in the rear cap to 1/2" as well. The larger hole in the rear cap matched to the vertical oiling hole in the block very nicely. That vertical hole intersects with a hortizontal hole that carries the oil out to the oil filter area. We drilled this hole out as well to 1/2". We then tapped the hole 3/8" NPT for a fitting to be attached to carry the oil to a remote filter(I will explain why later). Where the vertical hole and hortizontal hole intersect, look very closely to see they meet properly, most don't. And, oil doesn't like to flow smoothly around sharp corners so we got a rotary file with a 1/2" round head and carefully rounded the intersection of the vertical and horizontal hole. That makes the oil flow more smoothly.

OK, we have enlarged the lower hortizontal hole in the block, tapped it 3/8" for a hose fitting. Now, we need to do the same for the upper hortizontal hole. Here we got a surprise! On this block, the hole wasn't drilled all the way through. It was less than 3/8" in diameter at the very end. We repeated the procedure, drill the passage to 1/2" and tap to 3/8" NPT. We couldn't round this intersection because it is so far inside the block. So we had to leave it alone.

Here is what you need to modify block.

[dirtmopar44]

Originally Posted by sanborn

Next let's go to the main bearings. The passage from the main oiling galley(that's now fed from both ends) goes to the main bearings via a 1/4" drilled hole(some blocks are drilled 17/64"). We want to enlarge these holes to 9/32". Use a 12" long electricians drill and carefully drill from the main bearing area up to the main galley. This will do two things; enlarge the passage and ensure the holes are fully drilled. We have found holes not fully drilled many times. Some builders drill the front hole to 9/32" and the center three main bearing are drilled to 5/16". This is OK too. The passage in the rear main is large enough from the factory(5/16").

The next photo is very important! It shows how we modify the main bearings. We machine a slot in the mains approximately 1/2" in length and 1/4" in width. Why? The slot in the bearing now fits the slot in the block. And an oiling slot(versus a hole) in the bearing gives the rod bearing feed hole in the crankshaft more time to fully fill up with each revolution. For very high RPM engines(such as this) we enlarge the slot in the block to 5/8" in length and make the slot in the bearing the same length.

I also drill and tap 5/16 18 #1,2,3,4 oil holes that feed the cam bearings install 5/16 set screw with .100 hole drilled to restrict oil to cam bearings which adds even more oil to main and rod bearings

[jg30911]

hy thank you so much for the photos, i realy app. it, i run a ump dirt modifed,364ci,r3/w9 & it makes 728hp to the ground,497ft.lbs. tourque,real happy, real driveable,building a 367ci ritter block with p7 heads,later my freind,john, thanks again

[dirtmopar44]

I have lots of pictures if anybody wants a just say what thay want and i will post Mike

[sfr]

Thank you Sticky I got all season on my 360 and it still has the same oil psi and running strong SFR in Alaska

[mopardude318]

very cool thread! how do i view the pictures??

[Dick]

I believe that most or all of the pictures were lost over the many years since this thread was originated. The forum has had software upgrades and possibly server changes over the years which may have been responsible. I am not sure how we hosted those pictures either.

Some members may have saved some on their personal computers.

[340king]

Originally Posted by mopardude318

very cool thread! how do i view the pictures??

Can you see the photos that DirtMopar44 put up? If not, then either you don't have enough posts to view them or you have an issue with your browser.

[mopardude318]

oh, yea. i see them. I was only reading the first few pages and then made a mention of not being able to see the pictures...So i guess what DirtMopar44 did was quote everything and reattach the pics?

[Groundpounder18]

Originally Posted by dirtmopar44

I have lots of pictures if anybody wants a just say what thay want and i will post Mike

Do you do anything with the main galleys like bushing the lifter bores, tube & peen, or add a cross over tube?

[340king]

In addition to many of the things that are listed above, I use a pressure balance pipe to make the oil pressure at the front of the main oil galley the same as at the back. In theory and most likely in practice, this makes the front get the same feed pressure as the rear mains. This should eliminate any oil starvation to just the front mains. The first photo attached 0407R shows the tube in place. I have some in progress photos if anyone is interested.

I also take a long 1/2" drill bit (second photo 0410R)and open up all the oil feeds throughout the lower part of the block. I also take a die grinder to the rear main cap and the oil filter adapter area.

[dirtmopar44]

Here is were the oil from the remote filter enters the rear of the block. You have to do a little grinding on the inside of the china wall for the #8 bulk head.

[daryl2399]

anyone have the original photos or some that would help me out?

[skorp]

Bump for images

[JVMopar]

The original pictures seem to be long gone. See page 27 for pics I put up years ago.

[MoparBobG]

What would be a good oil choice for a 360 oval track engine, 7000 rpm max. Conventional or synthetic?

[340king]

That is a loaded question and will get you many different answers, none of them wrong, just different. Some of what is used is due to availability of oil types. I know many that run the Brad Penn oil and really like it. Some run Amsoil and really like it. Some run X oil and really like it.

So you will get a lot of answers and they are all right. About the only real question might be viscosity.

[skorp]

Sorry need 10 post to view pictures

[Dick]

Many of the pix in this thread were lost many years ago during software upgrades. Jacking the post count doesn't help and is contrary to forum rules.

[JVMopar]

Page 27 has some pictures I took of the mods I have done. They aren't the best pictures but you will get the idea. I didn't do all of his mods either. Just the ones that I could do with the rules at my track.

[Krooser]

Originally Posted by JVMopar

My photos are posted on page 27. They aren't that great but show what he's talking about.

I assume you replace that core plug under the rear main cap after drilling?