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#121
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I do like to use a plate top block oil from getting past the cam up into the lifter valley.
Please keep in mind the oiling mods were written for an all iron limited engine, wet sump, that consistently turned 8000RPM. If you are in a street class turning only 6000-6500RPM then not all the mods are absolutely necessary---but why not do them anyway. It keeps your engine oiled properly and the mods don't cost any money---just takes some of your time. |
#122
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To go way back on this thread, I'm drilling the oil lines in the block to .5". I have drilled the lines to the filter and am going to start on the top lines but have a problem. How do you drill the vertical line feeding the gallery? From the top does look like a good idea. If you drill from the bottom you have to drill through the plug (seperating the two oil lines) and then reinstall the plug. Also is .5" to big on some blocks? I'm getting a little scared. Thanks
PS: I found a 9/32" X 12"aircraft HSS drill! |
#123
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I need to have my block ready for the machine shop ASAP, but if the vertical line feeding right side oil gallery needs to be increased I will have to do that. It looks like it is only about 3/8" or maybe a bit bigger but the rear main and cam bearings are feed before this line. I am sure this has been done many times, if someone could let me know how they drilled this oil line that would be great. Or is that line okay smaller? Thanks you, thank you, thank you!
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#124
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1. The vertical oil passage is usually drilled to .405". And, the passages is usually pretty clean also. The best way to drill the passage is to punch out(from the top) the plug, drill the passage, clean very well, then install a new plug.
2. Some blocks have enough iron to allow drilling from the top. But, that passage must be cleaned very throughly after drilling. |
#125
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Thanks again Sanborn! Your info and experience is priceless.
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#126
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OK I have had this motor out and I'm freshning it up now and I findly got some pic of the duel pick up. What do yall think. I'm going to call Kevco and email it to them. JC
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#127
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More?????????????????. JC
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#128
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Just about the same as mine. Have you noticed an increase in your oil temp?
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#129
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Typical Oiling Modifications
"sanborn" - This thread is very interesting. I am new to the board and cannot view attached pictures or send PMs until I reach a minimum number of posts. Is it possible you could e-mail me or PM me your e-mail address so that I could ask you some questions about the oiling modifications and send me the pictures that you posted? Thanks for your time, John
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#130
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John, that post was written so long ago, I don't even have the photos on a disc. You can e-mail me anytime---sanborn@cafes.net. I will help anytime.
Can anyone else help John out with the photos? |
#131
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10 posts needed ???
Hey Duster W-2 I think all you need is 10 posts to view. Pick a thread and just boost your posts. I'm sure everyone would understand. What do you think ???
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#132
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Duel tube pick-up....
I'm not sure I like that double tube pick-up. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems too easy to suck air. You know kinda like sticking 2 straws in your soda and one is shorter than the other. You try to drink through both and the one gets to air and all of a sudden you can't get much soda up the other straw..... am I making any sense??? All I have ever used is a single tube.
DTJ |
#133
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I did all the oiling mods. I used a Melling M-72HV oil pump. Now I have 70 lbs of oil pressure at idle and pegs the gauge at around 4000 rpms. I think thats probably a bit much. Any suggestions.
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#134
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Is that hot or cold pressure readings? Hot readings should be approximately 45-50 lbs. at idle and 65-75 lbs. at 7000RPM.
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#135
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I ran it long enough to run in the cam. Coolant temp was at 160.
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#136
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Don't know all the particulars about your engine build; but, you may not need a HV pump. In addition, the pressure spring may be too strong and may need to be slightly weaker.
Running an engine in the shop doesn't build much oil temp---because the engine is not under load. The only way to know for sure is to run under load on the track. That is where the true oil pressure will be shown. |
#137
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So you think it is safe to take it out that way. Scheduled to go Saturday night.
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#138
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I it were mine, I would change the pressure relief spring in the pump to reduce oil pressure slightly. Mopar offers a high performance spring for stock pumps---it will fit your mellings pump. That spring will give about 70 lbs(hot) at 7000RPM. That is about ideal.
Just happened to think of something else---have you tried a different pressure gauge? They do go bad and can give either false low readings or false high readings! |
#139
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more oil mod questions
hey sanborn
i'm about to get started on a block to do what u have suggested and have a couple more questions ? mainly when u setup a stock block to oil from both ends are u using a braided line inside the lifter galley or a steel tube like brake or fuel tubing ? also where do u or how do u set up the tube that goes to the outher side for the left side oiling when u do run the tube inside ? do i find a T or redrill some where else ? this is a magnum headed motor that oils threw the push rods ! mech cam thanks david |
#140
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I used a large flared steel line(5/16" ID) purchased at the local NAPA parts store. I considered a braided steel hose, got cold feet when I thought about constant immersion in oil, heat, etc.
You can "T" off for feeding the left side galley anywhere from the right side( or from the steel feed line for that matter). The main thing to remember is the line to feed the left side needs to be a small brake line(3/16"). You don't need much oil to do the job. |
#141
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Sanborn - I was able to get my post count to 10 and view your posted pics. I also e-mailed you with some questions. However, my post count has been reduced to 1 today. I guess the short responses I gave were not acceptable and were removed. Anyway, I will be awaiting your reply to my questions. Thanks for your time. John
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#142
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I haven't received an e-mail as yet. Try sending again.
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#143
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Sanborn - I just sent you an e-mail. Please let me know if you received it. I used the e-mail address you posted.
Since I can't show my e-mail address in this thread until I reach 25 posts, I guess I am at a loss! Thanks, John |
#144
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sanborn - I don't know if you received my e-mail last night. Please let me know.
jduster340 (at) verizon (dot) net Thanks, John |
#145
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John, sorry I have not been able to respond for the past three days.
Try again------sanborn@cafes.net |
#146
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sanborn - I just sent you a 3rd e-mail to your address you indicated. If you do not receive it, I would try sending me a test e-mail at
jduster340 (at) verizon (dot) net Since I can't post e-mail addresses until my post count reaches 25, I am writing it like this. Just remove the spaces between the words and parenthesis and add the symbols where they are spelled out. If this does not work, I do not know what else to try. Either your server is not excepting e-mails from the verizon server or some other computer glitches are in place. Thanks, John |
#147
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sanborn - have you had any time to look at my e-mail I sent you, or should I just post the questions here? Let me know, thanks John
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#148
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Sorry, I have been fighting a kidney stone for the past eight days. So I have been in "happy land" and really haven't looked at the computer---much less turned it on.
Try me one more time: sanborn@cafes.net |
#149
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w-2 340 not enough posts
hi....im running a w2 headed solid lift roller cam 340.....last year we used stock 340 rods and ended up with bearing failure.....not the rods fault of course...we were turning 8000rpm....so ive got some way better rods this year.....just researching some oiling tips and tricks.I havent posted 10 times so i can't look at sanborns attachments.So iam going to post 10 times so i can....
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#150
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posts
im just posting to0 look at attachments
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