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  #1  
Old 12-04-2005, 09:52 PM
43 purestock 43 purestock is offline
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Smile Upper A arm mounting

Ok guys, I need some hints on this one. We are prepping the Dart for the upcoming season, and a rure change has permitted tubular upper arms. Our suspension is currently stock, and looking at the way the arm is mounted (side view) it is mounted inclined with the front being higher. We plan to build our own arms, but how should they be mounted? Inclined like the stockers, or more level? What efect will this have on the caster change, and does that even mater? Looks like the RH arm will be a little shorter, LH a little longer. shouldnt the RH be mounted a little lower? and the LH a little higher? We are also thinking of using D100 truck spindals, to get better brake action. Any pitfalls in this? Our track is a smooth and very fast paved 1/2 mile, winning lap times are in the low 20s, on street radials and 3400 lbs. Any tips are greatly apprieciated!!!
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:49 PM
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cageman cageman is offline
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I did the same thing a month ago, but I made it to be driven on the street, so You will want more upper control arm angle than I do, for camber gain, I would make a plate to mount it using the same angle, but it might need to be an inch taller, as the dodge truck spindles I think are two inches taller, so I would go an inch to get some camber gain. I used Afco 8 3/4 offset uppers, and they make a mount that has 2* anti dive that have two sets of holes to raise or lower the upper. I had 15 degrees angle in my rf and 11 degrees angle in my lf upper. That is how I set my ride heights after that, After you make a mounting plate or buy one, you will have toget your camber set, and then you will need to get the caster dialed in. I made the plate mount in line with the lower control arm pin center and the center of the front stru rod. In my chevele stub car I did this summer, I went off of the lower control arm bushings, as in the same paralel. That way it will not bind. That is what a couple chassis builders told me. I hope I explained it right, as I think I confused my self.

My super stock I redid the uppers this year as I didnt have any camber gain, and I recycled that car and used the uppers on my Coronet this fall. I have a picture (kind of) maybe you can see what I did.
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:56 PM
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cageman cageman is offline
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I dont think the truck spindles have any better brakes, just taller and well more weight. I ended up going with 88 gran fury spindles, but again I have a b body, never raced an A, I did put a b stub in an A tho.
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Old 12-05-2005, 01:39 PM
43 purestock 43 purestock is offline
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Thanks for the input so far! I have a 4 door B body that I saved from the crusher for the purpose of using the front stub, But I really need to just fix what we have for now, and change the stub later on. We are competitve with what we have now, and I dont have any T bars for the "B", but plenty for the "A" The "B" looks like the arms are mounted inclined front to rear about like the "A", does this have something to do with antidive? Can someone explain the antidive part of it? Sorry I sound like an idiot, the geometry is not something I have much experience with, but as always everbody else is getting faster, so we need to as well! Perhaps a clear picture of some properly mounted uppers would clear this up a little for me. Again thanks a million, you guys are awsome!
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Old 12-06-2005, 01:29 AM
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Anti dive as I know is when you hit the brakes, it pulls the car down, as in the cars resistence to stop and the weight of the car moving towards the front and pivoting on the front wheel. I might be wrong, I do not claim to be an expert.

I see that afco sells upper mounts with two degrees built in already, but I have seen cars that have played with this, But I have not driven them, just noticed them.

I duplicated the B stub when I made my mounts, the uppers I had were so close to the stock B body uppers, I had to use them. I just Laid out the angles on the car and tacked it on, ran the suspension up and down and checked caster camber 20 times. I was happy with it after I did the pass side, that I simply copied it to the drivers side, well, the frame wasnt in the same place as the pass side and it didnt quite line up, So I checked the stub I have outside, and it too was that way, you just cant tell untill you really look at it.

I was more than pleased with the B body front suspension. My very first race with the car I won my heat and was kickin A$$ in the feature when the rr tire blew, I had overlooked the inner wheel well lip and it cut the sidewall down. I was so pumped after that.

With that being said, I would mount the B front stub in and go out there confident that the work you are doing now is perfect, and not well kinda better, sorta right.

My theory is this;
There is a reason they used B bodies in Nascar competion, They are ideally setup for racing and the Engineering to go left was done years ago.
If they wanted and abody to race, Mopar wouldve done it, Oh wait they did, and it had a B body stub, years after the B body was gone.

Do what you want, Torsion bars are cheap, they dont wear out.
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