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#1
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R5 P7
anyone running one of these combos for drag racing/
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#2
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I think one of the problems has been the "generic" bellhousing pattern the R5 block has. Custom bellhousings are necessary unless you are using a standard transmission.
As a point of interest, the "generic" pattern is NASCARs attempt to get all the bellhousing patterns the same. I understand the Toyota and the new GM 09 engine use the "generic" pattern as well. The R5/P7 is a real piece! |
#3
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I will be running a clutchless g force with mine. Do you know if the bellhousings nascar uses are sfi approved or if they will pass tech at the drag strip? If not, who makes one?
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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If you want to wait a few months you may be suprised what will be available.
New blocks are in the works to use the P7 heads on standard small block type bottom end |
#6
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No kiddin!?!?! That would be great. I loved it when the made the W-9 for the standard block.
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#7
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I think the Nascar guys use Magnesium bellhousings---probably are not NHRA approved. The Nascar engines use the small triple disc clutches.
I have no idea who makes a bellhousing that would be approved---I guess you will need to "let your fingers do the walking"! The R5/P7 bellhousing pattern sort of looks like a GM without the center bolt. |
#8
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There is still no schedule locked up, and not even a prototype casted yet, so I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for one to establish. Undoubptly, when it comes out, it will be a good product, but the price is still wide open. And after it comes out, it should actually be available unlike those blocks that exist only in the pages of catalogs.
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#9
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what about making an adapter plate to bolt the standard block bellhousing to the r5 block?
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#10
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The problem is the new pattern is slightly smaller than the standard Mopar pattern.
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#11
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anyone have pics so I can compare them?
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#12
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They are being made...
I just bought a R5 block, there are adapter plates being made to fit to a mopar bell/trans.
Yes there is alot of, internet buzz about the XR blocks alot of it in emails and pm-s wondering if and when the general public will be able to get one without jumping though hoops to get it. I know of one well known builder in the northeast thats been waiting and waiting and if he dont have them the common guy wont get one either. I just bought a very nice new R5 block for $1500, got heads, new intake,new dry sump pan,new rods, motor plate for 1k. Got a new cam also. But yes I know some of the parts are alot more spendy..but they are out there and myself would rather go the exotic path. It may not be the easy way to go but at least it can be done now. |
#13
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We are still moving forward on our R5/P7 engine for our drag race application.
To refresh everyone's memory, we are building a 358" engine for use in a 1300 lb. FED. The basic engine was used last year in our dirt Super Late Model. We just made changes to adapt it for drag racing. Since our FED will be considered "Nostalgic", we will use Engler individual runner injectors, short "zoomie" headers and will be using methanol. Internal changes will be a longer duration roller with more lobe separation and higher compression pistons with a different ring stack. Frankly, I want the compression high enough(14.5) to reduce the temptation to begin using the stuff out of the "yellow jug"(nitro). That may come later, just not now. After chasing our tail for a while, we elected to stay with a battery ignition---to much hassle(cost, lots of fabrication) to change to a MSD 20 Mag. So we are going to use a Powermaster alternator to keep voltage high enough for good RPM capability. And the alternator won't require a heavy "Rock" battery either. Since we needed a new mid plate for the chassis anyway, we had one made that adapted the R5 pattern to a plate with a late model hemi pattern. This will allow us to use a powerglide for a hemi. We looked at the same thing for a SB GM-----but too many of the trans bolts overlapped the R5---looked too "blacksmithy" to me. That's where we are on our program---not everything is here yet---all it takes is money! But, we will get there---sometime! |
#14
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I know a couple of places that make adapter paltes for R5/mopar SB combo. We have such a project too, but it will go in to a street Duster. I would have gone with a manual, but the one who pays the bills wants a 904.
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#15
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Sanborn, who's going to flow your injection unit once you've got all the pieces together? The Indy system looks a lot like one of Englers systems, Indy uses all Enderly nozzles, barrel valve, shutoff, and pump. I changed over to Kinsler injectors and pill cans.
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#16
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SanBorn just dont let DWC anywerenear that digger!!! that P7 will Destroy POWERGLIDES.
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#17
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One of the primary reasons we wanted to work with Engler is their reputation for working with sprint car teams. And, since they are developing the Toyota injector---our Mopar P7 will be real close.
Before we pick up the injector, Tim Engler wants Jeff to spend a day with him on the flow bench with our injectors. And, if we must, we can dyno our engine on his in-house Superflow. Regarding the powerglide---the unit will be aftermarket totally---and tested at PTC before installation. I am certainly out of my element when it comes to powerglides. |
#18
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I agree with going to Engler, they really know their stuff. If you are going to use a tranny brake, get one of Ron's converter helpers, it does make a difference on how the car launches. I'm sure the altered will leave the same way the FED did, foot to the floor, 5600 rpm, first flash of color, let go of the button!
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#19
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Is the Generic patter a chev patter where I could run a glide with the R5 setup?
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#20
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No it's not.
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#21
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The "generic" bellhousing pattern is different from a SB GM, Ford or Mopar. There are adapter plates available to adapt the R5 block to a GM pattern. I don't like them because a couple of bolts don't stagger enough and require "oval" elongating some holes in the bellhousing to bolt up. This produces a less than optimum clamping of the block/bellhousing. We used a adapter plate for a R5 to a BB Mopar pattern. This allowed for full staggering of the bolts and provide a better clamping action of the block/bellhousing.
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#22
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What do you have it in? Im also looking for pics and any help. Whose adapter did you use?
copeters @hotmail.com any info here. |
#23
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We have our R5/P7 combo in a nostalgia, front engine dragster. So far, we are very pleased with the results.
The "adapter" is a 3/8" thick plate, with both the BB Mopar and the R5 pattern in the plate. The plate acts as both an adapter and a chassis mid plate. I wanted the 3/8" plate so the plate could be bolted to the block using flat head, socket head cap screws----and present a flat surface to the face of the bellhousing. The bolt holes for the bellhousing are "Heli-Coiled" ---another reason for the thickness. The plate also mounts our starter. The plate is machined to 1/4" thckness inside the bellhousing for flywheel clearance. The adapter plate was done by a company in NC. I will get the info on them and post it later. They did it on a CNC Bridgeport----and it fit perfectly! Not cheap, but worth it! |
#24
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Sorry, it took so long to get your info, was called out of town.
The plate adapter was done by Kowalsky Racing Engines, phone # is 434/821-6107. Their work was excellent. |
#25
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I see the occasional adapter plate popping up on ebay once in awhile too.
No idea who makes them or how the quality is , but I think this is going to be a pretty popular combination before too long. It can't be any harder than scaring up stuff for an R-3 / W-9. Sure............ the trans is a bolt on. Not much else is. |
#26
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I cant figure out the flexplate? The motor I have found has a chevy pattern, Can I call someone up and they know what I need and make it? I assume its 100% custom, and nothing Chevy off the shelf would work?
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#27
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Bop over to www.moparts.com and hit the unlawfl's race only forum on there.
Do a search for R5/P7 and you will find a couple guys who have done this. Stay away from Rick Liuzzo ............ his stock has gone south in the community and having been personally ripped off by him , I can speak volumes about his lack of character. |
#28
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Let me make a suggestion-----. Get your adapter plate first. Know what starter the adapter is for, and what ring gear tooth count is required. Then you know what flex plate is required.
A standard GM flex plate will work (with a GM crank pattern)---if you have the correct starter. Suggestion #2----Don't know what your plans are for the engine or what RPM you will turn. But if you plan 10K runs---don't buy the stamped steel flexplate, they won't take the RPMs. Buy a good flexplate! |
#29
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Where do I find a good one?
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#30
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Quote:
Thanks........ |
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